A few pointers please on stove install

RHYSDAD

Okay, we're going for our installation this Sunday. We've had a pre-fit visit from the building inspector and he's happy with hearth etc so we're going to actually install this Sunday. if there are any fitters here who can give any tips on the following we'd be very grateful!

My Charnwood has to be 3" from the rear wall. In order to achieve this without the stove pipe fouling the fireplace lintel inside the chimney, we've had to buy two 30° angled joins in order to shunt the stove forward a bit and allow the clearance to the rear of the stove whilst allowing the stove pipe to extend into the chimney breast without fouling it. My query is though can i do away with the 500mm stove pipe and just allow the two 30° joints and then the expanding collar that connects to the flexible flue or do i need the two angled joints, a straight piece of stove pipe and then the expanding joint to flexy liner? Can i do away with the 500mm section?

Next query is when connecting it all together:
Obviously the liner is overmeasured to allow for some shortening to the correct length. When we've worked it down the chimney stack and ascertained it's length we'll need to cut to length and then connect it all together from the stove up. As it's a tight fit up our stack and the pipe collar will be at more than arms length inside the breast, do you connect the flexy liner to the collar with appropriate fire rope and cement etc, in the fireplaxce and then push it up adding the other pipes working downward to the stove as you go? I know that sounds a bit double dutch but i think i've put the gist across. What i mean is that with everything in situ, it's too far to reach up and stuff the fire rope and fire cement into the collar. I'm planning to do that in the lounge where i can reach it and then gently work it up into the chimney breast adding the two 30° joints below it as i go thus reaching the stove.
As for connecting it all together, Fire cement. Do you smear a fair old bit of fire cement on both the connecting ends to the pipes and will this still keep it's seal when i'm pushing it back up into the chimney breast? And lastly (i think) With the spigot end seated in the stove and the expanding collar sitting inside the stove pipe, what's the best way to achieve the seal between the collar and the stove pipe. Presently the collar section sits within the vitreous section IE: the vitreous pipe overlaps the downmost part of the expanding collar. Do i jam some fire rope between the two sections and plenty of cement (i'm trying to keep the flue as smooth as possible internally and i'm worried that stuffing too much cement might compromise it) I think this is clear (as mud) but if anyone can offer any tips/solutions to any of my queries i'd be very grateful!! Ta, RD.

alleycat`

I'm not a fitter but can you not "come out of the back" of the stove?

Using one of these:-

http://www.stovepipecompany.co.uk/assets/images/DSC00155_.jpg

I suspect that there is a rule about the distance before the first "bend" happens?

welda

I'll try me best, but I'm no fitter. (I did my own install too).

My Charnwood has to be 3" from the rear wall. In order to achieve this without the stove pipe fouling the fireplace lintel inside the chimney, we've had to buy two 30° angled joins in order to shunt the stove forward a bit and allow the clearance to the rear of the stove whilst allowing the stove pipe to extend into the chimney breast without fouling it. My query is though can i do away with the 500mm stove pipe and just allow the two 30° joints and then the expanding collar that connects to the flexible flue or do i need the two angled joints, a straight piece of stove pipe and then the expanding joint to flexy liner? Can i do away with the 500mm section?

I don't see why not, I have about 350mm from rear exit point of stove before fitting into 90 degree swept bend, which is 5" at stove end, 6" at liner end. No probs at all for me, are you exiting from rear or top of stove?

Next query is when connecting it all together:
Obviously the liner is overmeasured to allow for some shortening to the correct length. When we've worked it down the chimney stack and ascertained it's length we'll need to cut to length and then connect it all together from the stove up.

I did the same, excess liner at bottom, which then fitted into 6" end of swept bend, basically, once both ends are mated, pushed upwards, I made a bracket to support and, take downward weight forces. No problems to date!

