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Bliming CURRYS whats a SPUR POINT?
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DVardysShadow wrote: »If it was designed to be installed this way, it would come with a moulded plug on the cable, I believe. AIUI, moulded plugs are now a requirement.
Cable wouldn't fit a standard moulded 3 pin plug for an electric cooker/oven/grill
Would it?
Tight squeeze.
Also I thought a cooker switch should say ON & OFF on it.
But hey. no expert.Not Again0 -
1984ReturnsForReal wrote: »Cable wouldn't fit a standard moulded 3 pin plug for an electric cooker/oven/grill
Would it?
Tight squeeze.Hi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure - MSE ForumTeam0 -
DVardysShadow wrote: »This point is moot. Either is comes with its own moulded 13A plug or it is not suitable for a 13A plug. There is never a need to fit a plug, so you never need to judge whether the cable will fit an unmoulded plug. AIUI
Its not a moot point.
Electric cookers don't come with 13A moulded plugs
However I did see a gas ovens ignition supply joined to a connector block & sparking right next to a stainless steel bin last week. Now that did have a moulded plug but the person decided to cut the flex to feed through units (they do) & connect it up bare & hanging on the other side.
Lovely.Not Again0 -
1984ReturnsForReal wrote: »Its not a moot point.
Electric cookers don't come with 13A moulded plugs
However I did see a gas ovens ignition supply joined to a connector block & sparking right next to a stainless steel bin last week. Now that did have a moulded plug but the person decided to cut the flex to feed through units (they do) & connect it up bare & hanging on the other side.
Lovely.
As for the gas ignition connection, it is wrong. The cable should have been cut, fed through and a non moulded plug fitted. The cut off plug should have been destroyed or rendered incapable of putting in a socket.Hi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure - MSE ForumTeam0 -
DVardysShadow wrote: »If the cooker does not come with a 13 A plug, it is because a 13 A plug should not be fitted [thinks dead parrot here]. So the point about the cable size is moot.
As for the gas ignition connection, it is wrong. The cable should have been cut, fed through and a non moulded plug fitted. The cut off plug should have been destroyed or rendered incapable of putting in a socket.
Wrong.
Electric ovens (certainly Zanussi ones, maybe others) that take 13A plugs DO NOT COME WITH ONE. You are expected to hire someone (Or do it yourself if your competent) to fit heat resitant flex and a 13A plug to the connectors in the back of the oven. This can then be plugged into a standard socket (That should be on a switched spur above counter level)0 -
At the risk of geting involved in matter of semantics/definitions, you are arguing aginst each other for no reason. A COOKER is not an OVEN - it is an OVEN and HOB.
NO electric COOKER will come fitted with a 13A plug, such a combined device of hob and oven will exceed 3KW.
No electric HOB will come fitted with a 13A plug, as it will invariably exceed 3KW.
A single electric OVEN may well come fitted with a 13A plug, as many are < 3KW.
A Double electric OVEN rarely comes fitted with a 13A plug as it will usually exceed 3KW (although I did find a 2.7KW Belling double oven that did - mind you it was a load of rubbish...)
Ergo, an electric COOKER, an electric HOB or a electric double OVEN usually require a dedicated supply direct from the CU, using a suitable gauge cable (rated for the installation method and environment) and a suitably rated protection device (MCB/RCBO) for the load they present (after applying diversification, where applicable). Whereas a single OVEN may, if supplied with a 13A plug, be connected by way of a 13A socket, otherwise the above applies.
Thus spake the electrician......0 -
Wrong.
Electric ovens (certainly Zanussi ones, maybe others) that take 13A plugs DO NOT COME WITH ONE. You are expected to hire someone (Or do it yourself if your competent) to fit heat resitant flex and a 13A plug to the connectors in the back of the oven. This can then be plugged into a standard socket (That should be on a switched spur above counter level)
So you cannot judge anything by looking at the size of the cable.Hi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure - MSE ForumTeam0 -
DVardysShadow wrote: »Let me clarify a bit then. I'll wear your 'wrong', but the gist of what I am saying here is still to some extent valid. Zannussi have got around the need to supply a moulded plug by not supplying a cable.
So you cannot judge anything by looking at the size of the cable.
Dont try and get out of it.
An electric oven, grill & hob or nearly every single combination is hard wired & doesnt get plugged in at all.Not Again0 -
1984ReturnsForReal wrote: »Dont try and get out of it.
An electric oven, grill & hob or nearly every single combination is hard wired & doesnt get plugged in at all.
So much for zax, whom you thanked.....
A single electric OVEN may well come fitted with a 13A plug, as many are < 3KW.
A Double electric OVEN rarely comes fitted with a 13A plug as it will usually exceed 3KW (although I did find a 2.7KW Belling double oven that did - mind you it was a load of rubbish...)
Let us just rewind. Possibly what I tried to state here was not clearly enough statedDVardysShadow wrote: »If it was designed to be installed this way, it would come with a moulded plug on the cable, I believe. AIUI, moulded plugs are now a requirement.
So, let me put it this way:
If it is designed to be plugged into a 13A socket and it comes with a fitted cable, that cable should be supplied fitted with a 13A plug.
Now over to you. You can accept that statement, you can clarify it or you can reject it and hopefully improve everyone's understanding
Or if getting to the truth of the matter is not exciting enough for you, you can settle for proving me wrong.Hi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure - MSE ForumTeam0 -
And now, ta da, an actual answer to the poster's question.
No, you can't do it yourself. No disrespect but the clue to this is that you don't actually know what a spur point is and that you weren't aware that an oven might need one in the first place. Most of the answers above assume a level of knowledge of electrics that is clearly absent from your query.
Contact Currys and complain like hell. Get them to exchange the oven for one with a pluggy inny (if one exists) or provide some compensation for the bad advice. Then get yourself an electrician. You are dealing with a situation where you can't bumble through with a bit of DIY - it could kill you or one of your family.0
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