Installing spot lighting

Talon_Karrde

i am reading with some concern here. I have installed downlighters (low voltage, and therefore not dimmable) to both my kitchen and hallway. in both cases i used all the wires that came with the kits (the kitchen are 20v bulbs and the hallway 35w) and indeed removed floorboards and drilled small holes through joists etc to complete the fitting.
Now then, are people saying that i need someone official (ie from the council / building regs) to come and inspect it? Or, is it sufficient that my brother, who is an electrician (although not sure of his quals, but i could check) has checked eveything?
Am now worried, as i have already been stupid enough not to have life insurance before getting diagnosed with a rare cancer, the LAST thing i need is a non payment of an isurance claim due to something like this!

and IF i need someone else to check the work, surely it would be advisable to make this VERY clear all relavent products packaging? I mean, how many people buy these kits and do what the original poster LionKing wants to do?

i am worried, i know what electricity can do.....

YorkshireBoy

Talon_Karrde wrote:

Now then, are people saying that i need someone official (ie from the council / building regs) to come and inspect it? Or, is it sufficient that my brother, who is an electrician (although not sure of his quals, but i could check) has checked eveything?

From what you describe, this type of work does not fall under the Part P process.

In its simplest terms, you have not ADDED another circuit. You have replaced the old ceiling rose/striplight for example with a transformer for the new low voltage fittings, and the only wiring installed (providing you've only used what came with the kit) is your additional wiring for linking the 12V dichroics.

Its just the same as replacing a light fitting or a socket front.

You can be assured you have not contravened Part P.

YB

YorkshireBoy

To try and eliminate any confusion/ambiguity regarding what constitutes Part P work, I was going to give a few examples on the DIY forum. However, I could not hope to do this properly due to space/time available.

If anyone is interested in finding out more there are some free downloads at:

https://www.partp.co.uk
https://www.odpm.gov.uk
https://www.eca.co.uk

My particular favourite is http://www.eca.co.uk/partp/files/public/000_Part%20P%20of%20the%20Building%20Regulations%20-%20Explained%20Nov04.pdf (right-click and "save as") which I downloaded from the ECA website.

If anyone has specific queries I'll try and elaborate further.

HTH
YB

Talon_Karrde

thanks for that YorkieBoy!
I do have another question, although not related to Downlighters.....
When i moved into my current house there was no power to the garage. There was a spare fuse space on the main board.
I have run T&E cable from the main box round the outside of the house (all conduited of course) into a further garage fuse box (the correct name for these escape me, but it's a box with 2 trip switches at different ampage for lighting and power) and then taken lighting and 2 3 gang sockets from this. I did all this under the careful guidance from my qualified brother.
just, your phrase "added a circuit" got me thinking see.....or is it different for garages?

like i say, a bit off subject, but i would be very grateful?

ta muchly

YorkshireBoy

Talon_Karrde wrote:

thanks for that YorkieBoy!
I do have another question, although not related to Downlighters.....
When i moved into my current house there was no power to the garage. There was a spare fuse space on the main board.
I have run T&E cable from the main box round the outside of the house (all conduited of course) into a further garage fuse box (the correct name for these escape me, but it's a box with 2 trip switches at different ampage for lighting and power) and then taken lighting and 2 3 gang sockets from this. I did all this under the careful guidance from my qualified brother.
just, your phrase "added a circuit" got me thinking see.....or is it different for garages?

like i say, a bit off subject, but i would be very grateful?

ta muchly

Firstly, you MUST HAVE RCD PROTECTION ON THE SUPPLY TO THE GARAGE. If you have, and although you don't give any fuse ratings or cable sizes, then it all sounds OK and exactly how I would do it .

There is more need to "get it right" when wiring garages and other outbuildings. This is because you are supplying equipment that will be used outside the "equipotential zone" of your house. All this means is that every piece of exposed metalwork in your house is bonded to earth, ie water, gas, fridge, washer etc. The metalwork outside your house (garage door/fence etc might not be).

If your garage was wired prior to 1/1/05, and your brother complied with BS7671 as regards test/inspection, it all sounds OK. However if you were doing it now it would DEFINITELY be a Part P installation for the following reasons:

1/ You are clearly adding another circuit
2/ You are selecting a cable & fuse, for a certain "design" current.
3/ You are installing a cable (ie deciding the route/thermal insulation etc).

To comply with building regs, this work would have to be either notified to local council building control who would advise and test/issue certification (they could sub this work out), or you could employ your own "Part P Certified" electrical contractor to test/issue certification. Either way, you'd now be paying at least £100 for this service.

HTH
YB

Talon_Karrde

OK, here it is....
I installed a Garage Consumer Unit with 2 way RCD protection, with a 6A and 16A MCB's and 63A and 30mA RCD in metal enclosure. and the MCB on the house main box that the 2.5mm T&E is connected to from this is 30A.
This was all done in Feb of 2003

thanks for you very valuable advice and info! :--)

YorkshireBoy

Talon_Karrde wrote:

OK, here it is....
I installed a Garage Consumer Unit with 2 way RCD protection, with a 6A and 16A MCB's and 63A and 30mA RCD in metal enclosure. and the MCB on the house main box that the 2.5mm T&E is connected to from this is 30A.
This was all done in Feb of 2003

thanks for you very valuable advice and info! :--)

2.5mm T & E is TOO SMALL for the 30A MCB, and as such your installation does not comply with the 16th Edition Wiring Regs.

You need to swap the MCB for a 20A unit.