have I done something wrong with the install of my stove?

millsmum

welda wrote: »

A-holes words are reference to NI para-military groups, which in turn and, frm my point of view, see's this idiot drop to a level way below the bottom feeders!!!

Regards.

I thought it was but I didn't understand what he was trying to say?

millsmum

Greenfires wrote: »

Right then - from the photos it appears that the door seal is missing for starters. This will make the stove impossible to "turn down", and I'd guess that a lot of the heat will be going up the chimney with the greatly increased draught due to the missing seal.This would also explain why you're getting decent readings on the flue thermometer.

Also - kind of hard to tell from the pics - but is the glass sitting on the seal all the way round? Looks a bit like the seal is hanging out at the bottom edge. Again - more draught through the stove is more draught up the chimney.


That's my starter for ten!

oh thank you. I wondered why the fire always seem to be roaring. The seal on the glass goes all the way round. but as there were no seals or glass in the thing when we got it I have just replaced the bits that I knew were missing and that was not one of them. doh!

how much difference will it make? I was going to get rid of this and was looking at a stovex stockton 5 or 6 multi fuel!!

suki1964

do we have to quote the message? Just report it as I did when it first showed up

Perhaps those that have quoted can go in and delete it??

Greenfires

The Stovax stove will be much better all round basically. BUT - there's life in this one yet, so don't give up hope. A seal around the door will make a huge difference I think you'll find - you'll use a lot less fuel, and get more heat from the stove at the same time, as all it's hard work isn't being whooshed straight up the chimney.

If you're burning only wood, then get into the habit of closing the bottom air control completely once the fuel is well alight, and just control the stove using the top one. Also get out of the habit of cleaning out the ash all the time - let it build up to the level of the firebars if possible. If you're using smokeless, then do pretty much the opposite for control and cleaning out routines.

When you've sorted the door seal, and with the stove running and the door closed - run an incense stick or a candle around the door edge and glass. If the seals are working properly the smoke or flame won't be drawn into the stove.

Keep us posted too!

Andy

millsmum

If you haven't had it signed off - your house insurance is not going to pay out a penny if your house burns down Im afraid


o:eek: so how do you get it signed off?

muckybutt

You have to get in touch with building control at your local council, they will charge you to do the inspection and issue a compliance certificate .... but get everything done first that you need to ie the register plate sealed for starters. Have a look at http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADJ_2002.pdf to make sure everything that they require is done

millsmum

hi Muckybutt, thank you for your advice on my liner.
I'm planning on building and extension in the next 6 m onths, do you think they might sign it off when they come and inspect the building works or are they going to charge me again?

suki1964

Your stove will be a separate charge. But so make sure you have followed the regs before getting them to come out save having to do things again and getting charged again

grahamc2003

I've just bought the same stove pipe thermometer as you, and I find there are some peculiarities about it and how it reads.

I've noticed you've drilled your flue pipe to fix the magnetic thermometer, as indeed it tells you to do. But the screw supplied it quite long, and will be well into the exhaust air, so there'll be an element of over reading because the screw itself will warm and conduct heat to the guage. I didn't crew mine in - I find the magnet quite strong enough to hold it on the pipe, even when reading over 300C, 600F (overheating, so it says).

I was really surprised how quickly the stove pipe heats up - just a matter of a few minutes to get it to 200C ('normal'). The stove itself takes probably a further 20/25 minutes to get to that temperature - so don't expect masses of heat as soon as the thermometer reads 200C.

I had no idea what temp I ran mine at. I find a reading of 200C too low to give out lots of heat, and I try to keep mine at 250C (500F), which then chucks out the heat, which the thermometer says is overheating. Can't see what harm it does (and no, my wooden surrund hasn't ignited/charred or otherwise been damaged, and the wood at the side hasn't caught fire, and I haven't been gassed, and the fire cement lasts at least a year before I need to re-cement).

It looks like youy're burning coal. I always get a really hot fire going with (dry) wood before putting coal on - simply because with my stove, coal smokes loads before burning (and I hate throwing fuel (smoke) away without burning it, as well as the crud it deposits in my chimney). Your glass is really grunged up - again meaning lots of smoke and poor buring, so no surprise the stove isn't getting hot (although your flue gases and possibly the flue pipe are getting warmish). Incidentally, your exposed flue pipe is a very short run, and I reckon a fair proportion of the heat from a stove is radiated by the stove pipe, and if a couple of feet or more aren't exposed to the room, you won't be getting the most amount of heat available.

As someone else said, the gap between the register plate and chimney may not be a great significance with a liner installed (correctly), but still, much of the convected heat hangs around in the stove cavity, and in your case, will simply go up the chimney (assuming the gap between the chinmney and liner hasn't been filled with insulating material), so you're losing heat there.

The other point - are you sure your stove is 100% complete? No missing 'plates' from inside the chamber to direct the gases along a longer path around the inside of the stove both to help with complete combustion, ands also to give more time for the gases to lose their heat to the stove? I don't know your stove at all, so perhaps someone who does could comment. (btw, ensure no rope seals are missing or mis installed!).

So, if I were you, aftre sorting out some the problems people have spotted, I would clean the glass, get some dry wood (pref palets like installers use to demo how to get the fire going - can't fail!) and follow the procedure of the firelighting in the video someone posted.

millsmum

quick update..... I have added a door seal, and blimey made a difference. but I am going to change it as I have no idea if its all here of not. and we hare going to create a larger room so will probably need some more btu's

tell me though will there be much difference between a 5 kw and 6kw ?

thanks all for the help, I am getting there.. slowley