URGENT HELP PLS - Trying to wire 2-port Honeywell Actuator to CENTRAL HEATING

Canucklehead

Hi,

I can't see how you are going to connect 5 wires on a new 4043 valve to the jb when you only had 3 on the old valve that were actually connected to anything.

I will watch and see how this unfolds :cool:

If you must bash on then make sure you have a THREE AMP fuse in the supply (red one).

GSR.

ormus

brown & blue power the motor.
green/yellow is earth.


orange = switched live out to boiler and pump.
grey = live power into the unit/microswitch.

gas4you

ormus wrote: »

brown & blue power the motor.
green/yellow is earth.


orange = switched live out to boiler and pump.
grey = live power into the unit/microswitch.

A bit pedantic I know, but just so the OP is clear, the grey is a permanent live.

1984ReturnsForReal_2

Lesson number 1 (for the general public reading this in years to come for advise on how to do it)

ALWAYS TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRES GOING INTO THE TERMINAL BLOCK BEFORE DISMANTLING THE EXISTING ACTUATOR.

ALWAYS REMOVE ONE WIRE AT A TIME & REPLACE IT WITH THE NEW WIRE BEFORE MOVING ON TO THE NEXT WIRE TO REMOVE & REPLACE

Mics_chick

1984ReturnsForReal wrote: »

Lesson number 1 (for the general public reading this in years to come for advise on how to do it)

ALWAYS TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRES GOING INTO THE TERMINAL BLOCK BEFORE DISMANTLING THE EXISTING ACTUATOR. <---- a very good tip imho

ALWAYS REMOVE ONE WIRE AT A TIME & REPLACE IT WITH THE NEW WIRE BEFORE MOVING ON TO THE NEXT WIRE TO REMOVE & REPLACE <---- this one not so useful

The second tip was impossible to do in my case (and I can't see how it would be different in any other case) coz you have to disconnect the old and reconnect the new actuator to the pipework before you can even think about connecting to the electrics so doing this would mean the old one was in the way and make it far more complicated imo.

gas4you

Another way, and to me an easier way, is once you have confirmed all power is off to heating system, open wiring center and cut the old actuator wire off inside it.

You can then fit the actuator and feed the new wire into the wiring center and remove each old wire in turn and fit the new wire at the same time.

plumb1_2

gas4you wrote: »

You can then fit the actuator and feed the new wire into the wiring center and remove each old wire in turn and fit the new wire at the same time.

Works for me 100% of the time. Simpelssssssss.

1984ReturnsForReal_2

Mics_chick wrote: »

The second tip was impossible to do in my case (and I can't see how it would be different in any other case) coz you have to disconnect the old and reconnect the new actuator to the pipework before you can even think about connecting to the electrics so doing this would mean the old one was in the way and make it far more complicated imo.

See the 2 posts above......

diable

1984ReturnsForReal wrote: »

Lesson number 1 (for the general public reading this in years to come for advise on how to do it)

ALWAYS TAKE A PICTURE OF THE WIRES GOING INTO THE TERMINAL BLOCK BEFORE DISMANTLING THE EXISTING ACTUATOR.

ALWAYS REMOVE ONE WIRE AT A TIME & REPLACE IT WITH THE NEW WIRE BEFORE MOVING ON TO THE NEXT WIRE TO REMOVE & REPLACE

lol like anyone will listen to your advice even though it's spot on

1984ReturnsForReal_2

diable wrote: »

lol like anyone will listen to your advice even though it's spot on

I am always spot on (apart from one post on earthing once I was wrong on that).

Controversial, annoying, argumentative but always spot on.

I draw you attention to the soon to be acquitted Notts Protesters that were illegally arrested & prosecuted...

Unfortunately, there is a price to pay for being me on MSE & its a price I am willing to pay :rotfl:

:eek: