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How to stop rawl plugs falling out of wall?
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KaratePigeon wrote: »
btw, I am a girl (and 9 months pregnant too) so my DIY knowledge is pretty poor!
Since when was that an excuse?! :mad:I was born too late, into a world that doesn't care
Oh I wish I was a punk rocker with flowers in my hair0 -
iamana1ias wrote: »Since when was that an excuse?! :mad:
Not an excuse really, just someone referred to me as a 'him' earlier so thought I'd mention it!0 -
KaratePigeon wrote: »Not an excuse really, just someone referred to me as a 'him' earlier so thought I'd mention it!
It was your assertion that being female equalled not knowing much about DIY I was objecting toI was born too late, into a world that doesn't care
Oh I wish I was a punk rocker with flowers in my hair0 -
stephen25uk wrote: »mate your digging a bigger hole everytime you post.....use your callipers to measure it
i am a joiner to trade and must have drilled thousands of holes for frame fixings,windows..etc in my time ,a properly sized hole,rawl plug and screw combinition wont spin,when its tight its tight,your more likley to ruin the head of the screw or your screw bit by trying to overtighten.
some of the things you are taking about in this thread and others in the diy thread are just poor advice.....whats your back ground..do you have a trade...not that that is important to give advice....just post about things you know about...for example i have no expirence of tiling so i dont offer any advice on it.
So then ..if you are so knowledgeable why don't you give proper answers ..
instead of coming back with one liners and drawing it out for people
EG. being that you are intent on rubbishing me ..but not answering the original question posed by the KaratePigeon.
pulling my answers apart ..but not suppling any yourself
There are joiners and there are joiners ..some good, some bad ..some are armchair joiners ..the real good ones probably wouldn't have time to post on forums .
some are in trouble with trading standards on a daily basis.
seen this phenomenon many times on the net ..
where a guy posted thousands of posts ...answering thousands of questions in your manor ..only to be exposed by a !!!!ed of customer on the net for what he really was ..
how do people here know, which one of the above you really are ..
markj0 -
KaratePigeon wrote: »Thanks for the replies, didn't expect so many, lol.
btw, I am a girl (and 9 months pregnant too) so my DIY knowledge is pretty poor!
I don't think it's plasterboard, just looks like plaster all the way through the hole?
umm, they are grey plugs now, a bigger size than the first ones we triedThough looking at what has fallen out, the ends of the screws only reach about half way down the rawl plug, they were almost as long but the plastic mount (which the stairgate hooks onto) is a few mm thick. Do I need longer screws?
Can't drill a new hole as the stairgate needs to fit in the gap between the skirting board and the handrail so it has to go right where it is or the whole thing won't fit. I'm thinking some kind of filler sounds like the easiest option so will go to Wickes later and get some of that wet-and-fix, or Tetrion. Maybe some longer screws too?
how deep is the hole? (stick a pen or summat in it to measure it)
You mention 'grey' plugs, but that is not an indication of size.
Were these screws and plugs supplied with the gate?˙ʇuıɹdllɐɯs ǝɥʇ pɐǝɹ sʎɐʍlɐ
ʇsǝnbǝɹ uodn ǝlqɐlıɐʌɐ ƃuıʞlɐʇs
sǝɯıʇǝɯos pǝɹoq ʎllɐǝɹ ʇǝƃ uɐɔ ı0 -
Fischer are grey.
By now though, I would have given up on plugs and used 80 or 100mm frame fixers in the brick behind.
I've fitted thousands of rawlplugs, in all sorts of surfaces, and I wish I had a tenner for every one that span.0 -
but not all grey plugs are Fischer ..........
Must admit to liking the frame fixer idea .....˙ʇuıɹdllɐɯs ǝɥʇ pɐǝɹ sʎɐʍlɐ
ʇsǝnbǝɹ uodn ǝlqɐlıɐʌɐ ƃuıʞlɐʇs
sǝɯıʇǝɯos pǝɹoq ʎllɐǝɹ ʇǝƃ uɐɔ ı0 -
I got some of that wet-and-fix from Wickes - it looks quite good and the stairgate is now up
Not sure if it'll last though, if not I'll try some of the other suggestions.0 -
I find for these jobs, where several fixings have to be placed for something like hinges or curtain rail brackets, where the items are not rigidly joined together, it is best to put up a single piece of wood which spans all of the required fixing positions and then fix to that.
You now have a problem of 'hole fatigue' - your chances of ever successfully fixing in these positions are becoming vanishingly small. The piece of wood can be fixed to new positions and will be much more strongly fixed because it is one piece which will limit the kinds of forces which can be applied.Hi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure - MSE ForumTeam0 -
aboard_epsilon wrote: »So then ..if you are so knowledgeable why don't you give proper answers ..
instead of coming back with one liners and drawing it out for people
EG. being that you are intent on rubbishing me ..but not answering the original question posed by the KaratePigeon.
pulling my answers apart ..but not suppling any yourself
There are joiners and there are joiners ..some good, some bad ..some are armchair joiners ..the real good ones probably wouldn't have time to post on forums .
some are in trouble with trading standards on a daily basis.
seen this phenomenon many times on the net ..
where a guy posted thousands of posts ...answering thousands of questions in your manor ..only to be exposed by a !!!!ed of customer on the net for what he really was ..
how do people here know, which one of the above you really are ..
markj
so your are saying that really good joiners dont have a life...no time to post on forums no time to relax....lmao
Are you saying i am a con man.....wanna back that up with some kinda proof?
as to not offering a solution i think you will find i asked for some for info from the op before offering a solution....which the op replied to but as i was busy working until this afternoon didnt have time to reply.
to the op
i see you have no solved the problem..congratulations and well done on a good solution.
if the gate ever comes away again i would attach a nice piece of 3 X1 pine to the wall,sand and varnish it,the attch the stairgate to that,the pine will cove the original holes you made,fix to the wall with 3 fixings the length of the wood evenly spaced,use a 7mm masonary drill(calippers not needed just read the size on the packet or drill bit) and 3 brown rawl plugs and som 50mm number 10 screws
any more help needed please ask0
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