Problem getting paint to stick to ceiling

Please can anyone offer any advice on a problem we are having in painting our bk bedroom ceiling. We have stripped off the old wallpaper, sanded down the ceiling, PVA'd the ceiling and yet in places the paint refuses to adhere to it and bubbles and then splits and peels off. We have scraped the paint of numerous times:eek: and tried and tried again but we are still getting the bubbling and peeling in places:mad: I would be soooo grateful for any ideas on how to solve this problem.

Thanks

betty
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Comments

  • misgrace
    misgrace Posts: 1,486 Forumite
    Betty, one of the most common reasons is that you have PVAed your ceiling, why did you do that?, if you have stripped prepped and sanded it down, you would only have had to use a thin coat first of emulsion, then your normal coats.
    The other reason could be is that you have used silk or soft sheen on top of the PVA.
    There is no need to PVA any ceilings or walls prior to painting, leave the PVA to the plasterers.

    2 options here,scrape back the bubbling, and give the ceiling a real good sanding down, and try and remove as much of the PVA as you can, and then do your filling where you will have rough areas.
    Sand, and paint with a good quality paint,(matt) thinned down 30% for the first coat, then thin down about 10% for the 2nd coat, and do 3rd coat as normal.

    The other option is to rub down ceiling, make good any prep, and line with either 1200 0r 1400 lining paper.

    Was the ceiling paint originally a silk?, as PVA and silk do not mix.

    Hope this helps a bit.
  • Thanks for your reply, the ceiling had woodchip on and years and years of paint on top of it, we thought once we scraped off the papaer and sanded down, that the natural thing was to PVA it.....oops looks like we made a mistake, but why has the paint covered and stuck to most of the ceiling and not in patches??? will give it another go sanding back the patches and doing like you said.

    Thanks very much

    Betty
  • misgrace
    misgrace Posts: 1,486 Forumite
    Hi Betty, I cant tell why is goes in patches, thats what PVA does unforunately, there has been a good few post on here over the months where people have PVAed walls etc, but only a small part of the wall is affected.
    But if you do like I suggested you should have no problems, I am a P&D by trade, and I learned the hard way with PVA and other things lol.
    Good luck, and let us know how you get on.:D
  • PVA is only for newly platered surfaces. Then again you mix a cup full in water and roll on the new plaster. I am afraid I I think you will have to sound your new surface and start again....
  • misgrace
    misgrace Posts: 1,486 Forumite
    Mr Warren, PVA is not for new plastered surfaces prior to painting, yes plasterers use it , but there is no need what so ever to use any PVA prior to painting new plaster, unfortunatly a lot of DIYers make the mistake as they have been lead to believe this sometimes by other trades or TV programes, but it is a myth, and can cause soooooo much grief its unbelievable.
  • ritesh
    ritesh Posts: 394 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    Hi, I have just recently had my whole house replastered, PVA was used as a bonding agent. Prior to the walls being replastered they were coated with PVA, allowed to dry and new plaster skimmed on top. PVA should not then be painted over the new plaster.

    Unlucky bettyboop61. Hope the sanding works out fine for you (fingers crossed)
    "I think I spent 72.75% of my life last year in the office. I need a new job!!"
  • Pure PVA no I agree but diluted PVA yes as it blocks the pores of the plaster and stops you painting gallons of paint that would normally get absorbed into plaster. Remember the question asked originally and you might see that my answer covers the subject.
    I have just completed the painting of my conservatory before Christmas, rolled/brushed diluted PVA on new surfaces (and I mean diluted) then once dried painted with a good emulsion. Looks great, does not bubble etc etc.
  • BobProperty
    BobProperty Posts: 3,245 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Mr_Warren wrote:
    Pure PVA no I agree but diluted PVA yes as it blocks the pores of the plaster and stops you painting gallons of paint that would normally get absorbed into plaster. Remember the question asked originally and you might see that my answer covers the subject.
    I have just completed the painting of my conservatory before Christmas, rolled/brushed diluted PVA on new surfaces (and I mean diluted) then once dried painted with a good emulsion. Looks great, does not bubble etc etc.
    Post back in 6 months please, I'm with misgrace on this one. PVA goes "live" again when it gets wet.
    A house isn't a home without a cat.
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  • It's hard to believe the number of people who misuse PVA. it seems that people use it on any surface for any application! There was even a post on here where someone said you should PVA old tiling before tiling over the old in a shower!!! They've obvioulsy never tried to steam off unfranked stamps before! Dont put butter on burns either!
    To try and help- If uve used neat or a high concentration it will not have soaked in very far so you may be able to sand it off. You could also try painting it with an oil base undercoat or gloss 1st. This may seal it and provide a barrier between the PVA and the water based emulsion.
    Good luck!
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  • misgrace
    misgrace Posts: 1,486 Forumite
    I'm with bob and andrew on this one,there is only a very small percentage of people who havent had any comebacks with the PVA

    I agree with the undercoat, as long as its the oilbase, as U/C is flatter and matter, and emulsion grips to it better.:D
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