What's the cheapest way to run my heating?

ListysDad

The Worcester Bosch FW100 compensator is about £175. It does take some setting up but the results are superb.

Avoriaz

ListysDad wrote: »

The Worcester Bosch FW100 compensator is about £175. It does take some setting up but the results are superb.

Thanks for your posts.:beer:

An interesting product. I knew these things existed but didn't know how much they cost.

I'm not sure how keen the OP will be to buy one as he wants to keep his heating costs as low as possible, not spend money on a device that will increase comfort levels but also probably put his costs up.

It would be good if he would come back and comment.

spinningsheep

I have posted a similar question before now and from advice on here but more from experience I can say 100% there is no 1 size fits all answer. There are so many variables least the insulation degree on the property, outside temp etc etc. In the "average" home the answer is of course no it would not be cheaper. In any house of course it would be more comfortable and convenient to keep the house warm 24/7. I know I am wasting heat any time my heating is on, I live in a solid wall 1900 house, cannot have cavity insulation as there is no cavity to insulate, but I make the trade off between cost and comfort. I don't work all day and all week to be cold and miserable at home. To the OP (if they're still about!) turn on your heating one day when the weather cools so you can think about using the CH again. Measure time wise how long it takes to heat the main rooms of the house to the required level. This is your warm up time. Turn off, and see how long it takes to cool down. This is your cool down time. Of course these times will never be the same all the time, as winter kicks in you may need to adjust the times as required, as the warm up time will be longer and the cool down time faster, depending on the difference between the outside and inside temps. Set your TRV in the lounge to full, same with any rooms with small kids or elderly occupants. Most people like a cooler "aired" bedroom, so set the TRV to about 2 or 3, generally this will give a temp of about 16-18 give or take. Your wireless thermostat should go in the hallway or an area of the house where it's cooler, and there is no TRV on the radiator. On the boiler, as it is condensing set the main radiator temperature control (if there are separate ones for the heating and water) to about 60, this will mean the water returning to the boiler will be below 55 degrees and the boiler will operate in condensing mode for as long as possible, thus being most EFFICIENT. If you do not have a combi boiler (where the water is heated as the water flows to the taps on demand) you will have a water cylinder, and probably just one temperature control on the boiler, it is important to set this HIGHER than 65 degrees, same with the thermostat on the cylinder itself, as this prevents Legionella bacteria growing which can cause Legionnaires disease. You will lose SOME efficiency of the boiler but this is a small price to pay for the lack of health risk. If you want faster warm up times, turn the temperature of the boiler up, but even though the house will warm up faster, you lose the efficiency of the condensing boiler, as it won't be condensing (70% efficiency maybe as opposed to 90% or more when condensing). By doing this, my gas DD has gone from £120 per month with our old Glowworm standard efficiency boiler, to £40 with our new condensing one. When it gets really cold and we know we will be at home for a longer period, say weekends, we keep it on all day but on a lower temperature, keeps the house more comfortable, we know this isn't cheaper, just more comfortable.

Like I say, it's horses for courses but as one poster said unless you live in a super insulated eco house then no it most definately is not cheaper to keep it on 24/7.

ListysDad

Avoriaz wrote: »

Thanks for your posts.:beer:

An interesting product. I knew these things existed but didn't know how much they cost.

I'm not sure how keen the OP will be to buy one as he wants to keep his heating costs as low as possible, not spend money on a device that will increase comfort levels but also probably put his costs up.

It would be good if he would come back and comment.

You possibly misunderstand. These things SAVE money big style. You only burn what is needed at the time rather then setting up for a worst case scenario continually wasting energy though overshoot.

I have heard of savings of over 30%.

Spinningsheep - what you describe is what a compensator optimizer does automatically!

spinningsheep

Yes ListysDad I know but for those who rent their property such as myself it's not an attractive option to spend nearly £200 on such equipment. Plus it's hardly a hardship for me to twiddle a knob on the boiler on the kitchen wall as I walk past, same goes for the thermostat.

ListysDad

spinningsheep wrote: »

Yes ListysDad I know but for those who rent their property such as myself it's not an attractive option to spend nearly £200 on such equipment. Plus it's hardly a hardship for me to twiddle a knob on the boiler on the kitchen wall as I walk past, same goes for the thermostat.

If you rent the place why are you able to walk past and twiddle? Don't answer that I'm not interested.

Boiler manufacturers spend millions on research to enable their precision pieces of kit to perform at their best and 'twiddlers' like you end up ruining them.

Please don't come on here in a couple of years and moan about how you boiler is now screwed.

spinningsheep

ListysDad, I have only just spotted this reply. I find a bit strange.

"how am I able to twiddle with the boiler and thermostat if it is rented?"

Quite simply, I turn the dial ? Not quite sure how the rented part fits in, i'm not aware of any tenancy that would forbid you changing the thermostat temperature! Bizarre.

Secondly, these "precision pieces of kit" have a temperature control for a reason, so you can ajust it! I fail to see how this will cause a boiler to screw up? Please elaborate