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German electric storage radiators
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wrong thread0
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All electric heaters are 100% efficient but they are much more efficient in running costs as you get the heat only when you require it. (Farho heaters do this and have individual thermostats onboard also.) Storage heaters are also 100% efficient but not so efficient on running costs because you get the heat when you don't require it (and even when you do want the heat it has usually dissipated most of its heat already throughout the early part of the day)
The only bonus with storage heaters that can possibly even things out a little is that it runs on cheaper electric with economy 7...0 -
All electric heaters are 100% efficient but they are much more efficient in running costs as you get the heat only when you require it. (Farho heaters do this and have individual thermostats onboard also.) Storage heaters are also 100% efficient but not so efficient on running costs because you get the heat when you don't require it (and even when you do want the heat it has usually dissipated most of its heat already throughout the early part of the day)
The only bonus with storage heaters that can possibly even things out a little is that it runs on cheaper electric with economy 7...
They are not 100% efficient as they may emit light or sound (from the motor that turns a fan etc.)
Just put a jumper on!0 -
They are not 100% efficient as they may emit light or sound (from the motor that turns a fan etc.)
They are 100% efficient!
What do you think happens to the energy used for the light and sound?
Put a World War Two 1kW searchlight in a room and it will produce as much heat as a 1kW electrical heater of any type.
If you don't agree, read what a guy called Albert Einstein wrote!0 -
I realise this is an old topic.
If you fill one of the radiators with salt water and the other with fresh water the one with the salt water will warm quicker and cool slower.
I am an electrician. I found this post looking for some decent information about the performance of these heaters.
A 2KW element is a 2KW element. Any two, 2KW elements will burn the same amount of energy for the amount of time that they are switched on. (Assuming they are identical twins!)
The salt water radiator will heat quicker, which will allow the element to go off sooner. It will also cool slower which will allow the element to be off longer. The element will be on less often and for a shorter duration and as a result will consume less energy whilst maintaining the same heat.
The heat retention properties of the contents (???) of the heater make a potentially massive difference to the performance of the heater and therefore a potentially massive difference to it's efficiency (running cost.)
I have issues with storage heaters, none of them are addressed in this post.
So, is Cardew's head filled with platinum or custard?
You decide.
An extremely unhelpful and ill-informed post.
How about filling with a solid block of salt? That way you MIGHT get 1000W out for every 1W input. Worth a try.0 -
I used to think about electric heating and think there was a difference. But the only thing that differs is the heat distribution and retention. The amount of heat is the same if the kw is the same.
These companies con people by playing with words. Yes certain types, might stay warm for longer but not warmer. The amount of heat is the same.
At least that#s what I've got from reading these threads.Nice to save.0 -
Earlier posts are interesting and at times amusing.
The misunderstanding in all of the posts is that a KW is a unit of energy. It is not. It is a unit of power (as BHP). A KWhour is the electrical unit of energy.
Let the discussion resume on this basis and a true answer will be found.0 -
Earlier posts are interesting and at times amusing.
The misunderstanding in all of the posts is that a KW is a unit of energy. It is not. It is a unit of power (as BHP). A KWhour is the electrical unit of energy.
Let the discussion resume on this basis and a true answer will be found.
Welcome to the forum; how nice to see yet another first time poster contributing to a thread on electrical heaters.
A misunderstanding in all the posts?
True there are a couple of posts where the wrong terminology is used, but the meaning is quite clear.
However most of the posts are correct in their use of the term kW(note not KW) e.g. a 2kW heater.
Similarly a kWh is used correctly and in context, e.g a 2kW heater drawing that power for, say, 30 minutes will use 1kWh.
So what 'true answer' is there to be found?
Do you not agree that all electrical heaters, regardless of cost, will produce the same amount of heat( measured in calories/BTu/Joules) for the same cost?
Or have you a heater in mind that doesn't obey the above?0 -
Hi, so I have been following a number of these posts for some time, I understand the 100% efficient info etc. What I am trying and failing to figure out / decide on is what is going to work out cheaper to heat my house.
I have no gas and no option to get it. Currently running storage heaters that look to be originals from the house being built in 1971 !
They are next to useless, even at full input and out put at 1 all heat was gone by 6pm ! so was resorting to topping up with an oil filled rad.
I want to get the heating sorted before this winter, currently the 3 bed mid terrace has a large storage heater in the living room (4x5m room) a medium storage heater in the hall and a small storage heater in bedroom 1 & 2 with no heating in the box room. I intend to replace the storage from the bedrooms with either panel heaters or similar. What I cant decide / figure out is the best option for the living room and hall. I could replace the storage heaters with new ones but they will be the best part of £400 each and more if i go for combination. Or I could use something like the 1.5kw newelec oil filled panels that are timer control etc for less than £130 each. The peak rate for elec is 12.4p and off peak is 6.6p.
Do storage heaters take their max KW constantly for 7 hours and whats the likely hood of new ones actually retaining heat to keep the room around 21 degrees untill 11pm
If I ran the oil rads I am trying to figure how long they would need to be on per hour to maintain that sort of temperature.
And ignoring the ridiculous price of things like economy-radiators! is the principal of running peak rate heaters 24 hours to keep ambient temp around 18 then boosting for occupied times to say 21 more cost effective than leaving them off then whacking them on full when the room is occupied.
Any and all advice welcome !0 -
3dollarbill wrote: »What I am trying and failing to figure out / decide on is what is going to work out cheaper to heat my house.
Do storage heaters take their max KW constantly for 7 hours and whats the likely hood of new ones actually retaining heat to keep the room around 21 degrees untill 11pm
Welcome to the forum.
Depending on setting, storage heaters can take the max kW for 7 hours.
However I am afraid your other questions are of the 'how long is a piece of string' category.
The problem, as you state, is that Storage Heaters tend to 'leak' heat during the day and people have to resort to 'topping up' at peak rate electricity.
Several people have stated that modern storage heaters retain the heat better than the models of yesteryear! Albeit I have not seen any trial reports etc on that issue.
The insulation properties of the house will have a huge effect on the heat retention qualities of the house, and money spent on insulation should be the main priority. Being a mid-terrace house should help.
In any comparison of costs you should take into account that most(all?) hot water will be heated at off-peak rates. Also that the 'leaked' heat from the storage heater during the day warms the fabric of the house.
To counter that you pay extra on the peak rate(over a 24/7 tariff) on all other electricity.
If people are in the house during the day, I suspect that storage heating will be the best solution.
If out at work, then it might be better to use the panel heaters you suggest - but I doubt it will be.0
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