Curved wood Molding/trim

Catbells

Hi Does anyone know how to make a curved molding out of wood (maple or maybe just pine) to put as a trim to the base of curved stair where it meets the floor. The join is very tacky with uneven ends of the wood floor which was a DIY reclaimed maple floor which is in every other way very nice - just the edges are rough.
(Would put a picture up but it looks as though you have to have an email address for it. How do you do this. Does anyone know?)

capeverde

there are various ways, you could machine it out of a larger piece of wood, join smaller bits to make the curve, steam it, glue lam it etc etc. would need a pic to give you the best method.

travellerboy

Posting a Picture on MSE is very easy - The easiest way is to open an account with Photobucket (free) then upload your photo to your photobucket account. Place your mouse pointer over the new photo and press the right mouse button, then select properties. A new box will appear and the URL address of your photo is shown. Write this down.

The on MSE post press Insert Image , then enter the URL address of the photo you just wrote down. Bingo the photo will appear.

devotee

I'm also interested in this, been looking online and couldn't find anything decent.
I'm trying to recreate doors like the photos 9 and 11 (ignore the price). Is that similar to what is OP after?

http://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/property-31658794.html

leveller2911

The curved bottom stair is called a "Bullnose" and a decent carpenter can do a basic moulding anything complex and you will need a Joinery workshop to run out the moulding .

@ devotee you can try and google door mouldings and find something that may work for you but if your looking to match the photo's then go and visit a small local Joinery workshop and they can match the mouldings.I would just add that making the mouldings for one or two doors will be very expensive but if your looking for 10 doors or more it will bring the prices down.

The Joinery workshop would use a spindle moulder to make the mouldings but depending on profile(shape) may need to make a "cradle" up to machine the profile which will be expensive.............

Itismehonest

I'm reading this different to the previous posters but I may have got it wrong.
I think the OP may mean that the bottom stair has a curved face (both riser & tread)? Is that right, OP?
If so what they are after sounds like curving quadrant to cover the gap between the floor & the bottom of the riser.

leveller2911

Itismehonest wrote: »

I'm reading this different to the previous posters but I may have got it wrong.
I think the OP may mean that the bottom stair has a curved face (both riser & tread)? Is that right, OP?
If so what they are after sounds like curving quadrant to cover the gap between the floor & the bottom of the riser.

Thats the way I read it, its called a "Bullnose", staircases that are in the middle of a hallway as opposed to next to a wall have a "double bullnose" (curved tread and riser both sides)..

If it is a "quadrant" then they can saw almost through the moulding with a handsaw but leaving about 6mm of timber left(don't cut all the way through the timber), make the cut every 25mm and then bend the quadrant to the bullnose riser however this will need painting or they will see the sawcuts.
The idea of the sawcuts is to allow the quadrant moulding to bend sufficently enough without breaking ..Bullnoses tend to be quote a tight curve so they may need to cut the quadrant if they can't bend it tight enough...Pine quadrant would look pants on a Maple floor,not sure if you can buy Maple quadrant off the shelf.

Catbells

Itismehonest wrote: »

I'm reading this different to the previous posters but I may have got it wrong.
I think the OP may mean that the bottom stair has a curved face (both riser & tread)? Is that right, OP?
If so what they are after sounds like curving quadrant to cover the gap between the floor & the bottom of the riser.

I think you are right and I'm about to put a picture up here from Flickr as I already registered with them and not Photobucket which someone kindly suggested.

Thats the way I read it, its called a "Bullnose", staircases that are in the middle of a hallway as opposed to next to a wall have a "double bullnose" (curved tread and riser both sides)..

Mine is next to one wall as I hope you can see.

I would just add that making the mouldings for one or two doors will be very expensive but if your looking for 10 doors or more it will bring the prices down.

Yes I think you are right about the expense and since I dont need 10 I want the least expensive way to do it for one only. Image might help.



http://www.flickr.com/photos/67556339@N00/6649693185/

Catbells

devotee wrote: »

I'm also interested in this, been looking online and couldn't find anything decent.
I'm trying to recreate doors like the photos 9 and 11 (ignore the price). Is that similar to what is OP after?

http://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/property-31658794.html

Its the same principle - curved wood though for different purpose. Good luck.

capeverde

ok two pretty easy ways to do that. You need something like an inch quadrant to cover the gap. First way anybody could do themselves, its called backcutting. Take a length of wooden beading and from the back side cut around half way through with a fine blade every 10mm for the duration of the curve. This will enable the wood to bend a lot easier. When it is then pinned in situ, you can rub a filler into any slight slits that you can see and then sand off. Second way requires more tools. You would machine the curve out of a larger piece of wood and then with an ovolo bit in a router just match in with a straight length. Try the first way tbh, you could buy the quad from any diy store and back cut with a junior hacksaw.

Catbells

capeverde wrote: »

ok two pretty easy ways to do that. You need something like an inch quadrant to cover the gap. First way anybody could do themselves, its called backcutting. ..... Second way requires more tools. You would machine the curve out of a larger piece of wood and then with an ovolo bit in a router just match in with a straight length. Try the first way tbh, you could buy the quad from any diy store and back cut with a junior hacksaw.

Thank you for this helpful and detailed explanation. The first way sounds better for a 'novice' like me. From your description I will need a quadrant piece plus a straight piece to attach it to. I favour the second method as there won't be a join, but would need to get hold of a router and an ovolo bit.