Do you understand 10w40 oil?

mikey72

GTX is a decent oil, Edge is the expensive synthetic oil, which usually gets the top spot on Castrols list, but is over the top for what you need. Magnatec is also a decent semi synthetic.
All are good though.

bigjl

Decent is one thing mikey , but good enough for a complicated common rail diesel of engine?

6 litres of fully synthetic oil versus premature wear on a very expensive engine that also has a camchain so rubbish oil will lead to camchain wear aswell.

Sorry but for me it is ruining the roof for half a bucket of tar.

The OP needs to go to the nearest GSF or EuroCarParts and buy the oil, i rarely trust buying things online though the prices are very useful as a guide.

I got front discs and pads for my Mondeo yesterday at EuroCarParts, Pagid so a decent make £78 all in and the pads came with new caliper bolts aswell. To hot to fit them myself so got a friendly indy mechanic to chuck them on the morning for £30 cash.

I may be tight but my cars always get OE spec filters, the best oil available but very little else.

But as eveybody says Mondeos are unreliable mineseems to be very robust, still doesn't need topped up between oil changes which i do myself every 6/7k.

Usually with the proper Ford oil but the last time with the Mobil equivalent.

The wifes Clio got Elf the first and second oil changes, Comma the third and now I use Mobil 1 as it is available for a good price at Costco.

I don't mind buying different makes of oil if they have a decent spec, but i wouldn't put the oil for the Mondeo in the Clio. And i would definately out GTX in any common rail turbo diesel especially if it had a camchain.

gilbert_and_sullivan

Hmm, doesn't the Rover 75 Diesel use the BMW 320 Diesel engine, if so then 5w30 would be the recommended grade, but 5w40 perfectly fine, certainly preferable to using a 10w40 as that will be slightly thicker when cold.

mikey72

I wouldn't not use it, but I suppose my first choice would be Magnatec semi synthetic, I don't think I'd ever run to Edge.
All ours that can run on 10w40 semi synthetic, petrol or diesel or turbo, mainly as I get Vauxhall trade. I've a couple that only run on mineral 20w50 as well though. (Halfords Classic there)

jase1

Nooo noo no no, CR diesel engines are bombproof -- everyone here keeps saying so -- if cheap 10/40 semi-synth oil is good enough for my old Mitsu petrol engine it's good enough for these "solid, run forever, never go wrong" CR lumps.

epninety

For the Freelander with the Td4, the Land Rover WSM recommends 10W/40 or 15W/40, to API SH quality.

It also offers a range of oils for different service temperatures, which boils down to using a 0W/? or 5W/? for operation below -20C, and ?W/40 or higher for operation above +35C.

burtons

Doooford wrote: »

What the ruddy hell is oil about?
I went to Eurocarparts (Wouldn't recommend - terrible customer service and never received order) and entered my registration number. It recommended 10W40 so I ordered 6 litres which didn't arrive.
To cut a long story short I've given up on ever seeing the order so I saw some half price Castrol GTX in Tesco so purchased 6 litres.
I've just been to the castrol site and put my Reg No. in and it recommends Edge Turbo Diesel 5W-40.
Does the type change between manufacturers? Do I need to get a refund and get another oil?
Very confused by it all... :eek:

Car is a Diesel Rover 75.

W stands for winter so if you went for 5w it's better for colder mornings.

bigjl

I doubt if GTX matches those specs, looked at it in Tesco last year when servicing the wifes car, just on the off chance.

The oil would be fine in most petrol cars, but i wouldn't put it anywhere near a common rail engine.

Can't remember the terms off hand but just because it says 10w40 or whatever doesn't mean it is the correct 10w40 for that engine, there are many different specs.

For example my tdci Mondeo takes a 5w30 oil, but Mobil does two 5w30 oils when i checked, however one wasn't up to spec and one was, so i chose the one that was.

Castrol make GTX and they don't recommend it they say Castrol Edge.

There is moneysaving and being too tight to buy the correct oil.

I wouldn't put normal GTX in an old XUD engine let alone a BMW common rail. Remember that back when GTX was formulated it was very common for all oils to be either petrol or diesel due to different additives.

bigjl

Just went and checked, the specs i was referring to but couldn't remember are the ACEA specs, which are an A for peteol and a B for diesel.

For example my Mondeo uses an A1B1 oil.

From the quick check i have done on Shell's webpage the BMW lump.needs an A3/B3-B4 oil. But can take a 5w40 or a 10w60 oil depending on the temp range the vehicle is being used in.

As far as i have read the ACEA specs have superseeded the API specs especially when manufacturers are co.cerned when they come to recommend an oil.

I think A5/B5 is the best spec, A1/B1 is the fuel economy oil whatever that means, i did read about it once, might have been on Opieoils site but i can't remember.

I am a bit anal about oil and always try to get the best possible at the best price.

After all what is the point in saving £5 on what may not be the best product when it lasts for nigh on 10k.

Though the oil on the wifes Clio was mega pricey till i found the Mobil 1 oil at Costco for a good price, from memory £28and a lot cheaper than local factors or Halfords.

mikey72

API is an international spec, ACEA is European.

A3/B3 is the standard oil now, and has replaced A2/B2, and is backward compatible.
A3/B4 is slightly better for direct injected diesels.

A1/B1 and A5/B5 are low shear oils, and not suitable for a lot of cars. Don't use it unless your car specifically needs it, as it breaks down under pressure in bearings etc.

Most C oils are specific as well, and have low SAPS

Quote from the ACEA Oil Sequences 2008 (my bold)

"A5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate (HTHS) viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s.

These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.

C4 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and gasoline engines requiring low SAPS oil with a minimum HTHS viscosity of
3.5mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life.

Warning: these oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt."

A1/B1 is even lower shear.


But



GTX is ACEA A3/B4
API SL/CF
Edge 5w40 is ACEA A3/B4/C3
API SM/CF

The C3 means it has lower SAPS, and is marginally better for DPF's but as it has lower SAPs (sulphate ash, phosphorous and sulphur content) the engine should have been designed not to have these in the oil, but will still be ok to use it, as it lists A3, B4.


I've looked at all these as two of our older cars use 20w50, and if you use modern blend oils, the phosporous content is too low, and the cam followers wear.
So API SE (goes up to SM for modern oils), still made for classics.

As a rule stick to the oil the engine was designed for, more modern blends may not have what is needed in them.