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where to position electrics for cooker hood
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drummer_666
Posts: 984 Forumite
Hi,
i'm currently digging out the channels for the electric cables in my kitchen
I'm not sure where I can position the socket for the cooker hood...
I was going to put it above the hood bit next to the chimney, with this being stainless steel (to match the hood, other sockets will be white) but thought it would be better if the socket isn't on show.
Can it go inside the chimney? Or is that space taken up with the ducting? I don't have the cooker hood yet
I need a fused spur for the cooker, do I also need one for the cooker hood?
If so I figure this can sit next to the cooker spur (which is below the cooker hood)
thank you
i'm currently digging out the channels for the electric cables in my kitchen
I'm not sure where I can position the socket for the cooker hood...
I was going to put it above the hood bit next to the chimney, with this being stainless steel (to match the hood, other sockets will be white) but thought it would be better if the socket isn't on show.
Can it go inside the chimney? Or is that space taken up with the ducting? I don't have the cooker hood yet
I need a fused spur for the cooker, do I also need one for the cooker hood?
If so I figure this can sit next to the cooker spur (which is below the cooker hood)
thank you
0
Comments
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How about the top rear of the kitchen units near the hood.
Surely it will then only be visible to a very tall person from the other side of the room.
Or at the top corner of the inside of the nearest cupboard with a small hole for the flex. You would need to remove the plug, fed the flex through and then attach the plug again.
You would need to check whether that meets the current regulations. (no pun intended).0 -
Ok sorry to be the bearer of bad news but electrics in a kitchen must be done by a part p reg electrician it is not a diy thing, by all means channel the walls to save some money but you can't do the electrics, so really you should be speaking to the sparkie to see where the best place for the spur is, no it doesn't go inside the metal hood it's got a fuse in there for a reason & therefore needs to be excessable.I'm only here while I wait for Corrie to start.
You get no BS from me & if I think you are wrong I WILL tell you.0 -
if I put it in a kitchen wall unit then there will be the electrical cable across the wall tho?
i haven't got the cooker hood yet, but i imagine it has a standard 3 pin plug attached to it, which needs to be plugged into a standard socket?
this is what my original idea is, but then I thought would that look bad with the socket visible (even if it is stainless steel?)0 -
southcoastrgi wrote: »Ok sorry to be the bearer of bad news but electrics in a kitchen must be done by a part p reg electrician it is not a diy thing, by all means channel the walls to save some money but you can't do the electrics, so really you should be speaking to the sparkie to see where the best place for the spur is, no it doesn't go inside the metal hood it's got a fuse in there for a reason & therefore needs to be excessable.
hey, i'm getting the electrics done by a registered sparky, i'm just doing the channeling and screwing the boxes on to save some money0 -
Cooker hoods that I've seen don't have 3-pin plugs, merely cable and bare wire, the expectation being that they are hard-wired to an isolator switch, perhaps via a channel to the rear...0
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drummer_666 wrote: »if I put it in a kitchen wall unit then there will be the electrical cable across the wall tho?..
As per googler above, I cannot see any reason why you cannot chase a channel into the wall to take a cable from an isolating switch to the cooker hood.
Even if the hood comes with a flex and plug, there is no reason I know of why that can't be replaced with a suitable cable and switch.
You can hide the isolator switch somewhere convenient.
Your sparky should be able to advise you.0 -
hmmm in that case, would you recommend having the isolator switch (fcu?) down to the right of oven where i could also have the cooker switch?
would i just channel a small horizontal line across to mid of the chimney that meets the vertical channel0 -
Putting the isolator where you want it makes sense, your sparkie should run T&E up through the channel to where it meets the cable entry point on the hood and hard wire the T&E to the hood flex with a connector block or similar.
Won't you need either the hood or the fitting instructions for it to determine where the entry point is, and hence where you make the channel?0 -
If it's any help when I did mine I have a socket on the same wall as the hood. The isolator is located next to the socket and a cable runs in a channel (at right angles) to feed a connection socket hidden inside the chimney cowl.
Sparky agreed with the layout, installed and signed off on it.0 -
But like I said your sparkie should be advising you on this, I have no prob with you doing the channeling & fixing the boxes to save money, but your sparkie should be telling you where he wants everything.
Have you got the hob yet ? Is it gas ? Because if it is gas then the installation instructions will tell you the min height for the hood & if you don't know that measurement then you can't decide where to put the spur.I'm only here while I wait for Corrie to start.
You get no BS from me & if I think you are wrong I WILL tell you.0
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