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What should I pay to replace my bathroom as follows:
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fulmer
Posts: 8 Forumite

I am having my bathroom refitted - it's approximately 7' x 6'6" on the ground floor of a four story block of flats. It's a small bathroom, but there is a long big list of jobs.
How much would I expect to have to pay for labour:
The bathroom is the original from 1972.
Remove a hollow cavity wall consisting of two large boards which hide the soil pipe going through the building, remove a row of floor to ceiling breeze blocks approximately 2' wide forming the side of the cavity wall in between it and the airing cupboard.
Remove the airing cupboard door on that wall and save it for later, and remove the door frame. Remove a line of breeze blocks to the left of the airing cupboard door.
Two switches for the hot water tank also have to be moved further inside the airing cupboard as they are in line with the part of the wall which is being removed.
The hot water tank has two elements. Replace the faulty one.
Remove the bath, sink, toilet and shower.
Attach a narrow false wall against the wall of the exposed 'extension' and box around the soil pipe.
Replace all the old metal pipes in the bathroom and install a new stopcock in the airing cupboard, cutting off the old one.
Tile the floor.
Build a false wall in front of the pipes to hide them. This will run the entire height of the bathroom.
Install a shower with all piping to go behind the false wall.
Install an illuminated mirror with all wiring to go behind the same false wall.
Install a P-shaped bath, shower screen, toilet and sink including taps.
Build a side for the bath and tile it.
Build a false ceiling with room for four spotlights in each corner. Build a set of wiring which will power the lights, shower and mirror, all to be hidden above the false ceiling.
Fit the spotlights.
Plaster and paint the false ceiling.
Replace the low powered wiring of the old shower with electrics for a 9.8kw shower. The supply is in the cupboard in the communal hall opposite the flat where the rest of the power supply to the flat is situated.
Remove the pull cords for the old light and shower.
Drill a hole for a regular light switch through to the hallway outside the bathroom, and another for the shower higher up the wall and fit the new switches.
The bathroom has no door or frame. Build a frame and attach a door.
Tile all the walls from floor to ceiling. Build a new frame for the airing cupboard door and reattach the door, paint it and attach a handle.
Fit a toilet roll holder, soap dish, tumbler holder and toilet brush to the wall.
Remove the reasonably new taps from the old bath and replace the kitchen taps with them.
I think that's it. The work is being done by one very skilled man who is a qualified electrician, with some assistance from a labourer.
He will be collecting everything from the shops except for the bath, and will remove the old bathroom, breeze blocks, etc.
I live in Sussex.
How much would I expect to have to pay for labour:
The bathroom is the original from 1972.
Remove a hollow cavity wall consisting of two large boards which hide the soil pipe going through the building, remove a row of floor to ceiling breeze blocks approximately 2' wide forming the side of the cavity wall in between it and the airing cupboard.
Remove the airing cupboard door on that wall and save it for later, and remove the door frame. Remove a line of breeze blocks to the left of the airing cupboard door.
Two switches for the hot water tank also have to be moved further inside the airing cupboard as they are in line with the part of the wall which is being removed.
The hot water tank has two elements. Replace the faulty one.
Remove the bath, sink, toilet and shower.
Attach a narrow false wall against the wall of the exposed 'extension' and box around the soil pipe.
Replace all the old metal pipes in the bathroom and install a new stopcock in the airing cupboard, cutting off the old one.
Tile the floor.
Build a false wall in front of the pipes to hide them. This will run the entire height of the bathroom.
Install a shower with all piping to go behind the false wall.
Install an illuminated mirror with all wiring to go behind the same false wall.
Install a P-shaped bath, shower screen, toilet and sink including taps.
Build a side for the bath and tile it.
Build a false ceiling with room for four spotlights in each corner. Build a set of wiring which will power the lights, shower and mirror, all to be hidden above the false ceiling.
Fit the spotlights.
Plaster and paint the false ceiling.
Replace the low powered wiring of the old shower with electrics for a 9.8kw shower. The supply is in the cupboard in the communal hall opposite the flat where the rest of the power supply to the flat is situated.
Remove the pull cords for the old light and shower.
Drill a hole for a regular light switch through to the hallway outside the bathroom, and another for the shower higher up the wall and fit the new switches.
The bathroom has no door or frame. Build a frame and attach a door.
Tile all the walls from floor to ceiling. Build a new frame for the airing cupboard door and reattach the door, paint it and attach a handle.
Fit a toilet roll holder, soap dish, tumbler holder and toilet brush to the wall.
Remove the reasonably new taps from the old bath and replace the kitchen taps with them.
I think that's it. The work is being done by one very skilled man who is a qualified electrician, with some assistance from a labourer.
He will be collecting everything from the shops except for the bath, and will remove the old bathroom, breeze blocks, etc.
I live in Sussex.
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Comments
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I am having my bathroom refitted - it's approximately 7' x 6'6" on the ground floor of a four story block of flats. It's a small bathroom, but there is a long big list of jobs.
How much would I expect to have to pay for labour:
The bathroom is the original from 1972.
Remove a hollow cavity wall consisting of two large boards which hide the soil pipe going through the building, remove a row of floor to ceiling breeze blocks approximately 2' wide forming the side of the cavity wall in between it and the airing cupboard.
Remove the airing cupboard door on that wall and save it for later, and remove the door frame. Remove a line of breeze blocks to the left of the airing cupboard door.
Two switches for the hot water tank also have to be moved further inside the airing cupboard as they are in line with the part of the wall which is being removed.
The hot water tank has two elements. Replace the faulty one.
Remove the bath, sink, toilet and shower.
Attach a narrow false wall against the wall of the exposed 'extension' and box around the soil pipe.
