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Loo overflowing into pan. Help solving please?
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cosworth_monkey wrote: »Yes totally agree, I thought the op had already moved on from the fill valve.
All over the place. I think the float is at its highest....
OP has no chance unless its one thing at a time. If I was there it would take about 30 seconds to work it out but i cant see it.Not Again0 -
1984ReturnsForReal wrote: »Hang fire on that. First things first. No offence. But once the op works out if the fill valve is faulty, yours is the next step.
I have set the float so it is a low as possible (cistern is only 2/3 full now). Still getting the water trickle from the outlets at the front of the pan but less.Truth always poses doubts & questions. Only lies are 100% believable, because they don't need to justify reality. - Carlos Ruiz Zafon, The Labyrinth of the Spirits0 -
on a typical syphon assembly, there are two places where you can get problems.
the diaphragm (inside the box thingy) splits, and the bottom connection washer/seal.Get some gorm.0 -
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Mrs_Arcanum wrote: »I have set the float so it is a low as possible (cistern is only 2/3 full now). Still getting the water trickle from the outlets at the front of the pan but less.
In that case without screwing the float just hold it up and while you are doing that flush the toilet & see if water comes into the cistern.
If no water comes in then its a fault of the flush valve, most likely a clear plastic washer underneath.
If water still comes in to the cistern it is both the fill & flush valves that are faulty.
Dont worry too much about the doughnut washer they are supposed to protect against flushes & not the continuous flow of water past them. It will probably be ok once it dries out & the toilet is operating as normal.
You may still have disturbed the fill valve hence the wetness at the entry point but it is just as likely to be condensation.
In short it probably just needs 2 new washers for about £0.70 max but may only need one. However a plumber would want to fit a new flush cartridge & fill valve because obviously there may be things like a sticky button on the flush cartridge or wear on the fill valve that could cause the same problems but to investigate that would cost you in labour terms just as much money as a straight swap.
Plumber should be about £60-£80 including partsNot Again0 -
1984ReturnsForReal wrote: »In that case without screwing the float just hold it up and while you are doing that flush the toilet & see if water comes into the cistern.
If no water comes in then its a fault of the flush valve, most likely a clear plastic washer underneath. :T
If water still comes in to the cistern it is both the fill & flush valves that are faulty.
Dont worry too much about the doughnut washer they are supposed to protect against flushes & not the continuous flow of water past them. It will probably be ok once it dries out & the toilet is operating as normal.
You may still have disturbed the fill valve hence the wetness at the entry point but it is just as likely to be condensation.
In short it probably just needs 2 new washers for about £0.70 max but may only need one. However a plumber would want to fit a new flush cartridge & fill valve because obviously there may be things like a sticky button on the flush cartridge or wear on the fill valve that could cause the same problems but to investigate that would cost you in labour terms just as much money as a straight swap.
Plumber should be about £60-£80 including parts
Seems to be this part that needs replacing.Is it possible to DIY? I am quite handy round the house with practical stuff.
Think the outlet being wet could well be condensation. We used to have a similar problem with the old bodged up high level cistern (basically a low level with a down pipe added) put in by the previous owner.Truth always poses doubts & questions. Only lies are 100% believable, because they don't need to justify reality. - Carlos Ruiz Zafon, The Labyrinth of the Spirits0 -
http://www.ultimatehandyman.org/video/plumbing/install-water-inlet-valve.php
It seems that the flush valve is suspect.
I could not find a video that deals with that , other than USA types.
This video is aimed at replacing a faulty fill valve, but shows the flush valve being removed.
At 1min you see how to remove the flush valve.
At 1min 14secs you get a view of the offending washer that may be leaking.0 -
Truth always poses doubts & questions. Only lies are 100% believable, because they don't need to justify reality. - Carlos Ruiz Zafon, The Labyrinth of the Spirits0
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Mrs_Arcanum wrote: »Seems to be this part that needs replacing.
Is it possible to DIY? I am quite handy round the house with practical stuff.
Its simple.
The flush valve will either twist or clip off.
On the bottom is a clear washer that will stretch off over the end piece of plastic holding in on.
When you put the other one on its best to do it completely dry ie dry valve & dry base that it twists/clips onto.
Then job done. Simples. However, don't rule out the fact the valve maybe sticking internally so a new one may be required. But for 50p ish its worth a go & there is a very strong possibility it will be the sole cause of the problems.Not Again0 -
1984ReturnsForReal wrote: »Its simple.
The flush valve will either twist or clip off.
On the bottom is a clear washer that will stretch off over the end piece of plastic holding in on.
When you put the other one on its best to do it completely dry ie dry valve & dry base that it twists/clips onto.
Then job done. Simples. However, don't rule out the fact the valve maybe sticking internally so a new one may be required. But for 50p ish its worth a go & there is a very strong possibility it will be the sole cause of the problems.
Even a whole new part seems to only be around £12.Truth always poses doubts & questions. Only lies are 100% believable, because they don't need to justify reality. - Carlos Ruiz Zafon, The Labyrinth of the Spirits0
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