Relocating a radiator

MagicCats

I have a bedroom radiator I wish to relocate. Currently the flooring is up and so is some of the chipboard flooring so access is simple. I have a combi boiler and the radiator is isolated.

Is it a case of cutting the power to the combi and using freeze spray on the pipes so I can cut in and re-join? Or do I have to drain it all down? The only other issue is the location of the joists. From what I can see there is no gap next to the wall to run them so I may have to drill holes in the centre of the joists.

My plan is to make up the new piping, get it all in place so it's just a case of make a cut and rejoining there and then. Here's some pics:

Current position



Proposed Position


Pipe work and floor joists


The joists appear to run all the way to the wall where the window is so I can't lay the pipe at 90 degree to the joists without drilling through them.

cyclonebri1

Is that 10mm microbore pipe or 15mm? looks like 10mm from the 1st pict.

If so, a 10mm hole will not affect the structure so drill away.

Holes near the wall/support of the joist have least affect.

Freezing pipes needs a degree of confidence and ability, and without offence if you have to ask about it, I don't think you have it.

As you intimated, drain the system, (not much water in a combi system). Shut down all the rads noting the setting of each lockshield valve and do the work

A.Penny.Saved

Can you make it a bit clearer where the new radiator is to be located in relation to the old rad? Which wall in relation to it's current location? Left/Right adjacent or opposite?

You cannot solder frozen pipes with water in them because it won't heat up enough and the frozen water would melt. If some distance away then you might be able to do it, but I don't think that I would risk it.

You might have to go back further than the current radiator to make a joint.

ATM it's all a bit confusing knowing where everything is located.

Canucklehead

Hi.

With everything pre-piped, and just the final coupling to do, I would.

Let system pressure out via existing rad valve. No need to drain whole system.

Use a speedfit coupling.

Cut the pipe with a cutter to give a smooth end of pipe.

Push into coupling. (don't forget a liner if you are using plastic)

Refill system.


GSR.

MagicCats

A.Penny.Saved wrote: »

Can you make it a bit clearer where the new radiator is to be located in relation to the old rad? Which wall in relation to it's current location? Left/Right adjacent or opposite?

You cannot solder frozen pipes with water in them because it won't heat up enough and the frozen water would melt. If some distance away then you might be able to do it, but I don't think that I would risk it.

You might have to go back further than the current radiator to make a joint.

ATM it's all a bit confusing knowing where everything is located.

The radiator will be getting moved to the middle of the wall to the left of it. For some reason the previous owner moved it from under the window to its current position. It means one of the longest, main walls is unusable.

MagicCats

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

Is that 10mm microbore pipe or 15mm? looks like 10mm from the 1st pict.

If so, a 10mm hole will not affect the structure so drill away.

Holes near the wall/support of the joist have least affect.

Freezing pipes needs a degree of confidence and ability, and without offence if you have to ask about it, I don't think you have it.

As you intimated, drain the system, (not much water in a combi system). Shut down all the rads noting the setting of each lockshield valve and do the work

I think they are 10mm. You're right I don't have any experience of this sort of work

Where's the best place to drain it from?

I know some people will cringe by my asking for advice...However, whilst I've not done much plumbing I am pretty handy; I can solder etc and know how to use tools having been an aircraft engineer. As long as I know what to do I can generally do it.

Quodos to plumber though, god only knows how they do whole systems! :T

A.Penny.Saved

MagicCats wrote: »

The radiator will be getting moved to the middle of the wall to the left of it. For some reason the previous owner moved it from under the window to its current position. It means one of the longest, main walls is unusable.

Ah thanks, now I can visualize where it is better.

MagicCats wrote: »

I think they are 10mm. You're right I don't have any experience of this sort of work

Where's the best place to drain it from?

I know some people will cringe by my asking for advice...However, whilst I've not done much plumbing I am pretty handy; I can solder etc and know how to use tools having been an aircraft engineer. As long as I know what to do I can generally do it.

If your draining the whole system, there is sometimes a valve at the lowest point, it could even be outside if a pipe goes through the wall. ATM I have a pipe that goes through the wall as a way to drain the system, that has to go. There are currently two other drain points which have a square nut and hose connectors. A hosepipe would need to be pushed onto the hose connector and the valve opened so the water can drain away to the outside somewhere. Otherwise there could be a drain on the boiler, if so then your on your own finding it It might be worth looking for a manual. You might be able to see a small pipe that comes from the boiler location leading outside.

You will need a way to refill the system with an inhibitor, there are fillers which can be fitted to the bleed valves, unscrewing them and then screwing into the bleed valve. Then pouring the fluid into a radiator before the heating system is refilled. It depends upon your rads what is most suitable.

Quodos to plumber though, god only knows how they do whole systems! :T

I'm re-fitting my heating system because of the lousy job someone did on it, making it impossible to insulate. Pipes not kept in the centre of the joist holes but jammed tightly against them. I'm also replacing five radiators.

southcoastrgi

A.Penny.Saved wrote: »

ATM I have a pipe that goes through the wall as a way to drain the system, that has to go. I'm re-fitting my heating system because of the lousy job someone did on it, making it impossible to insulate.

if i'm doing a new heating system i always try & put a pipe through the wall to outide with a drain off on it, it makes it much easier to drain & saves having a hose pipe trailing through the house on the customers nice carpets, so why has yours got to go ?

which pipes are you trying to insulate ? ground floor, 1st floor, loft ?

southcoastrgi

MagicCats wrote: »

Quodos to plumber though, god only knows how they do whole systems! :T

On behalf of the other plumbing trades on here i thank you.

keystone

Looks like 15mm to me in the top pic - maybe its my eyesight.

Do not even consider using one of those cheapo freezing kits from the sheds. They don't work and you will have water everywhere. The only reliable way of freezing is to use the proper piece of kit and they cost £00s. You might just as well do it live which is possible with minimal spillage but I've only ever done it on the ground floor - would never ever consider it for an upper floor because it is risky.

Drain down only as far as is necessary to drop the level of water in the system below the lowest point at which you want to work. Its a pressurised system so you won't have any worry about subsequent airlocks when you refill. Don't foget the extra inhibitor when you do refill.

Cardinal rule - never ever drill a joist for pipes, cables yes - pipes no. Notch joists for pipes always following the notch depth to joist depth rules and taking account of the span as to where you actually put the notches. If floorboards already up then its a non problem.

Make your connections as described by CH. Use plastic pipe by all means for the bits you can't see when floorboards back down and converted to copper for the bits you can.

Its a doddle this job TBH.

Best of luck with it.

Cheers

A.Penny.Saved

keithgillyon wrote: »

if i'm doing a new heating system i always try & put a pipe through the wall to outide with a drain off on it, it makes it much easier to drain & saves having a hose pipe trailing through the house on the customers nice carpets, so why has yours got to go ?

I don't want a tap on the front of my property and there is a chance that it could freeze in extremely cold weather if the heating is off over night.

Maybe if the hosepipe is dirty or nothing is put down to lay it on. I've never had a problem with the other taps on the two radiators in the lounge and kitchen when using a hose pipe.

I just don't want a tap outside and especially on the front. In my area, some idiot could even try fooling around with it and draining the system because it's so exposed.

which pipes are you trying to insulate ? ground floor, 1st floor, loft ?

All of them, ground and first floor. The loft as well but there is no heating pipes up there, only a cold water pipe to the shower which was done some time back.