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Starting diesel after 6 years

2

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  • bryanb
    bryanb Posts: 5,031 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Thanks everyone, I've decided the best bet is fresh fuel, and get oil wherever possible, plus a few turns by hand. However I've chickened out and decided to wait till next spring. We only have one more week in France this year, so once it started I'd have to winterise it over again. One more winter will hardly make a difference judging by what folks have said. Thanks again all. I'll come back with the result.
    This is an open forum, anyone can post and I just did !
  • johnnyroper
    johnnyroper Posts: 1,592 Forumite
    epninety wrote: »
    I started a diesel truck that sat in a field for 10+ years, with not problems at all.

    Spin the engine a couple of times by hand, in the normal running direction.

    I don't know anything about the OM636, but some fresh engine oil poured over the camshaft, or down the pushrods (depending on design) would be a kindness. There won't be any oil up there until the engine has run for a few seconds otherwise. If there's any way to prime the oil system before starting, it's worth doing. Sometime you can drive the oil pump with a cordless drill, but it depends on the design.

    Spinning the engine over on the starter to get oil pressure up is no kindness IMHO, as the slow speed allows the oil film to break down over bearing surfaces, better to get to running speed as quickly as possible.

    Diesels have a minimum cranking speed at which they will start. If it cranks over at all slowly it may never start. I would start it the first time with a generous squirt of EasiStart up the air intake to make sure it starts as quickly as possible. Then hold it above idle speed for 30 seconds or so, to get oil flowing, and some heat into the cylinders.

    personally i would not use easy start unless you are sure it is pumping oil around,if it is not and you use easy start no way of switching off quickly until easy start burnt off.
    also i would let it idle until up to temp before increasing rpm just to make sure it is all ok.
  • cyclonebri1
    cyclonebri1 Posts: 12,827 Forumite
    edited 20 August 2010 at 7:20AM
    Where is Sassy when you need him ? He's the expert at resurrecting things that have been dormant for years.



    :T:T:T:T:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:Top post, but innacurate, he's still a bunny boiling she.
    I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.

    Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)

    Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed
  • davemorton
    davemorton Posts: 29,084 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Car Insurance Carver!
    Awwww come on, get her started, we were getting all excited to see if she fired up okay!
    “Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?”
    Juvenal, The Sixteen Satires
  • epninety
    epninety Posts: 563 Forumite
    personally i would not use easy start unless you are sure it is pumping oil around,if it is not and you use easy start no way of switching off quickly until easy start burnt off.
    also i would let it idle until up to temp before increasing rpm just to make sure it is all ok.

    Easistart will be long gone before you get evidence that the oil is circulating.

    The reason for increasing the revs is so the oil film doesn't break down under pressure, and wipe out a badly lubricated camshaft. When rotating slowly, the oil film has to hold the metal surfaces apart again spring pressure for longer as each revolution takes longer. This is the same as the advice normally given for breaking in a new camshaft. I've always done it with old car engines, and new builds, without problems.

    Of course, I've no way to know if I'd have had problems if I hadn't done it. :o Not going to argue, just explaining my reasons.
  • bryanb
    bryanb Posts: 5,031 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    davemorton wrote: »
    Awwww come on, get her started, we were getting all excited to see if she fired up okay!


    It'll be worth the wait till next spring. Let's see if we can maintain the excitement.
    This is an open forum, anyone can post and I just did !
  • mikey72
    mikey72 Posts: 14,680 Forumite
    epninety wrote: »
    Easistart will be long gone before you get evidence that the oil is circulating.

    The reason for increasing the revs is so the oil film doesn't break down under pressure, and wipe out a badly lubricated camshaft. When rotating slowly, the oil film has to hold the metal surfaces apart again spring pressure for longer as each revolution takes longer. This is the same as the advice normally given for breaking in a new camshaft. I've always done it with old car engines, and new builds, without problems.

    Of course, I've no way to know if I'd have had problems if I hadn't done it. :o Not going to argue, just explaining my reasons.

    I've only ever pre-lubed anything I've built.
    An old standing engine will have drained back, and the rubber seals on the crankshaft/flywheel and camshaft/pulley will have dried out.
    Revving before any oil gets to them will burn them, whereas spinning slowly on the starter won't be as bad until the oil gets there.
    Even worse if the oilways have sludged up, and it needs to be pushed through, as you will be running dry at several thousand rpm if you try to start and rev instantly.
  • johnnyroper
    johnnyroper Posts: 1,592 Forumite
    mikey72 wrote: »
    I've only ever pre-lubed anything I've built.
    An old standing engine will have drained back, and the rubber seals on the crankshaft/flywheel and camshaft/pulley will have dried out.
    Revving before any oil gets to them will burn them, whereas spinning slowly on the starter won't be as bad until the oil gets there.
    Even worse if the oilways have sludged up, and it needs to be pushed through, as you will be running dry at several thousand rpm if you try to start and rev instantly.

    agreed would not consider revving until warmed up and everything ok,same as if i have been on holiday and car been parked for a couple of weeks all oil drained back to sump.i always start it up and show it a bit of respect by letting it idle and warm up for a while especially if it has a blower fitted.
  • misterspivvy
    misterspivvy Posts: 43 Forumite
    edited 2 September 2010 at 7:44AM
    Ha! Merc OM636! I'll be suprised if it doesnt just start right up...there just isnt anything to go wrong on these. It could well be a lot older than you realise, they made these between 1949-61 before production moved to spain where they continued to be license built for non-car purposes.It shouldn't be seized from standing, diesels don't tend to do that due to superior cylinder lubrication quality of diesel fuel. Hence why its not uncommon for restorers to collect some old truck thats been sat in a field for 30 years with a 180 gardner engine in it and all it needs to start is fresh batteries.
    They used these mercedes motors in everything from cars to boats to fridge units on trucks, they just run and run- popularity with marine applications means that parts are no problem either.
    People rave about how good peugeot diesel engines are..but merc got there first. you wouldnt get 500,000 miles from an XUD without having the head off.
  • bryanb
    bryanb Posts: 5,031 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Back on the boat at last! Just fitted a 3 way valve to allow cooling water to the heat exchanger to draw from a bucket, that will allow me to suck up antifreeze without disconnecting from the seacock. Going to try a start in the next few days.
    This is an open forum, anyone can post and I just did !
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