Moving a lightswicth 6 inches down the wall.

Mr_Reeman

Hi, my gf has bought a lovely old antique shelving unit which she wants in our Edwardian home. The problem is, the alcove it is to go in means the light switch is covered by it!

I would like to just move the switch 6 inches down the wall by cutting a new box and channel out of the plaster. The only problem is extending the wire which currently wont reach further down the wall.
What would be the preferred method to join the wire and extend it by a few inches? I expect I will join the wire in the existing back box and use a cover plate to hide the join which would be covered by the shelving unit, but it would also allow access to the join if necessary.

Thanks.

Avoriaz

I would use connecting strips like these. You could also use a box like these.

They come in various sizes/ratings. For normal lighting you only need a rating of 5 amps. Make sure the extra wire that you use is suitable for lighting and is also correctly rated for the load. 5 amps should be ok unless you have a lot of high wattage bulbs in the ceiling.

Just make sure that you connect all the wires correctly and firmly and don't leave any bits of wire sticking out either end. You could finish off by wrapping insulating tape around the connectors although that isn't essential.

And don't forget to isolate the power at the consumer unit (NOT the light switch) before starting the work.

Mr_Reeman

Thanks, I was thinking a choc blox too.

Cheers for the help.

TimBuckTeeth

Using a flex outlet or fused connection plate (check they would fit in the back box as they are deeper than a switch) would be better than a terminal block as the terminals are better quality but more importantly the screws and metal back box would be connected to earth.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-20a-1-gang-flex-outlet-white/70006

http://www.screwfix.com/p/marbo-13a-dp-fcu/64816

Connection guide here, just don't use the flex cord grip and use normal twin and earth cable :

http://www.diyfixit.co.uk/electrics/fused-connection-unit.html

keystone

You either have to:

1. Renew the whole length of cable or;

2. Keep the back box, join the cables with choc block within the back box and then fit a removable blanking plate over the back box (this as you have already said is your preferred option) or;

3. Crimp (using a proper crimping tool) and heat shrink sleeve the joints. This you can plaster over.

You may not use choc block, even in a cover box, plaster over the whole thing and leave it inaccessible.

Cheers

greenface

how difficult would it be to lift a floorboard upstairs and see if you can pull anything along ? (switch end & light end)

ormus

why not move the light switch a few inches, up?

greenface

or the shelf !

Mr_Reeman

Thanks guys. Shelf is going there whether the light switch is accessible or not unfortunately! She who must be obeyed!

I like the idea of the fused spur connector. Would mean its connected up properly then. I will see what I can get that is flush with the wall like the existing switch, so that the back of the shelving unit is flat against the wall.

I realise I cannot hide any connectors under the plaster, so I wont be doing that.

Thanks for your help.

keystone

Mr_Reeman wrote: »

I like the idea of the fused spur connector.

Ha Ha. She won't, you'll be lucky to get away with a blanking plate.

Cheers

DVardysShadow

greenface wrote: »

how difficult would it be to lift a floorboard upstairs and see if you can pull anything along ? (switch end & light end)

That is what I would do. and if the floor trap ran in the right direction to the ceiling rose, I would consider pulling a whole new cable if there was not enough slack.