My new rescue girl

krlyr

Here's Casper showing off his Dogmatic headcollar



I only really use headcollars because Kiki will bolt after squirrels/rabbits/cats and it helps me shift her focus back on to the walk rather than her trying to drag me across a road after them, and because Casper can be reactive with other dogs so if we get cornered it allows me to hold him back rather than him lunging at the other dog (he's a big wuss so it's all a front, an "I'll scare you before you realise I'm more scared" reaction), if she walks nicely and doesn't have any chasing or reactivity issues, a headcollar may not be necessary. You might want to consider a harness though, I prefer walking my two on harnesses as it puts less pressure on their necks - and if you use a longline or Flexilead, you should always attach it to a harness not to a collar (if they run to the end of the lead it can put a lot of sudden pressure on the neck as they jolt to a stop, a harness will spread this jolt out). Look at the Dog-Games style harnesses online, there's a few companies that make the same kind of style, and you can buy some with two hoops one - one on the back like a regular harness but an extra one on the front/chest. The idea is you use a double-ended lead (Halti do a good one called a training lead - really recommend it, even if you just use it on a collar) and clip one end to each clip on the harness. Having the two points of connection gives you greater control of the dog, so would help with any minor lunging or pulling.

As mentioned, the Halti training lead is fab and I know loads of dog owners who swear by them. It has clips on both end and several rings down the length of it so you can use it in several ways. Doubled over, it forms a regular length lead. You can allow an extra foot or two by clipping one clip to the middle ring, and even more length by clipping the end to the last ring, which creates a handle. You can clip it around your waist for a hands-free option (I do this when running with Kiki). You can clip one clip to a collar/harness and one to a headcollar, this is what I usually do - then I hold the lead shorter on the harness end so if the dog pulls it doesn't tug on the headcollar, but if I need to use the headcollar I can just slide my hand along the lead towards that end. It's really comfy to hold too, and as I have a few (one per dog and a spare), I sometimes join them all together to make a longline if I've forgotten to bring my actual longline too - so very multi-purpose!

This photos a bit small but shows the various uses:
http://www.gsdhelp.info/behaviour/halti-training-lead-1.jpg

Some bigger images -
Two points of connection for security: http://www.swellpets.co.uk/img/shop/original/Halti_training_lead.jpg

Clipped to the first hoop for the shortest length:
http://www.pet-bliss.com/acatalog/HaltiTrainingLeadSmallImage.jpg

Medium length:
http://www.petplanet.co.uk/shop_dev/assets/extra_images/4458/20_lead_long.gif
(if you look by the person's hand you'll see the 3rd ring - if you clipped the clip to this instead, you end up with more lead length and a smaller handle-shaped bit on the end)

Wellyboots6

Start sleeping with an old towel in bed with you to get your smell on it.

That way when you start to leave her on her own she has something with your scent on to make her feel a little more secure.

My boy used to cuddle his towel, now he doesn't bother with it any more as he sleeps on my slippers instead. Means they are nice and warm when I get in

con1888

ONE MORE SLEEP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1


Thanks for all the advice, not long finished setting up after my visit to pets at home... £160 later, not very MSE !! Got lots though

Huge bags of James Wellbeloved
Tins too
Bowls on stand (two bowls)
Pigs ears - don't know if she will like them, old dog loved them so I will try.
General treats - the ones you buy like pick'n'mix.
Huge cushion bed (washable cover)
Collar ( the one that gettingready told me)
Lead - atm just got a heavy duty plain one, will see how she is on first walk then consider more expensive harnesses.
One sqeaky toy, one soft toy, one tennis ball ( to suss out what she likes)
Doggy shampoo ( got hypoallergenic to be on safe side)
Doggy grooming brush.

(also got Frankie some things so he wasn't left out)
Got old towels at the ready, going to do the towel thing in my bed.


Am I ready????

Wellyboots6

You are ready

I'm so excited for you!!

Just remember to give her space to explore and settle. Keep things nice and quiet and calm, and try to stick to your normal routine as much as possible.

Saying that, when I bought my boy home for the first time, he marched in to the house and took over like a furry hurricane! No confidence issues there!

con1888

Yeah I will be in all friday and saturday, be out for a bit on Sunday but bf will be in with her. Her bed is set up infront of the radiator so hopefully be nice and warm for her. Bowls all set up and will put food in them when I know she is on her way so that she can explore them straight away.

I am mega mega excited, a bit nervous at how Frankie will be but I am sure both will settle with each other after a few days.

Can I ask what brushes you guys use? I got a square one, this one
http://www.petsathome.com/shop/soft-pin-slicker-by-mikki-26725 in the large size. Wasn't really sure what to get though , she is short haired, rescue volunteer told me she needs a good brush.


Re worming and flea treatment , what is best atm? I know they all seem to change and fleas can build immunity. Obviously I need to check when she was last done so didn't buy any of that yet.

Mely

I am so happy for you, please let us now how things go and post some pics!!! She looks like a lovely girl

krlyr

con1888 wrote: »

Yeah I will be in all friday and saturday, be out for a bit on Sunday but bf will be in with her. Her bed is set up infront of the radiator so hopefully be nice and warm for her. Bowls all set up and will put food in them when I know she is on her way so that she can explore them straight away.

I am mega mega excited, a bit nervous at how Frankie will be but I am sure both will settle with each other after a few days.

