2004 Ford Mondeo - EGR Valve - How Much?

shanks84

Hi. Engine light came on the other day, and diagnostic says I need a new EGR valve. Been quoted £215 + VAT. Is this about right? Someone I've spoken to thinks it's pretty steep

Thanks

Strider590

Engine size?/type?

If you've been to a dealership, then that price will be approx double the real value.

Plus.... If it's the first time it's played up, then you could probably simply clean it with a shot of WD40 and a bit of scrubbing = £0

WD40 despite popular opinion (and the way it gets advertised) is not a lubricant, it's in fact a solvent and is excellent for cleaning engine parts!

LandyAndy

Strider590 wrote: »

Engine size?/type?

If you've been to a dealership, then that price will be approx double the real value.

Plus.... If it's the first time it's played up, then you could probably simply clean it with a shot of WD40 and a bit of scrubbing = £0

WD40 despite popular opinion (and the way it gets advertised) is not a lubricant, it's in fact a solvent and is excellent for cleaning engine parts!

Amazing what it will do.

http://www.wd40.co.uk/media/images/a/8/LIST_OF_2_000_USES.pdf

bigjl

As above, give it a good clean, though I would personally use carb cleaner, don't scrub too hard, just in case you cause any damage to it.

I have a Tdci Mondeo, and I keep on meaning to get round to cleaning my EGR.

Hammyman

Me too. Its been 50k since I've cleaned mine and I really must do it again. There's an excellent guide on the internet and its a DIY job needing nothing more than a few spanners, a pile of rags and some cleaning fluid.

Actually if it stops raining today, I might do it and document it.

bigjl

Mine has recently started to leave a little, erm, smoke on hard acceleration.

No rough running thoug, hence my lazyness, I also have large hands and don't fancy getting them down into the gap any time soon, it was bad enough changing a split boost hose last year.

sysiphus

Hi

My EGR valve has also been playing up.

There is a product called Wynns EGR cleaner specifically designed for the job. It removes all of the deposits that clog up the EGR and doesn't leave a residue.

Just don't use it anywhere that you don't want to leave a very large soot deposit! Check out the youtube videos to see what I mean!

Hammyman

OK...just done it. As you can see from my last post, its taken 3/4hr including uploading piccies and creating this post. It actually took 30 minutes from start to finish including putting tools away although the time taken to do it will depend on how bad it is. Mine was in good shape.

So....
Firstly, remove dipstick and pull off the plastic engine cover. At the front of the engine, you're looking for this - I've left it a decent size as it'll make explaining easier:


OK.. So tools. You'll need a short flatblade screwdriver, a 10mm spanner and an 8mm socket fitted to a ratchet with at least a 4" extension bar.

Firstly, undo the two 10mm nuts on the right of the unit.
Secondly, undo the hose clamp on the bottom of the unit and pull the hose off
Third, pull off the vacuum pipe on the right - later models had an electrical socket instead there but remove the plug if its electronic
Finally undo the two 8mm bolts holding it onto the plastic exhaust manifold and remove. As you remove it and pull to the left, the metal pipe on the right will come off. There's a metal gasket there - don't lose it.

Onto the next picture.


The tube part is the bit that gets gunked up. Mine is actually very clean. When I first did it, it was caked up so solid that there was a hole literally just over an inch in diameter for all the air to get through. - this is pretty much how mine looked the first time: IF YOURS IS AS BAD AS MINE WAS YOU WILL NEED TO TAKE OFF THE INLET MANIFOLD AS WELL AS IT'LL ALSO BE BLOCKED UP.



Removing the exhaust manifold merely needs 10mm and 13mm sockets and is quite simple to use. The gaskets are all rubber o-rings so won't need replacing. On mine, the ports for first and second cylinders were blocked up as equally as the EGR valve was as they're first in line from the valve. - here's a picture of an inlet manifold from a Ford Transit TDCi that had a badly blocked EGR valve - my first two ports were like that but the others, less so.




So onto cleaning it. You'll probably need to use a stick/screwdriver to clean out the worst then plenty of throwaway rags and cleaning fluid. Although it looks dry, believe me that once you disturb the surface it is a thick sticky black oily residue. As well as the tube, you need to concentrate on cleaning the rectangular hole halfway down the tube as this is where the piston sits. Usually the EGR fault is because the piston can't move due to being completely clogged up by gunk and rubbish. Below is a picture of the piston so you know what to look for and where to concentrate your efforts. Its a pig to get into to clean all the muck out.




Refitting is the reversal of removal. Don't forget the little metal gasket that goes on the right.

inmypocketnottheirs

Also you can use brake cleaner fluid - not brake fluid!

Hammyman

sysiphus wrote: »

Hi

My EGR valve has also been playing up.

There is a product called Wynns EGR cleaner specifically designed for the job. It removes all of the deposits that clog up the EGR and doesn't leave a residue.
!

Honestly, if its one you either squirt down the inlet or put in the tank, it doesn't. If you look at the piccies I've posted, you'll see why. Even when cleaning my "clean one", it still required lots of scraping out with a rag despite being doused and soaked by brake cleaner. I would hate to see where any deposits the so called EGR cleaner end up as the next stop is the cylinders.

sysiphus

Yeah,

Big pile of crud comes out the exhaust!