Pointing outside wall...

jc808

SailorSam wrote: »

What's the difference between a mortar gun and one you may use with mastic around your windows ?
Is it just heavier ?

Bigger, heavier and has its own (empty) tube, as opposed to mastic guns where its just a frame you slap the caulk/ gripfill/ etc tube into

BertieUK

cyclonebri1 Many thanks for your input. I follow your train of thought here and can understand what you are saying fully, which relieves me as I am trying hard to understand the legistics of what is required to comply with regulations, because we intend to sell the property in the near future. Looking at the picture Post No 22, showing the exposed membrane, would you suggest removing this in order to fit in the lead lining that you suggest.

Kind regards to you

BobUK

mikey72

I'd leave everything as it is, and use a new plastic membrane, cut to just over an inch wide,and lay it under the existing membrane as you repoint. Cut it if you need to if it gets difficult to control if it's too long, and starts to pull out. Then you can repoint the top without bridging, if you've cut it wide enough.

BertieUK

mikey72 Thank you for your input also.

I am fortunate that the stretch that needs repointing, the westen edge of the property, is divided into 3 parts, 2 x 8ft and the chimney breast, so these would be manageable.

I thank you all for your patience.

BobUK

What has been suggested on this site looks like the most common sense remidy to apply, I have looked at various ways of doing this job before asking for help here. What I could not believe worked was boring holes, at intervals, plugging and filling a material to make a barrier, then putting on caps. I was totally lost on believing that this would create a barrier sufficient to make it work as a DPC. Maybe I am having a Senior moment but that idea does not convince me one little bit.

The above named idea was not quoted by any member of this site. Just maufacturers claims.

cyclonebri1

Bertie, no I wouldn't go to the trouble of inserting a complete new sheet lead dpc, I was merely stating that if you did, it wasn't neccessary to punch a course of bricks out.

I would however use strips of sheet lead as oposed to plastic or felt in the existing DPC.

The lead can be punched in and will hold the existing DPC down allowing you to pay full attention to the pointing rather than have the plastic moving about or having to use silicone or similar to avoid that.

Lead will give the best overall result I can promise.

mikey72

What's the existing dpc made of?

BertieUK

mikey72...Thanks for your input...It looks very much like roofing felt, black and coated with a tar product.

regards

BobUK

BertieUK

cyclonebr1 Thanks for your input. Lead would in my opinion be more easier worked with, and give a much stronger looking finish. In theory, as I can on be at this moment, I would imagine that the lead should protude just about 1/8" from the finished facing of the brick.

Does the lead come in various thickness's and width's?

regards

BobUK

cyclonebri1

Yes it does, go for the heavier gauge, you are less likelier to "rip through it when you knock it in. Just go for a short roll or you may get some of cuts.

It seems you have the old tar felt stuff I mentioned earlier, you have done well not to break that out as it goes very brittle with age.

BertieUK

cyclonebri1.. Again thanks for your input. Yes I managed to remove the majority of old mortar, with care and patience, which I found relaxing really, my only concern was the flakey edges that just fell away. I feel more confident in finishing this job to an acceptable level having gained help from people like yourself of which I am grateful.

When I insert the lead it would be best above or below the old damp course and would you suggest trimming the edges to look tidier?

regards

BobUK