How to stop my condensate pipe from freezing

Hi, for the second time in two years my condensate pipe has frozen solid.

I am planning on fixing it in the spring, hopefully when all the lagging etc is back in stock!

What i am planning on doing is lagging the 20mm pipe with foam tubing pipe lagging and then re-routing it so it is more vetical without a 90 degree bend in it and also have it suspended slightly above the drain so there is a large gap so it is not touching the ground.

Anyone recommend anything else to do or offer any tips?

It can't be routed internally in the wall.

Can you buy a 135 degree bend?

It has to run down the wall approx 3m then along horizontally by approx 2m to the drain. The boiler is in a cupboard upstairs.

Thanks
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Comments

  • wallbash
    wallbash Posts: 17,775 Forumite
    Anyone recommend anything else to do or offer any tips?

    On Boxing day , I suggested to a friend to cut the thing off. better a frozen patch outside in garden than a boiler than wont work. Not a very professional act , but one that works.
  • lilac_lady
    lilac_lady Posts: 4,469 Forumite
    Mine has a crack in it and the B/Gas engineer advised leaving repairs till Spring as it could happen again if the weather gets cold enough. He suggested lagging it but said that the only answer is a heated coil inside the pipe that would cost £200 to install. As my boiler is working I've decided to ignore it and keep my fingers crossed till Spring.
    " The greatest wealth is to live content with little."

    Plato


  • plumb1_2
    plumb1_2 Posts: 4,395 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    jammiev wrote: »
    Hi, for the second time in two years my condensate pipe has frozen solid.

    I am planning on fixing it in the spring, hopefully when all the lagging etc is back in stock!

    What i am planning on doing is lagging the 20mm pipe with foam tubing pipe lagging and then re-routing it so it is more vetical without a 90 degree bend in it and also have it suspended slightly above the drain so there is a large gap so it is not touching the ground.

    Anyone recommend anything else to do or offer any tips?

    It can't be routed internally in the wall.

    Can you buy a 135 degree bend?

    It has to run down the wall approx 3m then along horizontally by approx 2m to the drain. The boiler is in a cupboard upstairs.

    Thanks

    You shouldn't have 20mm pipe outside, it needs swopping for 42mm, regs state 35mm but better to use 42mm if poss. If you use cheap lagging,better to pi** in the wind, you need to use Armaflex lagging
  • jammiev
    jammiev Posts: 1,039 Forumite
    Hi, thanks, i have already ripped off the end of the pipe and it works fine, but with a large patch of ice on the floor!

    Has anyone heard of frost protection heating tapes?

    Would these work and how much would it be to fit?

    Thanks
  • jammiev
    jammiev Posts: 1,039 Forumite
    plumb1 wrote: »
    You shouldn't have 20mm pipe outside, it needs swopping for 42mm, regs state 35mm but better to use 42mm if poss. If you use cheap lagging,better to pi** in the wind, you need to use Armaflex lagging

    hi, is it easy to swop the pipe?

    thanks
  • andyhop
    andyhop Posts: 1,996 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    jammiev wrote: »
    Hi, thanks, i have already ripped off the end of the pipe and it works fine, but with a large patch of ice on the floor!

    Has anyone heard of frost protection heating tapes?

    Would these work and how much would it be to fit?

    Thanks

    Trace heating is not viable in domestic properties. Is designed for commercial and large installations

    20mm overflow pipe is too small for the length of run

    40mm waste pipe and 20mm wall armaflex or Kooltherm insulation would stop most from freezing
    Hi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure
  • mikey72
    mikey72 Posts: 14,680 Forumite
    Trace heating is now available for condensate pipes. I'm thinking of fitting a system for a customer in Jan, on a pipe that's frozen twice now, inside all the lagging, even after I moved and repiped it over summer. Only freezes below -15 though, but once is too often. I've been quoted around £40 for the first metre, then about £15 a metre after that to me at trade, then fitting on top.
  • sharkie
    sharkie Posts: 624 Forumite
    on a very wide pipe, could you not just insulate the outer pipe and stick a fishtank heater up the spout and let the warmth go up the pipe?

    £10 for a 100w heater.
  • alanobrien
    alanobrien Posts: 3,308 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker Mortgage-free Glee!
    edited 31 December 2010 at 9:21AM
    jammiev wrote: »
    Hi, thanks, i have already ripped off the end of the pipe and it works fine, but with a large patch of ice on the floor!

    Has anyone heard of frost protection heating tapes?

    Would these work and how much would it be to fit?

    Thanks

    I use trace heating on an outside water pipe under the insulation. Power consumption is very low usually around 10w per metre at most and nearly all trace heat tapes these days are self regulating.

    for info I got mine here;

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290490923824&var=590007214469&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

    However before you go that route, i would suggest you try the larger diameter / insulated pipe option plumb1 recommends. It has to be the best way to go if its achievable with your installation.
  • my mother had the same prob last year.
    so hubby unclipped the pipe leading from the boiler indoors and put the end into a bowl underneath that will catch the escaping water..

    this was seen by the gas engineers on the annual service and said this is the best way to combat the freezing probs.
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