Pointing outside wall...

cyclonebri1

BertieUK wrote: »

Mikey... Sorry I should have made that clear, I intend to insert the new DPC firmly in place, then bend the DPC into a sloping position to let the rainwater run off, protruding it 6mm over the edge, then carefully fill the remaining cavities,above the DPC with a mortar mix, finishing it off with pointing to a feather edge.

Cyclonebri1 suggested : IE the lead will sit over the existing DPC but you will point above the new lead, leave it about 6mm proud and point to a feather edge on that level for a run off.

Mikey... Maybe I should run a small amount of mortar under the old DPC before I secure the lead DPC prior to pointing above it.

Hope that you kind gents are in agreement and I hope that I do it justice, if not you can use your right of 'Freedom of Speech'

All the best

BobUK

PS I maybe not the sharpest knife in the drawer but I will give it my best shot.

Sharper than many fella, and way too polite for this forum, ;):A

Oh, I only recently started using a mortar gun for re pointing.
It may just be me but you seem to spend as much time filling the darn thing as you do emptying it, , but overall it is quicker and neater unless you are very practised.

BertieUK

cyclonebri1.. Again many thanks for you input and kind comments. I agree with you about the mortar guns needing filled quite often, then you are told to wash out every time its empty, seems rather a fussy tool, but practise would make perfect I suppose. I have read so many reviews about these mortar guns and how the plunger can under pressure collapse, so a gun that has a variable pressure adjustment would, in theory, be the best choice. Or is the problem with the operator being to forceful with the trigger, or is he getting the mix in-correct. We could go on forever with this one cyclonebri1.

I believe that with all operating tools the operator must understand its operation then they have an understanding.

I am still undecided as to whether I should use lead or standard DPC, also should I put the new DPC below the old or above. If I put it below then I would have a lot of ragged edges showing unless I trimmed them off. MMM

Kind regards to you

BobUK

cyclonebri1

I'll let you get on with it now Bertie but 1 off the reasons to put the lead over is to control the existing dpc, it covers it and keeps it out of the way, lead being a more rigid material you are not deals with a floppy moving membrane. You will end up with an almost Z sghaped lead strip and the pointing will be easier and better.

Enough from me, get a mix on;)

Scrubber

The mortar above our DPC (or Damp Proof Membrane) has deteriorated and weathered away in a 30 cm section on one corner of the house. The mortar is 1 inch worn away.

Probably because the drive runs down towards the house bringing rainwater with it.

The DPC is only quarter of a brick up (about 10mm) from ground level, thanks to a driveway which was was laid far too high.

(Current building regs for new houses say a ground-level dpc should be 150mm above the ground level.)

I touched the edge of the tar-like DPC and it just broke away. On balance I think I'll just patch repoint over it, even if it's missing some DPC at the edge.

Interesting thread. Now to try and find a suitable mortar. I've never done any pointing but I don't want heavy cement mortar which sets solid, is very difficult to remove without an axle grinder, and can cause bricks to spald because allows bricks no movement..