Low hot water pressure on new tap

plumb1_2

What i would do

Turn off isolating valves next to the tap( should be fiited)
Disconect the hot flex, then draw off some of the hot water into a bucket to eliminate any air trapped in the pipework, reconect the hot flex and test the flow.
If still the same, turn off supplies again, and swop the hot and cold flexs over hot to cold, cold to hot, then test the flow again, this will prove that you have not blockage in the hot intake,
If there is no problem with the flow when the cold is conected to the hot, then change tap or fit pump.

Before doing the above remove any airiator or spray from the spout.

The_Governor

Thanks again to you both for the continued posts.

BobP - If I unscrew the head of the tap (i.e. the spray head in the extension flex) but leave the extension flex on the flow is better, but not as strong as I at first thought.

I'm not sure if I can remove the nozzle insert, I assume by this you mean the spray bit in the head of the tap?

plumb1 - I like the idea of swapping the flex's over, I'll try that, could I just ask what the airiator is? Is it those thing that fit in the spout to separate the water into streams? If so, is that something that needs doing to save damage or just to remove any further obstacles?

I'm expecting to have to fit a pump (the wife likes that tap!) I'm actually wondering about fitting a pump for the whole house as a pump just for one tap seems extravagant. Any ideas on how much I should be looking at in terms of price for the pump and fitting?

plumb1_2

The_Governor wrote:

Thanks again to you both for the continued posts.

BobP - If I unscrew the head of the tap (i.e. the spray head in the extension flex) but leave the extension flex on the flow is better, but not as strong as I at first thought.

I'm not sure if I can remove the nozzle insert, I assume by this you mean the spray bit in the head of the tap?

plumb1 - I like the idea of swapping the flex's over, I'll try that, could I just ask what the airiator is? Is it those thing that fit in the spout to separate the water into streams? If so, is that something that needs doing to save damage or just to remove any further obstacles?

I'm expecting to have to fit a pump (the wife likes that tap!) I'm actually wondering about fitting a pump for the whole house as a pump just for one tap seems extravagant. Any ideas on how much I should be looking at in terms of price for the pump and fitting?

Airiator-(if fitted) this will be at the spout, so in your case will be on the end of the flexible outlet that you can pull out.
Some of them are a fine stainless steal gaurse(spelling:o ) and it could have debris on it stoppping the flow,and it will catch any loose debris( copper burs, jointing paste etc) when you have been working on the pipework.

The_Governor

plumb1 wrote:

Airiator-(if fitted) this will be at the spout, so in your case will be on the end of the flexible outlet that you can pull out.
Some of them are a fine stainless steal gaurse(spelling:o ) and it could have debris on it stoppping the flow,and it will catch any loose debris( copper burs, jointing paste etc) when you have been working on the pipework.

Got, you, that's what i thought. There's nothing in the end. I just repeated my "head on, head off" test.

Without the head the water pressure is probably two to three times faster, with the head on it slows right down.

So, if there's a problem it's mostly to do with the head. Cold mains water is fine, but I guess that has the extra oomph to overcome the resistance of the head.

If I look into the head, I see a green disc (non-return valve?) but it doesn't look like that is removable unless I totally dismantle the head, which looks pretty much like sealed unit, so I think I'll damage it if I have a go.

Could I be lucky enough that a replacement head will sort it, or do you think it's more to with the design of the head rather than a restriction?

plumb1_2

The_Governor wrote:

If I look into the head, I see a green disc (non-return valve?) but it doesn't look like that is removable unless I totally dismantle the head, which looks pretty much like sealed unit,

It could be a Flow Limiter. Not likely to be NRV as these should be fitted on the pipework after the isolation valves.

The_Governor

plumb1 wrote:

It could be a Flow Limiter. Not likely to be NRV as these should be fitted on the pipework after the isolation valves.

Hmmm flow limiter - I wonder could it be causing some of my problem? Is it needed?

ozskin

If youwant to fit a whole house pump this may solve all your probs as the tap would then be working on a high pressure system. My recommend would be a salamander pump. we have used them for years now and recon they are ahead of stuart turner pumps. they are quieter and give better performance accross the range. They do a useful pumpwise questionaire fill it in and get an extra 2 yrs (3 in total) free warranty. availiable at all good retailers like us

The_Governor

Thanks for the tip ozskin, how much would I be looking at for a pump + fitting?

plumb1_2

The_Governor wrote:

Thanks for the tip ozskin, how much would I be looking at for a pump + fitting?

ozskin, Seems to be promoting his shop in several post, or am i just

Personaly i wouldn,t go for a pump for your whole house,are your tanks large enough? Are you tapping off the cylinder with a essex boss, surry flange? otherwise you will have to be careful not to draw air from the vent, as this will soon !!!!!! your pump.

ozskin

It depeends onhow big a pump you want of course but a powerfull whole house pump should cost in the region of 300 and fitting should take in the region of 1/2 day, so it depends on your plumber. You of course must make sure you have the tank capacities to cope with it, but as mentioned earlier salamander offer a free pumpwise service that should guide you well.
The other alternative if you are looking for the best performance is to consider a mains unvented tank. If your system is relatively old, say 10-15yrs and replacment tanks may be round the corner it is often a good idea to consider this as. Assuming your incomming mains pressure is good, this will give you great pressure and flow to the whole house, for not much difference between a pump and a new hot water tank, assuming it would need replacing. It is at least worth considering this option as it may be more cost effective in the long run. If you do go down this route, don't use a tank with an integral pressure vessel as recommended by many plumbers we see, less work for them and easier to fit (though it should only save about 1 hrs work) but more difficult for you as the end user.

note for plumb 1, which shop am i promoting then?