Woodburners, installation and conflicting advice!

suki1964

smcqis wrote: »

about 2000 is the going rate for all the work you need done this is what we need done, including plastering the whole chimney breast and we were quoted 1900 (which includes the 500 pound stove).

to be fair, thats the rate in NI where labour is a lot cheaper. It would for instance be a lot dearer in London and the SW

smcqis

suki1964 wrote: »

to be fair, thats the rate in NI where labour is a lot cheaper. It would for instance be a lot dearer in London and the SW

That is true, the labour charge in that was 750 which I thought was a bit expensive

welda

highrisklowreturn wrote: »

If you don't want tar don't get a register plate, simple. The excess heat into the chimney will carry more junk away.

And while your at it, open all windows and doors for heat to escape, that'll carry more junk away too, while you shell out more for fuel!!!

Incredible.......

RHYSDAD

welda wrote: »

Ouch, that does sound a tad dear!! What are your fire opening dimensions? My own opening was tight to work around, but was do-able, works a treat, stove sit on hearth, non inglenook, meets regs standards re; dimensions around stove and hearth, basically looks like this below.

liner>| |
Stove> []--|--^ |=vertical register plate.
^<hori flu pipe.

Re; stainless liner, unless you have eyes on stocks, how can you decide if chimney is safe and sound, a good sweep is your best bet to advise on chimney soundness!

I've mentioned this before on here, personally I had to line my chimney (three pots on stack) as chimney to be used for stove was breached, meaning, did a smoke test, smoke from pellet low as it exited top of stack, bedroom above, which has fireplace closed off, and vented, full of pellet smoke. So obviously no choice but to line. But I can actually see the wisdom of lining, IF there were a chimney fire way down the road after initial install, flame is contained within SS liner, for me, a small price to pay for piece of mind. Then you have potential tarring problems if no liner is in place, when we are over in France, house next door has ugly tar stains at top of house wall, were stack starts to protrude at eves roof level, not a pretty site I assure you.

HTH?

Regards.........

Oops, my drawing attemp looked fine prior to posting, has moved a little, see what I can do with edit function?

liner>| |
Stove> []--|--^ |=vertical register plate.
^<hori flu pipe.

"sigh" still no good :-(

Welda, can you post a pic of your stove please as my own installation means i'll have 3" either side of the stove, 2" to the rear and about 2" above......we have the council man coming round before we start so we'll see if that's okay. Charnwood recommend 6" to the sides and 12" above but i've called them and they say it's okay on half that.

highrisklowreturn

welda wrote: »

And while your at it, open all windows and doors for heat to escape, that'll carry more junk away too, while you shell out more for fuel!!!

Incredible.......

What utter crap. Most people use stoves to heat a confined space. Stoves operate at an optimum level when burning at full pelt, meaning you are going to use a fixed amount of fuel, per evening, to bring it fully up to speed. You will do this in order to get the maximum benefit irrespective of whether or not you have a register plate.

Eg. I use circa 4/5 of a bucket of coal to fill a 6kw stove and keep it burning for 5 hours at night. I would use exactly the same amount to burn for an equivalent time and to reach the same temperature and stove performance irrespective of whether there is a register plate in at all. The only difference is I'm saving the cost of 1 tonne of coal by not getting one in.

Greenfires

hr - this is only my personal opinion mate - but I thought your posts on this forum had improved no end just lately - until this one!

You really can't believe that a stove without a register plate is going to be anywhere near as efficient as one with can you? The whole idea of a stove is "control" - and you can run one efficiently at a good bit less than flat out. Clean combustion is what you're after and with good dry fuel you can get there with the air controls half closed or more. The stove manufacturers have gone to a lot of trouble to try and make the thing as efficient as they can - so they restrict the flow of hot gases from the firebox up the chimney. If the stove itself is sitting in an open chimney though - most of the benefit of having it in the first place is gone - as most of the heat will go straight up. With a register plate to stop it, you'll get convection etc which will move the hot air from the fireplace into the room. They don't just fit them for fun y'know! It's not a particularly good comparison, but you could have a stove in a wind tunnel operating flat out at a high temperature - but if you were sat at the wrong end of the tunnel - you probably wouldn't feel the heat of the stove at all!

Anyway - too busy to get into an argument about it - so I'll leave it there!

Cheers,

Andy

Williwoodburner

Greenfires wrote: »

hr - this is only my personal opinion mate - but I thought your posts on this forum had improved no end just lately - until this one!

You really can't believe that a stove without a register plate is going to be anywhere near as efficient as one with can you? The whole idea of a stove is "control" - and you can run one efficiently at a good bit less than flat out. Clean combustion is what you're after and with good dry fuel you can get there with the air controls half closed or more. The stove manufacturers have gone to a lot of trouble to try and make the thing as efficient as they can - so they restrict the flow of hot gases from the firebox up the chimney. If the stove itself is sitting in an open chimney though - most of the benefit of having it in the first place is gone - as most of the heat will go straight up. With a register plate to stop it, you'll get convection etc which will move the hot air from the fireplace into the room. They don't just fit them for fun y'know! It's not a particularly good comparison, but you could have a stove in a wind tunnel operating flat out at a high temperature - but if you were sat at the wrong end of the tunnel - you probably wouldn't feel the heat of the stove at all!

Anyway - too busy to get into an argument about it - so I'll leave it there!

Cheers,

Andy

My thoughts exactly.

welda

highrisklowreturn wrote: »

What utter crap.

Greenfires post is an inpeccable answer to your statement above!!

Regards............

welda

RHYSDAD wrote: »

Welda, can you post a pic of your stove please as my own installation means i'll have 3" either side of the stove, 2" to the rear and about 2" above......we have the council man coming round before we start so we'll see if that's okay. Charnwood recommend 6" to the sides and 12" above but i've called them and they say it's okay on half that.

I don't know how to post a pic here? Regarding your dimensions, reads a bit on the tight side, hard to believe Charnwood specify former dimensions, then say the latter will do, I would certainly question this????


I followed manufacturer clearance spec, which complies with BC regs, my box sits out on a hearth, when I say it was a "tight fit" I was referring to access space within the chimney, I installed a vertical reg plate, rather than the normal horizontal one within the chimney, and I was told this would be ok by local stove shop, it is well sealed where hori stove pipe goes through and meets swept 90 degree bend.

HTH?

Regards........

highrisklowreturn

Don't understand what really you mean. My stove pipe runs into the clay lined chimney pipe, around which is brickwork, meaning the chimney isn't "open". Are you saying I need a register plate around the stove pipe, underneath this chimney brickwork, and that that will deflect a large amount more heat into the room?