Pointing outside wall...

BertieUK

I would like to clean up the brickwork on the outside of our bungalow, it is abot 50 years old and needing some tlc.

The wall in question is a west facing which gets the full force of the weather. Considering that the damp-course also requires maintenence how best would you say I go about this?

Is this something that I should really get in the professionals or would it be within the capabilities of a DIYer?

Hopefully I can include an image for you all to see.

kind regards

BobUK

paye

If your thinking of doing the whole property your better of getting someone in. Or if it's a small area you can do it yourself, grind out the existing mortar, and repoint it with sand and cement. Will cost you less to nothing if you do it yourself. Be warned its a very boring excercise.

Good Luck:beer:

BertieUK

paye Thank's for your input. The area is only on the western side of the property where the weather, as usual, can be quite destructive. I do not mind the boring exercise of the job, it was more about the membrane forming the damp-course. I wondered if it would withstand me removing part of the mortar.

regards

BobUK

tony6403

As said above a grinder can be (carefully) used to prepare for most of the repointing. For the course which has the dpc use a hammer and plugging chisel and you will be able to avoid damaging it.

BertieUK

Thank's Tony for your input. The plugging chisel looks a safe way to loosen the mortar prior to repointing. I was concerned that the damp course might have dried out and be brittle and could crack, I am not a heavy handed person so I will take great care.

Regards

BobUK

pavlovs_dog

apologies if this is a really stupid question, but when removing what is left of the old mortar, do you take it all out at once to speed up the process of repointing, or is it best to go layer by layer? If the latter, presumably it is better to work top to bottom rather than bottom to top

BertieUK

Pavlovs_dog.. Thats a very good question you have made. I feel that extreme patience is required on the damp-course so as to not damage this menbrane.

The bungalow next door had theirs done by a brickie and I cant see the damp course membrant at all. This is why i opened up the post on here.

Interesting to hear what the experts say.

regards

BobUK

Fed_Up_Tradesman

You will have little to no chance of removing the existing mortar between courses and leaving the DPC undamaged.

There are two ways to tackle this job.

Remove 1m of bricks at a time and bed new DPC on mortar then re-lay half of the gap in new bricks and point up. Repeat ad nauseum until done. Never bridge DPCs with mortar.

The modern way is to inject a chemical gel into drilled holes on both faces of the wall at specified centres and distances from the existing DPC.

It is not a recommended job for DIY, especially as DPC's are subject to Building Regs.

Kingfisher Dri Wall Cream is a product I've used before.

SailorSam

If you're going to try and remove the old mortar with a grinder you're neighbours will love you. Try and cover up as much as you can.

BertieUK

Fed_Up_Tradesmen Thank's for your input.

I think that I will leave well alone, and if the matter is mentioned during the sale of the property, then the price can be adjusted. As it is only on one side of the property it is no big deal.

Would putting on a waterproof sealer help the situation and make the bricks look better. Such as Thompson's One Coat Watrer Seal Ultra.

Regards

BobUK

tony6403

For repointing, only about 12mm of existing mortar is removed. Relaying bricks on a new dpc is unnecessary if your dpc hasn't failed and the existing bricks are sound.
I think that should you decide to repoint, "bridging" will not be a problem.
I am not alone in this opinion. Quote from Jeff Howell (author)

the idea of dampness bypassing a DPC by “bridging” (by pointing or rendered plinths) is greatly overstated. Not least because cement-based mortars and renders are basically impermeable to moisture