10 months in and 90 left to go ... the reality is starting to kick in :)

elantan

It's gas z and that's units so I need to multiply that by 11.2 for the kwh then the price per kwh for the cost

We are keeping the heating on though cause I don't do freezing, although to be honest the house is freezing and we have the heating on high, it's just such a cold house, we've nearly fully insulated the loft and it doesn't seem to be making any difference just now ... It's only going to get worse jan and feb as well

ZTD

elantan wrote: »

it's just such a cold house, we've nearly fully insulated the loft and it doesn't seem to be making any difference just now ... It's only going to get worse jan and feb as well

Do you know where the heat is going?

elantan

I think it's because we're a single brick house but we can get cavity insulation done either, there are boards that we can buy that cuts out heat loss but the ones that would do the job were something like £75 or so per board and we would need a lot of boards

I think it's not helped by the fact that although we only have a two bedroom house we do have quite big rooms and lots of spare rooms as well ( well when I say lots I mean we have 10 rooms a long hallway and a staircase )

beanielou

10 roomsw yet only 2 bedrooms :eek:

skint_spice

beanielou wrote: »

10 roomsw yet only 2 bedrooms :eek:

LOL, I was wondering too - torture chamber, dungeon... :rotfl::rotfl:

elantan

Kinky room more like lol

Two bedrooms, living room, kitchen, dinning room, two bathrooms, computer room , book room, and a bar, on two levels, we tend to spend most of our time upstairs though ... It's a bungalow with a basement conversion ( basement you can see your breath in the air in summer lol )

ZTD

elantan wrote: »

I think it's because we're a single brick house but we can get cavity insulation done either, there are boards that we can buy that cuts out heat loss but the ones that would do the job were something like £75 or so per board and we would need a lot of boards

It depends on the size of the room (as it'll make them smaller), but normal wallboards combined with stuck-on shiny insulation with an airgap between them and the real wall work well. The bigger the gap, the better the insulation - right up to the point where convection currents start again when the insulation properties drop like a rock. It's exactly the principle behind double glazing, except you can't see through it.

elantan wrote: »

I think it's not helped by the fact that although we only have a two bedroom house we do have quite big rooms and lots of spare rooms as well ( well when I say lots I mean we have 10 rooms a long hallway and a staircase )

It shouldn't be too bad provided it's not all open plan. You keep a "core" warm, and let the "extremities" be colder. Just beware of damp (that's the dew point rearing its ugly head again).

Do you have high ceilings?

skint_spice wrote: »

LOL, I was wondering too - torture chamber, dungeon... :rotfl::rotfl:

Now we know why you wanted to move into a bigger house earlier in the year... :eek:

elantan

I think we do have damp z in the upstairs bathroom ( above the bath) its the outside wall so I think the heat from the bath mixed with the outside wall causes the dampness ( although I could easily be wrong)

We don't have high ceilings except for the living room as that is one of those slanted ceilings ( higher above the living room window, lower at the back of the room)

We had looked at the board idea ( and that is what we want to do eventually) we discounted the one with the silver backing though as it only stopped so much heat escaping ( I can't remember exact figures it was a good while ago we looked) it will reduce the size of the room and were ok with that as the rooms we will be putting it in are the downstairs and we don't really use those rooms much, I think I'd we can get that sorted the upstairs will heat up as well

beanielou

My bathroom must have this dew point thing.

ZTD

elantan wrote: »

I think we do have damp z in the upstairs bathroom ( above the bath) its the outside wall so I think the heat from the bath mixed with the outside wall causes the dampness ( although I could easily be wrong)

It is highly likely to be something wrong with your downpipe/waste pipes - as in a leak.

elantan wrote: »

We had looked at the board idea ( and that is what we want to do eventually) we discounted the one with the silver backing though as it only stopped so much heat escaping ( I can't remember exact figures it was a good while ago we looked)

The gap will stop a certain amount of heat escaping as it effectivly is an air gap (poor conductivity with inhibited convection) and the silver will stop it escaping by radiation (which is why glass thermos flasks have silvered glass).

You don't need boards with silver backing, you just need something coloured silver. Even paint would be better than nothing.

beanielou wrote: »

My bathroom must have this dew point thing.

Oops, looks like I'm using terms without explaining what they mean again...

In short: Air holds water sort-of "dissolved" in it. This is humidity. The amount of water it can hold (specified as a specific weight of water in a specific weight of air) depends on the temperature - the higher the temperature, the more water it can "dissolve".

Obviously the amount of water in a given amount of air is the smallest of

1. The amount of water present
2. The carrying capacity of the air

Once the amount of water rises enough, or the temperature falls enough, the two lines above will become equal. This is the dew point. Any more water, or any colder and the water starts coming out of the air. This is the point where people say "It feels/smells damp."

If you *really* shove a lot of water into the air, or you really drop the temperature then enough comes out so that you can see it. That's fog, and I'm sure everyone has had fog in their bathroom before...

Applying heat to damp air will not effectively raise the temperature until the water "dissolves" back into the air, just like heating a boiling saucepan won't raise it's temperature above 100C until it boils dry. See "Enthalphy of vaporisation"