Curved wood Molding/trim

ormus

you may be able to back cut that tight curve, but steaming or laminating maybe a better solution.

capeverde

Catbells wrote: »

Thank you for this helpful and detailed explanation. The first way sounds better for a 'novice' like me. From your description I will need a quadrant piece plus a straight piece to attach it to. I favour the second method as there won't be a join, but would need to get hold of a router and an ovolo bit.

you will be able to do it from a single length, just cut it slightly over size initially, back cut the curve and offer it up, trimming off the long side to suit. be careful not to cut too far through though or it will snap, bit of trial and error but its straightforward. As the poster above says you can steam or glulam, but this really isnt a diy option, backcutting will be fine on that radius.

ormus

a simple jig to hold the wood after steaming.
tip,
keep both ends fairly long, (not like above) and then trim to final size after drying/cooling.

Catbells

ormus wrote: »

a simple jig to hold the wood after steaming.
tip,
keep both ends fairly long, (not like above) and then trim to final size after drying/cooling.

That looks great. Thanks. You and Capverde mention steaming. Will a pan of water on a stove do for this? And also if I can get hold of a piece of maple to match the floor will this bend easily as other softer woods might. I can get a piece of maple probably at a shop in Suffolk I have used for a sill for a step to great effect.

Catbells

capeverde wrote: »

back cut the curve and offer it up,

What do you mean here capeverde?

leveller2911

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/WOODWORKINGBENDING_WOOD.htm


Keep the cuts at an equal distance and the curve will be consistant..As you bend the moulding the sawcuts close up but you will still see them when you have finished so I would use pine and paint it.



.Posted link as Cape isn't online..

Catbells

ormus wrote: »

a simple jig to hold the wood after steaming.
tip,
keep both ends fairly long, (not like above) and then trim to final size after drying/cooling.

Thank you Ormus. How do you steam the wood? Also your picture shows a 'template'. Did you make this? If so how did you do it?

capeverde

you really need a steambox as it requires heat and steam. Best to have the wood soaked for some time too. Holding it over a pan isnt going to work apart from with a very thin piece of wood.

re the backcutting or kerf cutting what I was trying to explain is that if you do the curved section first, you will be able to hold this in situ whilst bending the longer length into place. You will then be able to mark this off to length so it fits in one piece. Heres an article on backcutting, obviously the piece of woof here is far thicker than the one you need and your cuts wouldnt need to be anywhere near so deep.

http://stusshed.com/2007/07/17/kerfing-bending-wood-on-the-tablesaw/

capeverde

another tip is to mix the fine sawdust with wood glue to the consistency of a paste and to use this as a filler. Once sanded you wont notice the cuts.

ormus

make a template from cardboard. then transfer it to say mdf or plywood.



a simple steambox. you can always use pvc pipe too.
anything will do really. remember to poke wires thro the middle of the box, to hold your bit of wood up inside the middle.
lets the steam work all around the piece.
and remember to insert the wood into the jig straight away after removal from the steambox. 15-30-60 minutes. trial and error.
get everything ready.