Audi A4 HELL - Please help

jbna4

mildred1978 wrote: »

Hope you told your insurers about the mod, else that's another expensive piece of paper that's actually not worth anything.

Yes i have the correct insurance, as its the same insurance i had for my previous car that was traded in as part ex.... this also bring me on to say that the sales manager said to me that i would only normaly be asked by them to pay half of the bill towards the coil pack repair if my old car hadnt have cost them £300.00 to return to standard... this amount stated keeps changing. Something is not sitting right here.... Why would they be paying the bill of the coil packs in the first place?

jbna4

Have also spoke with waranty company sep to going through the garage i bought it from... they said that the garage had rang then earlier and said my car was modified there for they were not going to look into the problem. They then told me i will have paid for they car stripped down only then would they consider the bill, after reading the post on here i believe the cost of the repair would be greater than what there max. payout would be.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

jbna4 wrote: »

YES, i checked it again!!!! I have recieved feedback from citizens advice who have passed this on to Trading Standards and have given me advice how to contact the credit company too.....

was the car serviced upon purchase? them audi's do use alot of oil!.

trouble is when the oil is run low, by the time the light comes on its pretty much game over and damage already done.

if it was serviced when you purchased then you could possibly argue that the garage failed to either to it correctly OR didnt didnt do the service at all and end result is this failure and you can return it back under the sales of good act and dismiss their finding of your mods and overfill.

Lum

atrixblue.-MFR-. wrote: »

fitted correctly, and spaced away from the MAF, there should be no problem in fitting a BOV, providing the original is blanked off and not still connected, oh the problems if thats the case!!.

Curious on this one. My understanding of the problem is that it is the mismatch in amount of air in the system vs how much air the ECU thinks is in the system, that causes the problem, rather than incorrect readings caused by you mucking about with the air flow in the vicinity of the MAF (Usually see that one on Skylines with aftermarket air filters installed too close to the MAF).

Really though, dump valves are just pointless at best and bad news at worse unless you really know what you're doing and have a heavily modified engine.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

Lum wrote: »

Curious on this one. My understanding of the problem is that it is the mismatch in amount of air in the system vs how much air the ECU thinks is in the system, that causes the problem, rather than incorrect readings caused by you mucking about with the air flow in the vicinity of the MAF (Usually see that one on Skylines with aftermarket air filters installed too close to the MAF).

Really though, dump valves are just pointless at best and bad news at worse unless you really know what you're doing and have a heavily modified engine.

hard to explain, basically ive seen alot of stupid fitments of BOVS, especially on the 1.8T vw golf and audi TT, where the BOV is just a few inches away from the mass meter in the original intake pipe and not blanked off the original BOV and used a propper samco hose kit wich has the correct spacer and fitement for the BOV's and mass meter. for some reason a well placed BOV wont affect the mass meter ive also seen alot of BOVS put in and not set correctly, some have a screw in them to adjust the inner spring tighness to release the pressure propperly and timed correclty wont pose any problems. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqQR5WUF9lc like this, i know some early forge bovs have adjustable spring in them always avoid a diaphram BOV.

i see alot of people think these things are plug and play and whilst some are specific to certain car makes and models designed for that engine and are plug and play, most cheap ones are horrid and need carefull setup.

gregpot2000

atrixblue.-MFR-. wrote: »

was the car serviced upon purchase? them audi's do use alot of oil!.

trouble is when the oil is run low, by the time the light comes on its pretty much game over and damage already done.

if it was serviced when you purchased then you could possibly argue that the garage failed to either to it correctly OR didnt didnt do the service at all and end result is this failure and you can return it back under the sales of good act and dismiss their finding of your mods and overfill.

Not strictly true in this instance, The A4 actually has an oil-top light as well (yellow warning and picture) and also oil-top up sensor malfunction light.

There is no reason you should actually ever have to check the dip-stick at all, as the display tells you when to put Oil in.....whether it would be wise to put all your faith in an electronic sensor is another matter though!

fivetide

Lum wrote: »

Curious on this one. My understanding of the problem is that it is the mismatch in amount of air in the system vs how much air the ECU thinks is in the system, that causes the problem, rather than incorrect readings caused by you mucking about with the air flow in the vicinity of the MAF (Usually see that one on Skylines with aftermarket air filters installed too close to the MAF).

Really though, dump valves are just pointless at best and bad news at worse unless you really know what you're doing and have a heavily modified engine.

This is certianly the thinking with Subarus which have a recirculating dump valve putting the pressure back into the system. Venting to atmosphere takes place after all the air calculations are done so it can lead to over fuelling.

Bad in Subarus as you can get bore wash and throw a piston. To be done right it needs to be properly set up.

No idea on VAG cars though.

5t.

Lum

My experience is more with Subarus, but I figured this would apply to any car with a MAF sensor and recirc setup, which is to say most turbo cars these days.

On my car you get the opposite effect as there's no dump valve at all, so you get that wonderful pigeon noise as the air is forced back up the pipe, past the MAF in the wrong direction and back out of the air filter. This momentarily makes the car run rich and in the right circumstances dumps unburnt fuel into the exhaust where it ignites and scares tailgaters into backing off.

Indout96

atrixblue.-MFR-. wrote: »

it doesnt affect performance. its just and engine bay dress up that goes tchshhh when changing gear.

its a mod but i doubt very much would render his policy void.

It can effect insurance, I had several non performance mods (and quite a few performance ones) on my celica. Anything can and will effect insurance in the event of an accident. Even graphics can void a policy if not on the policy doc in writing.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

fivetide wrote: »

This is certianly the thinking with Subarus which have a recirculating dump valve putting the pressure back into the system. Venting to atmosphere takes place after all the air calculations are done so it can lead to over fuelling.

Bad in Subarus as you can get bore wash and throw a piston. To be done right it needs to be properly set up.

No idea on VAG cars though.

5t.

its application based really i know that most of not all jap performance cars require the recurc setup, and the right dump valve. for subaru's nissans and mitsi's the best dump valve to have is a dual port piston dump valve, thats fully adjustable provids atmospheric and recurculating air for airmetered systems.

the golfs.audi's, however manage pretty well on single port piston type dumpvalve if you place the valve correctly in the induction, and vucuum it corectly, i.e best practice is to replace the whole of the vac feed pipe with a harder type pipe.