As it's a tight fit up our stack and the pipe collar will be at more than arms length inside the breast, do you connect the flexy liner to the collar with appropriate fire rope and cement etc, in the fireplaxce and then push it up adding the other pipes working downward to the stove as you go? I know that sounds a bit double dutch but i think i've put the gist across. What i mean is that with everything in situ, it's too far to reach up and stuff the fire rope and fire cement into the collar. I'm planning to do that in the lounge where i can reach it and then gently work it up into the chimney breast adding the two 30° joints below it as i go thus reaching the stove.

Tight fit up my stack too . I did a pre-assemble test prior, felt marked each part where they fitted best, if you can, take up large gaps with fire rope, then seal with fire cement, I've never used the tube stuff, but it may be a better option to seal along with fire rope, cement does break of with expansion, and contraction.

As for connecting it all together, Fire cement. Do you smear a fair old bit of fire cement on both the connecting ends to the pipes and will this still keep it's seal when i'm pushing it back up into the chimney breast? And lastly (i think) With the spigot end seated in the stove and the expanding collar sitting inside the stove pipe, what's the best way to achieve the seal between the collar and the stove pipe. Presently the collar section sits within the vitreous section IE: the vitreous pipe overlaps the downmost part of the expanding collar. Do i jam some fire rope between the two sections and plenty of cement (i'm trying to keep the flue as smooth as possible internally and i'm worried that stuffing too much cement might compromise it) I think this is clear (as mud) but if anyone can offer any tips/solutions to any of my queries i'd be very grateful!! Ta, RD.

As above, silicon tube stuff and, fire cement, have both at hand, as said, cement does break up over time, that said, I imagine any cement well feed into gaps will be fine.

Between collar and stove pipe, I stuffed with fire rope, then sealed with cement.

One other point of signifcance. At rear exit spigot, I drilled a hole through cast steel and enamel 5" flu pipe. I found this helped to hold it all together while cement dried out, in other words, do not be afraid to drill, and fix parts together, I bolted using stainless steel nut and bolt, I reckon decent size pop rivets will do too!

HTH and good luck......who got short straw to feed liner down chimney??

:beer:

RHYSDAD

I won't quote your whole post Welda as it'll take too much page! Thanks for your tips. I think it'll just come to us when we actually do it all, we understand what we've got to achieve but it's just gEtting it visualised in our head before we start. We're going out the top using the 2 angled joints and we'll see from there if we need the straight piece of stove pipe. I think key is to think it all out, do it in sequence and take our time and it'll (should) just fall into place. Did you light the burner to get the fire cement to harden or did you wait for council inspector to give approval? Ta!!

welda

Hi,

Yes it will all fall into place, start at top, feeding liner down, leaving suffice at bottom, secure top to cowel, I used hanging cowel, thats top end done.

You in your head what has to be done, of course there will adjustments as you progress.


I lit the burner, been waiting over three year for council jobworth to appear, maybe I forgot to call him? :shhh:

:beer:

w50nky

There is no minimum length of vitrious flue pipe required in the regs although the recommended minimum is 600mm . The enamelled stove pipe can withstand the intense heat in this area best. I think your 2 offset bends will give you around 500 mm mean length by themselves. You can cut down a straight length of stove pipe to extend to your required length. Use only fire cement to join lengths of flue pipe and secure by drilling and screwing through each joint with stainless self tappers. As welda said you can insert fire stove rope and fire cement to connect your MA adaptor to your flexi pipe and stove pipe. Again secure with stainless self tappers ( the MA adaptor may already be drilled for you). The silicon stuff in a tube is not meant to be used in areas exposed to naked flames. It will ignite if too hot. Meant to be used in fire breaks in buildings.
Connect all of the lower end pieces and pull up excess liner. Then site and level your stove and connect to the flue pipe securing again with self tappers. Then make good up top, cutting liner to size and fitting pot, cowl etc. You will have to decide how your register plate is fitted during this of course.

Make sure you fit your liner the right way up!

Have fun but be carefull up on top!

Good info here... http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/lining_a_chimney.html