Testing a hot water cylinder thermostat

Martyn_H

1984ReturnsForReal wrote: »

3 or 4 regulars & another 3 or 4 that aren't plumbers but know their stuff.

Some of who have already posted & you have ignored them.

Not deliberately.

Martyn_H

mikey72 wrote: »

You do mean the stat when you're heating the water with gas, not the electric immersion?

Have you got your heating on yet after summer?

If the answers yes to both, my money's on the diverter valve.

Yes, the stat when using gas. No, I'm delaying turning on whilst the weather is fine.

DVardysShadow

Martyn_H wrote: »

Oh spare me the attitude! I have tried to answer as best I can, work commitments permitting, but if that isn't good enough, please don't bother wearing out your keyboard as I don't care for rudeness.

As far as I know it has worked correctly.

Attitude?

I could get really hot under the collar that you ignored my question and then came up with this:

Martyn_H wrote: »

Any plumbers here?

Intentional or not, it comes across as down right insulting. Most people who post here don't have a trade, but there are many who know their domestic systems inside out. Between the posters you have available. - even excluding those who actually are plumbers - there will be enough expertise to solve your problem if you can provide accurate answers.

But if you are going to insist on a plumber, go out and pay one.

Martyn_H

I take your point about my remark 'Any plumbers here?' It looked to me like the thread had run its course after a few replies. Obviously I've no way of telling whether people are skilled tradesmen or householders just trying to be helpful, which is the bracket I fall into. I can assure you that it wasn't intended to offend. Perhaps we could all choose our words more carefully on occasion.

Wilchard

I have the same problem - but for me, no hot water. I have a boiler pump & diverter valve. CH hot water is fine. Towel rails heat up when only the hot water system is switched on, but I guess that is OK as they probably are fed before the diverter. The diverter valve does spin back if I manually spin it away from its position but not far enough to open the path to the HW cylinder. I suspect the tank thermostat. I was hoping someone might suggest how to test the stat. In the absence of such advice, I am going to turn off the mains, remove said stat and see if its contacts are continuous when on and not when off and I am hoping that this is a sufficient test.:(

NEW THREAD NOW STARTED

27col

It seems that any "attitude" here is down to the OP and not to those trying to make sense of the question without being given enough information to be able to help properly. It does not matter a toss whether the reply comes from a "plunber" or a competent DIYer, just as long as it helps provide a solution to the problem.

DVardysShadow

Wilchard wrote: »

I have the same problem - but for me, no hot water. I have a boiler pump & diverter valve. CH hot water is fine. Towel rails heat up when only the hot water system is switched on, but I guess that is OK as they probably are fed before the diverter. The diverter valve does spin back if I manually spin it away from its position but not far enough to open the path to the HW cylinder. I suspect the tank thermostat. I was hoping someone might suggest how to test the stat. In the absence of such advice, I am going to turn off the mains, remove said stat and see if its contacts are continuous when on and not when off and I am hoping that this is a sufficient test.:(

New thread now started at https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/3899685

Start a new thread please. Go to http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/forumdisplay.php?f=39 and use the 'new thread' button. The come back and edit your post here to say that you have started a new thread.

Really no benefit in tacking your problem on the back of a thread which has gone sour. Everyone will be grumpy by the time they reach your question.

southcoastrgi

DVardysShadow wrote: »

Has it ever worked correctly? Sometimes cylinder thermostats are installed which don't really control the temperature in a meaningful way. Typically, the hot water cylinder runs on gravity circulation and the thermostat cuts the boiler off when temperature is reached - but only in the summer months with HW only selected. In the winter, the boiler runs anyway, because CH+HW is selected and the cylinder thermostat does not cut off the boiler.

Well some people on here may be surprised at my answer but firstly DV i think you must be having a bad day with regard to your replies & to say they are over the top is an understatement, & with regard to the quoted post above this is not correct, only a gravity hot water system will work as you describe & normally won't have a cylinder stat & just rely on the boiler stat, thankfully these system are becoming less & less common so def not typical as the majority are now fully pumped.

OP make sure that the stat is fully in contact with the cylinder & if it is then it may be faulty, this is a job you can do yourself just buy another one (they are not expensive try & get the same make if you can) there is only two wires in there & if you get them round the wrong way the stat will work in reverse so just swop them over, hope that helps & best of luck.

DVardysShadow

keithgillyon wrote: »

Well some people on here may be surprised at my answer but firstly DV i think you must be having a bad day with regard to your replies & to say they are over the top is an understatement, & with regard to the quoted post above this is not correct, only a gravity hot water system will work as you describe & normally won't have a cylinder stat & just rely on the boiler stat, thankfully these system are becoming less & less common so def not typical as the majority are now fully pumped.

OP make sure that the stat is fully in contact with the cylinder & if it is then it may be faulty, this is a job you can do yourself just buy another one (they are not expensive try & get the same make if you can) there is only two wires in there & if you get them round the wrong way the stat will work in reverse so just swop them over, hope that helps & best of luck.

Keep you hair on, this thread is over 6 months old and has only been revived by a newbie who could not see how to start a new thread.

And you tell me I am wrong because what I say only applies to gravity systems. Fair point - and as you can see from my reply, I do make it clear that I am writing about gravity systems. As combis have become the norm, of course, cylinders have been overtaken, but for some psychic reason, I have concluded that this thread is about a systems with a cylinder.

Hope you start having a better day. By the way, as you know so much about this, your help is required on https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/3899685

southcoastrgi

DVardysShadow wrote: »

Keep you hair on, this thread is over 6 months old and has only been revived by a newbie who could not see how to start a new thread.

And you tell me I am wrong because what I say only applies to gravity systems. Fair point - and as you can see from my reply, I do make it clear that I am writing about gravity systems. As combis have become the norm, of course, cylinders have been overtaken, but for some psychic reason, I have concluded that this thread is about a systems with a cylinder.

Hope you start having a better day. By the way, as you know so much about this, your help is required on https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/3899685

yes you are right i have just looked at the date & prob a bit late to give advice to the op, but with regard to what i said i wasn't talking about combi's i was talking as were you about a conventional cylinder & roof tanks, a gravity system doesn't pump the hot water from the boiler around the cylinder this is done by gravity the clue is in the name, it is only the heating side that is pumped & for that reason you don't have a cylinder stat & the hot water is always on when the heating is, yes i'll check out the other thread & see if i can help.