Relocating a radiator

Leif

A.Penny.Saved wrote: »

I don't want a tap on the front of my property and there is a chance that it could freeze in extremely cold weather if the heating is off over night.

You could always fit an insulated lockable cover. That is what I have on my drain cocks. I'm pretty sure these short lengths of copper pipes were buried in cement without protection but that is a side issue.

southcoastrgi

A.Penny.Saved wrote: »

I just don't want a tap outside and especially on the front. In my area, some idiot could even try fooling around with it and draining the system because it's so exposed.


All of them, ground and first floor. The loft as well but there is no heating pipes up there, only a cold water pipe to the shower which was done some time back.

each to their own but i've never heard of someone vandalising a drain c.ock at low level, insulate the pipes at ground level is a good idea, but the ones on the first floor don't need it as any heat that escapes goes to help the upstairs rooms so it's not wasted

Ruski

Canucklehead wrote: »

Hi.

With everything pre-piped, and just the final coupling to do, I would.

Let system pressure out via existing rad valve. No need to drain whole system.

Use a speedfit coupling.

Cut the pipe with a cutter to give a smooth end of pipe.

Push into coupling. (don't forget a liner if you are using plastic)

Refill system.


GSR.

Am I right CH that this is done one pipe at a time otherwise you'll loose the vacuum??

Russ

DVardysShadow

MagicCats wrote: »

The radiator will be getting moved to the middle of the wall to the left of it. For some reason the previous owner moved it from under the window to its current position. It means one of the longest, main walls is unusable.

That means that somewhere a pipe route to the proposed position will already be available even if the piping has gone?

cyclonebri1

I always fit a stop !!!! to the inside as well as the 1 outside, that way the inner 1 can be turned off and the outer drained to ensure protection from freezing over winter.
It also gives protection from vandalism when off on hols etc.

Someone posted about only having to isolate or drain the 1 rad.
What was said isn't quite true, this being an upper floor rad all water at the same level as the pipes will empty back which is why I find it best to lock down all rads on the top floor in this case, to reduce the amount of water lost

Canucklehead

Ruski wrote: »

Am I right CH that this is done one pipe at a time otherwise you'll loose the vacuum??

Russ

Yes.


@keystone... No.

@magicat. See post 4. From the rad valve on the rad you are moving. Pressure is all you need to let go.

GSR.

MagicCats

DVardysShadow wrote: »

That means that somewhere a pipe route to the proposed position will already be available even if the piping has gone?

That's what I thought, but I can't see it. I'm going to remove the piece of floor boarding right next to the window in case there's a space for them to run that I'm missing.

I'm assuming it's been under the window as there's two holes in the board about the right width apart for pipes.

Ruski

Canucklehead wrote: »

Yes.

Thankyou - never tried it meself but may give it a go next time..... and there's no risk of damage!!!!

Canucklehead wrote: »

@keystone... No.

:rotfl:
Made my day!

keystone

Canucklehead wrote: »

@keystone... No.

Eh?

Ruski wrote: »

:rotfl: Made my day!

and why would that be?

Cheers

keystone

@ Ruski

Am still waiting to hear why you found that so hilarious. You've been back at least once since I posted the question.

TIA.