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Best way to remove a lambda sensor?

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  • molerat
    molerat Posts: 34,528 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Ring spanner with a 3mm slice out of it, thickness of a cutting disc, so the individual wires (not the whole covered loom) can be passed through it. Could always get a proper split ring spanner.
  • Wig
    Wig Posts: 14,139 Forumite
    edited 30 May 2012 at 1:55PM
    It was 22.3 across the flats so a 22mm open ended spanner was a very snug fit. couldn't use the ring end as the plug was 35mm !

    Got the pipe off the car easily, will need some new down pipe nuts though, bit concerned about the studs on the downpipe, they are ok for now, but next time..... so I would like to put new studs, not sure how easy that would be.

    Exhaust pipe braced with foot. Enter stage left, a 4 foot tubular lever over the ring end of the spanner and with a bit of weight it was undone and the rest came out with finger pressure. No hammers were used in the making of this thread.

    Should I clean the lambda sensor or just leave alone, has a bit of soot on it.


    Also "cat downpipe to middle exhaust pipe" (where the 3 studs are) has a thin steel gasket.....reuse or replace? Seems in good condition.
  • mikey72
    mikey72 Posts: 14,680 Forumite
    I left mine well alone. Always use a new gasket, as they crush down when you tighten the nuts up. What car is it, I couldn't find any nuts to fit the studs on mine, so re-used the old ones. I can't remember why, odd pitch of thread I think.
  • Wig
    Wig Posts: 14,139 Forumite
    edited 30 May 2012 at 3:45PM
    It's a corsa 1.2, look like standard M8 thread/nuts to me although stainless steel would be better.

    Come to think of it I should have some stainless M8 thread and nuts in there somewhere.

    But on a proper stud there is a non threaded section in the middle which then tightens into the hole.

    And the original nuts are copperplated squashed locking nuts. I think stainless replacements shouls be ok, won't be lockers but I could choose to put 2 nuts on eachstud.
  • mikey72
    mikey72 Posts: 14,680 Forumite
    Can't remember, I thought mine were copper, coarse rather than fine pitch, I couldn't find any, apart from the dealer.
  • Wig
    Wig Posts: 14,139 Forumite
    Upon re examination of the studs they are actually in excellent condition, it was just surface rust from the nuts or somewhere.

    I had a bit of an effort getting the rear box off the middle pipe, angle grinded a short 8 inch section off the middle pipe, then I drilled a 10mm hole through the 8 inch section passed an iron bar through the hole, supported the rear box on a bench and lump-hammered the bar into submission it eventually came out :D

    I am taking my time on this one, off to buy the new middle section tomorrow.
  • Arfa__
    Arfa__ Posts: 584 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    When I did mine (Vauxhall Zafira A), couldn't get a decent spanner to it, due to cramped conditions and it being sunk into manifold a bit. Had to buy special socket (only £5-6 off ebay), its a long socket with a slit down one side to allow the cable to poke out. Much simpler and easier job with the right tools.

    Also, warming the the engine up a little, before unscrewing helped loosening it a bit. Though do be careful, your don't burn yourself on manifold.
  • atrixblue.-MFR-.
    atrixblue.-MFR-. Posts: 6,887 Forumite
    images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRjf6JyyA5Kgn2fOA2lOqQv7Jc7UKA0bwuiTZ5k5XQSA_gsFQombQ i use a 22mm like this one so i dont have to muck about with inserting the plug through the gap of the ring spanner because sometimes the plugs are just too big. one i have is about 10inches long for leveradge and a tap with a hammer for persuasion.
  • DELLBOY_2
    DELLBOY_2 Posts: 133 Forumite
    17, 19, 22 and as many oddball sizes you can think of. Some can be undone with a long socket others will want a spanner.

    Some appear to need the engine removing before you can get anywhere near it.

    Take the car for a good drive, get it really hot. At least 10 minute's of fast roads. As soon as you stop, open the bonnet and spray the sensor with wd40 or similar.

    The rapid cooling will help release any soot on the threads. Try to direct the spray onto the sensor and not the exhaust pipe though.

    Wait for it to cool then go carefully, if its tight, lubricate the threads and screw it back in. Wait 5 minutes and try again.


    be aware that if its very hot the wd40 can and does ignite ....
  • forgotmyname
    forgotmyname Posts: 32,915 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Never had it ignite without a flame before now. As long as its not glowing cherry red. It will be fine.

    I have used WD40 and a gas torch on an ants nest though. Quite spectacular :)

    Do not try this at home, Unless your an arsonist or like pyrotechnics :)
    Censorship Reigns Supreme in Troll City...

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