How to stop my condensate pipe from freezing

jammiev

thanks, how easy is it to refit a new 40mm pipe?

Mojisola

sharkie wrote: »

on a very wide pipe, could you not just insulate the outer pipe and stick a fishtank heater up the spout and let the warmth go up the pipe?

£10 for a 100w heater.

I understood the condensate was corrosive so a fishtank heater may be damaged by it.

Steve_xx

sharkie wrote: »

on a very wide pipe, could you not just insulate the outer pipe and stick a fishtank heater up the spout and let the warmth go up the pipe?

£10 for a 100w heater.

You could not do as you suggest.

Fish tank water heaters contain a thermostat that switches the heater off when the surrounding water reaches a given temperature. In your suggestion, how would it ever switch off?

sharkie

trace heating is much better system, than my fishtank idea.

However both heaters do still need an external ice sensor, and I would not think that the heater would be effected as its contained in a plastic tube, or similar otherwise water would short it out.

On top of that, if you were to stick it in a pipe bottom, you would most likely turn it upside down so that the bottom of the heater point upward.

Steve_xx

sharkie wrote: »

trace heating is much better system, than my fishtank idea.

However both heaters do still need an external ice sensor, and I would not think that the heater would be effected as its contained in a plastic tube, or similar otherwise water would short it out.

On top of that, if you were to stick it in a pipe bottom, you would most likely turn it upside down so that the bottom of the heater point upward.

Apart from your comment "trace heating is much better system", I cannot understand the rest of your post.

You mention that both heaters "still need an external ice sensor". What is "an external ice sensor"? And more importantly, how would this be attached to a fish tank heater?

Your final paragraph simply tells us that whichever device you are referring to is inserted into the pipe, then it would be upside down, but you don't say why that matters?

roddydogs

Surely the answer is all piping must be internal, why should you have to muck about like this if youve just paid £3,000 for a new boiler? Luckily I had one of the last non-condensing boilers fitted.. If I hadnt, and had the problems outlined, Id expect the installer to correct the fault, and make sure it didnt happen in the future.!!

Steve_xx

roddydogs wrote: »

Surely the answer is all piping must be internal, why should you have to muck about like this if youve just paid £3,000 for a new boiler? Luckily I had one of the last non-condensing boilers fitted.. If I hadnt, and had the problems outlined, Id expect the installer to correct the fault, and make sure it didnt happen in the future.!!

I think it's more 'an act of God', than fault as such.

bob_a_builder

You mention that both heaters "still need an external ice sensor". What is "an external ice sensor"? And more importantly, how would this be attached to a fish tank heater?

= thermostat (frost stat, same as used to keep a boiler running when installed in a garage etc)

connected same as any other thermostat , in line with the heater

some fishtank heaters have internal thermostats (they would be set to switch off at around 65),, some don't

But don't think fishtank heater would be a good idea generally since it is intended to sit in a body of water rather than a trickle, good chance the glass tube would crack with the temperature differential across the glass body

Your final paragraph simply tells us that whichever device you are referring to is inserted into the pipe, then it would be upside down, but you don't say why that matters?

old fashioned fish tank heater was just a heater in a test tube with a rubber bung thru which the cable passed, if the rounded end of the test tube is pushes up the tube, then a bit less chance of corrosive damage ?

sharkie

Steve_xx wrote: »

Apart from your comment "trace heating is much better system", I cannot understand the rest of your post.

Well if your trace heating element is stuck in the xmas post, shop has run out, ebay china not delivering, think an aquarium heater just may be a viable option to freeing ones festive nuts off. It is just an idea that would make a convection heater for the inside of the pipe and the warn air would travel up keeping the water from freezing. Obviously the pipe has to be insulated on the outside. I know for me it would it would be far easier to get an aquarium heater, but definitely not the best solution.

Steve_xx wrote: »

You mention that both heaters "still need an external ice sensor". What is "an external ice sensor"? And more importantly, how would this be attached to a fish tank heater?

Personally, unless you want it running 24-7-365, you would either have to plug the trace element etc in manually and risk getting caught out, plus would be a pain to do. I would place money on there being ice, or 0 degree temp sensor or thermostat out there to turn your device on for you.

Steve_xx wrote: »

Your final paragraph simply tells us that whichever device you are referring to is inserted into the pipe, then it would be upside down, but you don't say why that matters?

I was thinking about the test tube shaped devices, and if the round bottom of the test tube was turned pushed up the spout(so that the condensate falls on the class (probably now plastic) dome, then if there were a problem with the top cap seal, it would not have no effect on the workings.

Bob-a-builder, thought about cracking class, but also thought that the temp within the small space of the tube would turn off the thermostat before it got too hot, but also it could be as you suggest there may also be localized heat buildup. To be honest, it is something I have never played with. They are about £10 and if that gave me festive heat

aboard_epsilon

Wonder if you could do this ..or it would work

Buy a 6 foot length of earth cable.

Remove insulation ..rap the copper conductors several times around the hot boiler outlet pipe ......direct the rest of the copper through a hole in the condensate pipe and let it dangle inside...seal the hole.

Leave insulation on the part from the hot pipe to the condensate pipe.

Theory ..copper conducts heat very efficiently right to the end of the copper wires...so puts some warmth inside the condensate pipe.

all the best.markj