Can I ask what brushes you guys use? I got a square one, this one
http://www.petsathome.com/shop/soft-pin-slicker-by-mikki-26725 in the large size. Wasn't really sure what to get though , she is short haired, rescue volunteer told me she needs a good brush.


Re worming and flea treatment , what is best atm? I know they all seem to change and fleas can build immunity. Obviously I need to check when she was last done so didn't buy any of that yet.

Just bear in mind that GSDs don't always like "nice and warm"! Lots of ours preferred to sleep by the back door, presumably liking the cooler kitchen tiles and slight draught under the door. Casper often took himself up out of the living room and into the kitchen - I say used to, our new house doesn't have a great difference in temperature between the rooms like the old house did, but he definately has a preference for it a bit cooler.

I use a variety of brushes for different purposes. My shorthaired (her coats a bit more Rottie than GSD, but still double-coated) is mostly brushed with a slicker brush like in your link. It helps pull out the undercoat.
Another brush I have is a combination of a plastic pin brush and a bristle brush - haven't been able to find them online whenever I've looked but I think it's a Rosewood one. It's square like the one you've got but it's got both of these kinds of brushes, but combined into one side (the bristle bits are about half a cm shorter than the pins)
http://www.petsathome.com/shop/large-double-sided-brush-by-pets-at-home-28351
I find this helps pick up loose hair as well as massaging the skin, which can help promote healthy hair growth.

I have a Mikki MoultMaster, which is Mikki's version of the Furminator. I don't use it that often, I have found it to damage Kiki's coat if used too often. Just once a month or so, when the dogs are looked tufty
http://www.petsathome.com/shop/matt-master-for-fine-medium-matts-by-mikki-26689

Finally, I've just replaced my own hairbrush and I'm finding my old one fab for Casper's long hair, but it doesn't do much for Kiki. It's just a regular paddle-shaped pin brush, I loved it for my own hair as it never seemed to catch on knots, it untangled them easily, and it seems to do the same with Casper's

Save your money and avoid petshop bought flea and worming treatments, many have become inaffective. Definately avoid the Bob Martins products, not only do they not tend to work, but some have been known to cause bad reactions.
If you speak to the vet or a vet nurse, they should be happy to discuss a flea and worming treatment regime to suit you. Some may have some kind of discount payment plan to take advantage of, or some may have low prescription fees that make it cheaper to buy the products online. My vet writes a prescription for a £6 fee, and then I order the flea treatment online at half the price my vets sell it (my vets aren't a ripoff but just don't have the bulkbuying power and low overheads of an online pharmacy). I personally use Advocate monthly and then Drontal every 6 months - Advocate covers fleas and most worms (including lungworm - find out if this is a problem in your area as Advocate and Panacur are the only treatments for it) but Drontal is needed once in a while to cover for tapeworm, as that's one that Advocate doesn't cover. It works out about £5 a month for the Advocate per dog, and £4 for the Drontal (so neglible costs if you divide that by 6 months!). If lungworm isn't a concern in your area then you could use an alternative flea treatment, or just use it less often.

rising_from_the_ashes

gettingready wrote: »

Zara has this type of a collar:



It is NOT used as a choke collar (although called half choke collar) - I like it as the silver chain looks nice hanging on the bottom of her neck, it is always loose.

I swear by these collars (glad you got one Con) .... absolutely fab for dogs (such as Labs:cool:) whose necks are often bigger then their heads (which makes it really easy for them to slip their collars:eek: )

Can't wait to see the pics when you get her home!:D

Wellyboots6

Regarding flea and worming I'm afraid I am the opposite to krlyr, just to confuse you!

I use Bob Martin supermarket jobbies on my boy as he had a bad reaction to stuff from the vets. Its cheap and cheerful and seems to do the job.

I think he may just be not that appealing to fleas and ticks though as we live in the countryside and he spends a lot of time in long grass and walking through sheep fields, and so far (touch wood!) has not picked up any crawlies.

Brush wise you might be best taking her down to a pet shop so they can see what type of coat she has and recommend something. I have used that many different types of brush it must have cost me a fortune!!

I also use the type of collar you have, although I only really attach his lead to it at his training class. When walking him usually I use a Gentle Leader head collar which works wonders.

Eeeek! Have you got her yet, have you, have you?!!

krlyr

But to play devil's advocate, I didn't use flea treatment for years and never saw a flea on any of my dogs (ditto with worms, no treatment and no symptoms) - so the Bob Martins may not be doing the job, you may just be very lucky (I also lived in the countryside walking through lots of long grass). I think it's a bit like headlice, lice eventually get immune so a new product comes on the market, but I imagine the resistance of the lice must vary by region and by products used in certain areas, so perhaps your local fleas aren't immune to petshop stuff yet. I've just heard too many horror stories about Bob Martins in particular to recommend it.
But yes, bear in mind that they are, effectively, poisons and dogs can have bad reactions to certain medications or ingredients in them, even if they're vet-prescribed. Mine are fine on Advocate but I always apply it on a day I'm home so I can monitor them (and do it early in the day so I'm within vet opening hours to save myself the emergency vet bill if they do react!). I also make sure that I don't give their 6 monthly worming tablet on the same day as the flea treatment, I give it a week or so, so as to not overload them all in one go.