Washing machine with only cold fill

keystone

Myser wrote: »

It depends where the socket is located.

I know. OP said its in the adjacent cupboard.

Plenty of people have a socket for their washing machines behind it just above where it won't get wet.

Agreed but a fixed socket is not the same thing as an unfixed training lead. Thats why I said "n" posts ago that it should be securely fixed to the cupboard!!!!!!!

There is no requirement to have the socket in a separate cupboard.

Whats that got to do with the price of fish? In this case thats where the OP's socket is located.

I agree it wouldn't be a good idea for the socket to be on the floor in this case.

Quite.

Cheers

Myser

There's no point in arguing over this - it all depends where the hole is. If it is above, use a short trailing socket lead. If below, use a longer lead and secure the socket at a high level.

It is clearly more practical, convenient and easier to use a trailing socket lead as most who have already replied to this thread agree.

Manufacturers no longer provide very long flexes on their equipment therefore, moving the machine out in an emergency would prove difficult if the plug was wired on the other side of the cupboard.

keystone

Myser wrote: »

There's no point in arguing over this

I agree. My advice is given from a tradesmans perspective and a trailing lead is, in my opinion, unsafe. I have already conceded that a trailing lead might be considered OK from a DIY perspective. If your opinion is given from a DIY perspective then thats fine and you are entitled to it. On the basis that you are giving your advice as a DIYer then I'm happy to drop the subject.

Cheers

ikati5

loulou41 wrote: »

I have a hot and cold water supply, but the new washing machine I intend to buy only has a cold water valve - what do I do? I want to buy Dixon installation at £20 but am a bit concerned in case the delivery men refused to connect. I was thinking of getting a plumber to connect but not sure how much it will cost as the electric plug needs to be cut out and refixed so that it can go through a small hole and be fixed in the cupboard but I do not know whether Dixon will do that. Anybody has ever used installation service? Thanks

Does arguing about a trailing/ non trailing plug socket actually have any relevance to the above post?

bryanb

ikati5 wrote: »

I am fairly certain that i you remove a moulded plug from any appliance you void your warranty!!

Who is disconnecting the old machine? Connecting washing machine is a very simple job and not worthy of even a £20 fee. It will not even take 5 minutes to do and does not require tools!!

Removing transit brackets on mine required tool(s)

This discussion could run till New Year!!

ikati5

bryanb wrote: »

Removing transit brackets on mine required tool(s)

This discussion could run till New Year!!

A very small household spanner! Hardly a professional kit!

keystone

ikati5 wrote: »

Does arguing about a trailing/ non trailing plug socket actually have any relevance to the above post?

Absolutely none whatsoever unless you believe, as I do, that the use of a trailing lead is inherently unsafe in this applcation and that the OP should not take as authoritative any advice to use one. I will happily withdraw my objection, delete all my posts on the subject and apologise to the OP if someone can please provide a professional definitive statement that it is safe.

Cheers

chopps

Preference would be to make the hole larger to allow the plug to pass through it as the less joins and connections the better in terms of safety.
Having a trailing socket is, as others stated, much more convenient for quickly disconnecting the appliance before pulling it out for maintenance and cleaning etc.
Some of them now have a screw hole at the back to allow for the socket part to be hooked up on the wall.
If you do decide to use one make sure it's of good quality and all the screw connections are tight, some of the cheaper ones look as if they're not up to passing a heavy current such as a washing machine with heater that could be rated at the maximum 3KW loading.
When it comes to plumbing in a machine which is cold fill only, it's easier as only one filling hose to connect.
Just make sure the old hot water pipe isolating tap is kept closed as it will now be redundant. As an extra precaution you could also plug the end of the pipe with an end stop/cap.
I suppose the running costs of a cold fill only machine are higher as all the water heating will be done by an electric heater element inside the machine instead of hot filling from a gas boiler if you have gas water heating.
If you have an electric immersion water heating system then it could end up being more economical as only the required amount of water will be heated.

ladylouise62

bryanb wrote: »

Removing transit brackets on mine required tool(s)

Mine came with a little spanner thing to undo them, the same way that flatpack cupboards normally have a 'key'.

michael_nod

cold water fill on a washing machine
is fine
why stress the inbuilt thermostat further
washing machines
do not last further with calgon