Moving a lightswicth 6 inches down the wall.

Mankysteve

Why not replace switch with a rf one then you can control it remotely. No need to do any major wiring stuff then. B&Q do ones that give you standard switch type thing that you can move around but I'm sure there plenty of other options out there.

Other wise I would go with green face suggestion.

Jaynne

keystone wrote: »

3. Crimp (using a proper crimping tool) and heat shrink sleeve the joints. This you can plaster over.

You may not use choc block, even in a cover box, plaster over the whole thing and leave it inaccessible.

Cheers

Can you solder, heat shrink and then plaster or must it be crimped? Just for future reference as I own a soldering iron but not a crimp tool.

DVardysShadow

Jaynne wrote: »

Can you solder, heat shrink and then plaster or must it be crimped? Just for future reference as I own a soldering iron but not a crimp tool.

Do not solder mains wiring as the primary means of fixing. Connections must always be securely fixed mechanically - which soldering is not. Although there is no issue with soldering something once it is securely fixed mechanically, you wouldn't want to bother.

bordercars

im not a sparky, so take advice. but if the current switch is flush as your previous post says, can you not just go into the back of the switch and then spur to a new switch leaving the original in the "on" position.

hoppo,p

If you use connector strip, wrap it well in insulation tape and then plaster over it. Same with a crimped joint (which is the correct way). Strictly speaking, you shouldn't plaster over it with connector strip but that is only because you can't see where a mechanical joint is then! You know where is, so if there is a problem you know where the trouble will be.
Thousands of houses have them in the wall all over the country, so don't worry about it.

ormus

:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

Alias_Omega

How deep is the plaster surrounding the existing light switch?


If its deep enough, you could remove enough surrounding the switch to allow for the 1 gang blanking plate to be flush with the wall.



I am suprised that no one has flown the "Part P" flag as of yet.

hoppo,p

Part P doesn't apply

zax47

hoppo,p wrote: »

If you use connector strip, wrap it well in insulation tape and then plaster over it. Same with a crimped joint (which is the correct way). Strictly speaking, you shouldn't plaster over it with connector strip but that is only because you can't see where a mechanical joint is then! You know where is, so if there is a problem you know where the trouble will be.
Thousands of houses have them in the wall all over the country, so don't worry about it.

Neither of those suggestions comply with BS7671:2008 (amended 2011) and are a complete cowboy bodge. You got somewhere to tie your horse up, bodger?

Ectophile

hoppo,p wrote: »

Part P doesn't apply

OK, I'll bite. Why does Part P not apply?