Replace all the old metal pipes in the bathroom and install a new stopcock in the airing cupboard, cutting off the old one.
Tile the floor.
Build a false wall in front of the pipes to hide them. This will run the entire height of the bathroom.
Install a shower with all piping to go behind the false wall.
Install an illuminated mirror with all wiring to go behind the same false wall.
Install a P-shaped bath, shower screen, toilet and sink including taps.
Build a side for the bath and tile it.
Build a false ceiling with room for four spotlights in each corner. Build a set of wiring which will power the lights, shower and mirror, all to be hidden above the false ceiling.
Fit the spotlights.
Plaster and paint the false ceiling.
Replace the low powered wiring of the old shower with electrics for a 9.8kw shower. The supply is in the cupboard in the communal hall opposite the flat where the rest of the power supply to the flat is situated.
Remove the pull cords for the old light and shower.
Drill a hole for a regular light switch through to the hallway outside the bathroom, and another for the shower higher up the wall and fit the new switches.
The bathroom has no door or frame. Build a frame and attach a door.
Tile all the walls from floor to ceiling. Build a new frame for the airing cupboard door and reattach the door, paint it and attach a handle.
Fit a toilet roll holder, soap dish, tumbler holder and toilet brush to the wall.
Remove the reasonably new taps from the old bath and replace the kitchen taps with them.
I think that's it. The work is being done by one very skilled man who is a qualified electrician, with some assistance from a labourer.
He will be collecting everything from the shops except for the bath, and will remove the old bathroom, breeze blocks, etc.
I live in Sussex.
That is quite a lot of work!
Without actually seeing it, it's almost impossible to say what a fair price is.
Much depends on the quality of the fittings being used, and the quality of the work and finish being provided by the tradesman.
If you are already happy with his competence and previous work, and have already given him the work based on his quote, then you already feel he is worth paying for.
Good luck:)
P.S. Be aware that there is notifiable electrical work involved, so you should therefore be expecting an installation certificate.Nothing is foolproof, as fools are so ingenious!0 -
It is usual to get three quotes to get an idea of cost. As tartanterra says, price depends on exactly what is done, the standard of work, and what the trades person thinks they can charge.
You say the person is highly skilled. I hope that is on the basis of a recommendation from someone you know and trust. I know to my cost that some tradespeople are rogues, and price is no indicator of skill level. Do not use review sites such as CheckATrade as an indicator of quality either. Skilled people turn down work, as they are in demand, and those on CheckATrade etc are likely to be, errr, not so skilled shall we say.
It sounds like you have defined the work well, and know what to expect, which is good.Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0 -
Hi...you have a electrician quoting to install a bathroom?
CanuckleheadAsk to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)0 -
Canucklehead?
He is many things - an electrician is one of them.0 -
I thought that to be on Checkatrade, workmen had to be of good quality and their work was checked and you could get references, so your comment about not trusting the site has surprised me.0
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Having just had bathrooms replaced by a combination of time-served plumber, joiner, plasterer and electrician, I'm surprised that one man will be doing all this with just a little assistance from a labourer.
In our case, the plumber charged around £25 per hour, estimated no. of hours upfront, and billed us for a total time within 5 hours of his estimate over a fortnight's work. The joiner specced the work in advance, and billed us for a figure that matched his upfront estimate. The plasterer and electrician were onsite for less than a day each, so their bills were notional in the big scheme of things.
How long does your man estimate it will take? Is he billing you by the hour, or quoting you a total figure upfront?0 -
I thought that to be on Checkatrade, workmen had to be of good quality and their work was checked and you could get references, so your comment about not trusting the site has surprised me.
See here:
https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/3520781
These people are on CheckATrade with loads of very very good reviews. I have had three independent surveys done which confirm that the tiling is poor, and adhesion is so low that tiles almost fall off. There are many other faults, but I won't bore you with details. Suffice to say, they are cowboys, and I had to have the entire bathroom redone from scratch. I might have lost a lot of money. CheckATrade don't seem to be taking this seriously.
I had another builder from CheckATrade. Some good work, but lots of issues, such as scratched radiators and a damaged kitchen window frame, and very hard to deal with. I would not recommend them, as I do not trust the project manager one inch due to repeated promises to do something the next day, and either doing it weeks later, or not at all.
The above two went out of their way to be my best friend. Smarming the customer was the norm. Probably because people do not like to write bad things about people they like i.e. they wanted a good CheckATrade review.
I've dealt with several people not on CheckATrade, recommended to me by friends/colleagues or independent reviews sites: a tiler, a kitchen design and installation company, and a bathroom fitter. All were very very good. None tried to be my best friend. They got on with the work, and did good jobs, with no !!!!!!!!.
CheckATrade is paid for by trades people, not you and me. It is an advertising site. As numerous trades have told me, it they are any good, they have no problem finding work, and do not need to pay an advertising site to get jobs.Warning: This forum may contain nuts.0 -
A lot to do, so 10 days. Not got a figure yet, he is working it out.0
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Where in Sussex are you? Ive found a superb plumber in the Eastbourne area who has done three complete bathrooms for me so far0
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Installing a bathroom is not rocket science. A competent DIYer could do that lot without too much trouble. Most of it is just general DIY, but carried out in or near a bathroom. There is certainly nothing there that I haven't tackled at one time or another. Having said that, the specification listed is pretty extensive and, I would think, it might be quite difficult to come up with an accurate quote. I don't think that 10 days is realistic for just one man. Even if he has the help of a labourer. The problem with bathrooms, is that usually they are too small for more than one person to work at the same time. But all jobs have completely different problems.I can afford anything that I want.
Just so long as I don't want much.0
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