Bindweed, anyone dug down deep?

cyclonebri1

Leif wrote: »

I don't know. Columbine normally (always ?) refers to flowers in the genus Aquilegia, which are quite different. Are you thinking about Convolvulus? As pointed out earlier, Convolvulus arvensis is field bindweed, but I am sure many people use the term Convolvulus for both species.

Yes I did mean Convolvulus, knew it started with a C :o:o:o:o cheers

DaftyDuck

Leif wrote: »

I've learnt something new.

Hey, I sounded too certain in that post... I was inebre.. ineber.. in... need of sleep at the time

I was making a supposition... glyphosate kills plants. If it kills part of the plant before getting to the root of the problem (hah), I can see how it wouldn't work as well. You'd kill it off too quickly, as it were. (Could be the same with the Nippon ant killers). Makes sense, but I'm not stating it as a fact. However, I have always succeeded with the dilute - it - yourself stuff as diluted as recommended for spraying (so more dilute than for watering cans) and it has killed every damn green thing I have shoved at it!

Leif

DaftyDuck wrote: »

Hey, I sounded too certain in that post... I was inebre.. ineber.. in... need of sleep at the time

I was making a supposition... glyphosate kills plants. If it kills part of the plant before getting to the root of the problem (hah), I can see how it wouldn't work as well. You'd kill it off too quickly, as it were. (Could be the same with the Nippon ant killers). Makes sense, but I'm not stating it as a fact. However, I have always succeeded with the dilute - it - yourself stuff as diluted as recommended for spraying (so more dilute than for watering cans) and it has killed every damn green thing I have shoved at it!

Aha, well I will dilute it anyway, why waste money.

cyclonebri1

DaftyDuck wrote: »

Hey, I sounded too certain in that post... I was inebre.. ineber.. in... need of sleep at the time

I was making a supposition... glyphosate kills plants. If it kills part of the plant before getting to the root of the problem (hah), I can see how it wouldn't work as well. You'd kill it off too quickly, as it were. (Could be the same with the Nippon ant killers). Makes sense, but I'm not stating it as a fact. However, I have always succeeded with the dilute - it - yourself stuff as diluted as recommended for spraying (so more dilute than for watering cans) and it has killed every damn green thing I have shoved at it!

Ok, I'm not pisced but I'll reply anyway

I have used the method of making a paste out of the sachet stuff to treat bindweed where it can be targeted and that is dam difficult at times, but recently I built a new conservatory and slated around it to try to stop slug invasion.

I got a serious invasion of bindweed in the form of a clump mof maybe 30 stems over a sqr mtr, coming from the hedge, treated them with roundup as per instruction when 9 " tall.
Sod all effect after 2 weeks. Did the direct route and 2 days later all the shoots , which were now 12" tall, wilted and have not come back. R;);)oute 1 for me in the future.

cyclonebri1

DaftyDuck wrote: »

Hey, I sounded too certain in that post... I was inebre.. ineber.. in... need of sleep at the time

I was making a supposition... glyphosate kills plants. If it kills part of the plant before getting to the root of the problem (hah), I can see how it wouldn't work as well. You'd kill it off too quickly, as it were. (Could be the same with the Nippon ant killers). Makes sense, but I'm not stating it as a fact. However, I have always succeeded with the dilute - it - yourself stuff as diluted as recommended for spraying (so more dilute than for watering cans) and it has killed every damn green thing I have shoved at it!

The dilution rate doesn't really come into if you are assuming the sprayer is the cheaper alternative.

Just looked at the instructions on the back of a bottle of Doff Concentrated Glyphosate Weedkiller, (concentrated my bacxkside, it's only 80gm/ltr)

Watering can=60ml/5ltr treats 25sq mtr
Sprayer =100 " " 40 " "

By my quick calc that means the watering can method works at a rate of 2.4 ml per sq mtr and the sprayer requires a rate of 2.5, slightly less economic ;)

Too nerdy by far, just get stronger and treat once rather than !!!!! footing about all year..

Can't believe the swear filter doesn't allow pus!y footing, dear oh dear, we aren't children on here.:mad::A

bossymoo

Hi all

I have the hedge bindweed. Not in my garden, as i do weed regular, but right outside on the embankment. There are trees and shrubs looking almost strangled by this stuff, so it's clearly huge. Above and below ground.

I'd like to hold it back from entering my garden. Can I use the jar method? It's not a public right of way, no one ever goes out there, I have an access gate but none of my neighbours have (it's sort of within our boundaries).

Does it die down in winter? Will I be better waiting and getting the new growth in spring? It's not hurting anything at the moment...

Leif

bossymoo wrote: »

Hi all

I have the hedge bindweed. Not in my garden, as i do weed regular, but right outside on the embankment. There are trees and shrubs looking almost strangled by this stuff, so it's clearly huge. Above and below ground.

I'd like to hold it back from entering my garden. Can I use the jar method? It's not a public right of way, no one ever goes out there, I have an access gate but none of my neighbours have (it's sort of within our boundaries).

Does it die down in winter? Will I be better waiting and getting the new growth in spring? It's not hurting anything at the moment...

The above ground growth dies back, but the huge root system will overwinter. Yes use the jar method. I would start ASAP. Apparently it is best to attack it in the autumn, something to do with the way it grows.

Mojisola

Leif wrote: »

The above ground growth dies back, but the huge root system will overwinter. Yes use the jar method. I would start ASAP. Apparently it is best to attack it in the autumn, something to do with the way it grows.

Deciduous plants pull more nutrients down into the roots during the autumn to act as a store cupboard so proportionally more of a translocated weedkiller will get taken into the root system.

Leif

Mojisola wrote: »

Deciduous plants pull more nutrients down into the roots during the autumn to act as a store cupboard so proportionally more of a translocated weedkiller will get taken into the root system.

Makes sense.

bossymoo

Ooh great. Really wet here today, but might venture out into the wilderness this weekend with a few strategically placed jars.

Thanks for the help!