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New patio - concrete between slabs breaking up

135

Comments

  • Pythagorous
    Pythagorous Posts: 755 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    no offence taken - i thought as much!
  • lindos90
    lindos90 Posts: 3,211 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    This is a couple of years old, but may still be interesting to read, it does raise the issue of damp proof course level too, which you should check (for your house and conservatory if the patio butts up to either)

    http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=118354
  • Tucker
    Tucker Posts: 1,098 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Wow hang on. From the pics that base looks like type 2 MOT to me.

    That's exactly what they should use and is the right base for the job. It is not gravel, it's tarmac rippings, usually 40mm pieces down to dust.

    The key is that is should be properly compacted using a heavy duty whacker. The slabs can then be laid on a mix of sand and cement using the 5 dab method.

    The base looks the right gear, it just depends if it's been compacted, if so there's nothing wrong there.
  • macman
    macman Posts: 53,129 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Apart from the absence of any visible dabs of mortar-the slabs have just been dropped onto the base-of course they're going to move.
    No free lunch, and no free laptop ;)
  • frank.hopper
    frank.hopper Posts: 208 Forumite
    Yeah looks like type 2/ scalpings to me, nothing wrong with the base if it's been wacked but it must be blinded out, either with whin dust or sand.


    http://img.skitch.com/20100707-ecq7y6jcxc4jj8i5569jcjkpcp.jpg


    You might get away 3x2s with that, but not those little 18" ones.

    Pythagorous has said there's movement, the pointing is doomed until it's corrected.
  • wallbash wrote: »
    I always use a sharp sand/cement base. But for pointing , I get myself a radio :D something to sit on , small pointing trowel . Takes me a long time. But when finished , will resist a power washer.

    Brushing in a mixture , might well be fast , but will require maintenance.

    I was thinking of using a really wet mix, maybe even just a cement water grout and using a tiling grout float to finish the joints. I suppose it will depend on the type of slab as to the ease of wiping it off........maybe a test on a slab first......
  • wallbash
    wallbash Posts: 17,775 Forumite
    using a really wet mix,

    NO !!! the reverse ..... a really dry mix.

    A wet mix will stain the slabs , look really terrible.The test , pick up some in your hand, squeeze, if it stays in a ball but does not stain your hand , thats correct.
  • wallbash
    wallbash Posts: 17,775 Forumite
    Use a 'chopping' action , side of trowel , really compact the mortar.Then finish/smooth off.
  • Pythagorous
    Pythagorous Posts: 755 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    lindos90 wrote: »
    This is a couple of years old, but may still be interesting to read, it does raise the issue of damp proof course level too, which you should check (for your house and conservatory if the patio butts up to either)

    http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=118354

    Thanks for pointing that out I hadn't even considered that. Could well be a major issue as the patio level is now right up to the patio door!:eek:
  • ormus
    ormus Posts: 42,714 Forumite
    must say it looks a lot like a DIY job to me. it doesnt look like a very pro job.
    i always use sharp sand for slabs. and a dry mix for the grout.
    Get some gorm.
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