Best way to remove a lambda sensor?

Wig

Without a lambda socket?

What size is the hex?

It's on top of the middle section of the pipe.

I remember my last car I couldn't get it off no matter what I tried.

benham3160

Size of the hex depends on what size the hex is, it's like saying "what size is a bolt?

Buy a socket, going to be a lot less messing about in the long run, or buy a long socket (if you can get one long enough) and slice the side of it.

Regards,
Andy

vax2002

Ring spanner and hammer.

Wig

They're usually 21mm aren't they?

mikey72

Mine came off fairly easily, but I did have the exhaust off, so I could use a 14" adjustable spanner, and stood on it.

Gloomendoom

Wig wrote: »

Without a lambda socket?

What size is the hex?

It's on top of the middle section of the pipe.

I remember my last car I couldn't get it off no matter what I tried.

They are usually 7/8" AF (22mm) and are absolute bar stewards to get out. You may need to use heat or you could try doing while it is still hot after driving it. I've never tried that though.

A ring spanner may do it but the wire will get in the way of an ordinary socket.

Wig

You know those flexible joints (steel braided mesh) at the front of the exhaust....

It has frayed and broken, I thought broken all the way around but when I pulled on the exhaust backwards it was not releasing from that flexible joint....

Would there be anything else apart form the braiding holding it together i.e. internally inside the braiding?

Because if I cut through the rest of the braiding I will also have the exhaust off and it will be much easier to work on the lamda sensor.

epninety

Cant remember the head size, but vax2002 is right. Even if you have the special socket, ring spanner and hammer is the right method if you can get to it.

Typical lambda sensors are M18x1.5, a common spark plug thread. Can't remember if the head sizes are similar though.

mikey72

Wig wrote: »

You know those flexible joints (steel braided mesh) at the front of the exhaust....

It has frayed and broken, I thought broken all the way around but when I pulled on the exhaust backwards it was not releasing from that flexible joint....

Would there be anything else apart form the braiding holding it together i.e. internally inside the braiding?

Because if I cut through the rest of the braiding I will also have the exhaust off and it will be much easier to work on the lamda sensor.

That's why I did mine. Someone had dropped a lump of black metal in the road, dark morning, it went under the car, hit the middle box, and ripped the flexi out. It was just the flexi welded to the manifold down pipe. I replaced the downpipe and flexi, and the middle box. The downpipe came off in two pieces.

forgotmyname

17, 19, 22 and as many oddball sizes you can think of. Some can be undone with a long socket others will want a spanner.

Some appear to need the engine removing before you can get anywhere near it.

Take the car for a good drive, Get it really hot. At least 10 minute's of fast roads. As soon as you stop, Open the bonnet and spray the sensor with WD40 or similar.

The rapid cooling will help release any soot on the threads. Try to direct the spray onto the sensor and not the exhaust pipe though.

Wait for it to cool then go carefully, If its tight, Lubricate the threads and screw it back in. Wait 5 minutes and try again.

s_b

22 normally
if lambda scrap its sometimes better to cut the wire so you can easily get a proper ring spanner on it
those side cut lambda sockets are a bit weak and im always frightened of it breaking when i use mine so usually use 2 spanners intertwined
remember if you use a hammer then you will likely break the internal heater in it and cause it to be scrap anyway