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Quote for decking

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  • smk77
    smk77 Posts: 3,697 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    darich wrote: »
    ok...thanks to all for the tips and prices.
    I've had a change of heart though.
    After seeing a neighbour's attempt at decking, it has inspired me to build it myself.

    I'll be able to do it in stages and spread the cost aswell since I won't have to buy everything at one time.
    I've even done some calcs to find out how much the decking will bend, check my post centres and confirm the size of joist I have in mind is sufficuent!
    Enough boring stuff.............

    Next question - I'll build it using treated timber. i've read in a few places that treated timber does not require any sort of additional protection. Then I've read in other places that it DOES require treatment to protect it.

    What are the opinions of those with decking and if protection is necessary, what is the best product?

    Many thanks again!!


    Glad to hear that you are taking my advice (post 2!) ;)

    I've *almost* finished mine. It's hard work!! I've done it in stages and have taken my time. It's so important to do it slowly, measure everything a couple of time. I've made a few mistakes along the way but nothing too drastic. For example, i've ended up with some of my joist not running parallel (a couple of cm) off like my diagram below.

    | / / / |
    | | | | |

    This means that my screws won't be in a straight line when I fully secure the boards. I'll probably have to counter sink them and cover them.

    I bought a circular saw from B&Q (Black and Decker) to cut the joists and the decking boards. If you do this, then do so test cuts on the boards first. They cut better from underneath - cutting from the top splintered mine. Also, if you are cutting angles, remember to go with the grain rather than against it.

    My joists were pressure treated so have not treated it further. I've bought stain for the decking.
  • jackieb
    jackieb Posts: 27,605 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    booty40uk wrote: »
    Hi

    I use a Ronseal decking stain on mine. It comes in various shades and is easy to apply. I dont think that you actually have to further protect but i have because pressumably it will last longer and i didnt like the colour of the bare treated wood.

    I would strongly advise against using decking paint. All the ones i have seen look great to start with but flake later and look terrible. Its also a nightmare to strip off.

    My decking is about 20 square meters and cost me approx £15 in stain. I do it every year and it still looks good.

    HTH

    Andy


    That's what our joiner advised us to use (well it was Ronseal Perfect Finish actually) - but he said to use the clear stuff. We needed 2 tubs so it cost £70. I wish i'd taken one with a bit of colour in it though as it looks like it's just new wood. Our wood was also pressure treated but that was what the joiner told us to use.
  • darich
    darich Posts: 2,145 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    smk77 wrote: »
    Glad to hear that you are taking my advice (post 2!) ;)

    I've *almost* finished mine. It's hard work!! I've done it in stages and have taken my time. It's so important to do it slowly, measure everything a couple of time. I've made a few mistakes along the way but nothing too drastic. For example, i've ended up with some of my joist not running parallel (a couple of cm) off like my diagram below.

    | / / / |
    | | | | |

    This means that my screws won't be in a straight line when I fully secure the boards. I'll probably have to counter sink them and cover them.

    I bought a circular saw from B&Q (Black and Decker) to cut the joists and the decking boards. If you do this, then do so test cuts on the boards first. They cut better from underneath - cutting from the top splintered mine. Also, if you are cutting angles, remember to go with the grain rather than against it.

    My joists were pressure treated so have not treated it further. I've bought stain for the decking.

    Exactly my plan too.
    buy main timber and build the rectangular frame.
    then position it and decide on hole location.
    dig holes
    place timber frame on temporary supports and check for level and position.
    secure legs to frame(they'll be long enough to "dangle" in the newly dug holes.
    concrete legs in allowing for a slope in concrete away from leg.
    leave temp supports in place for a few days then remove.
    hopefully at this point I'll have a nice rectangular frame sitting with a slight slope on it for drainage and in the position I want.
    Then I can buy decking boards later on...they'll then be screwed down.

    I'll need to check my lengths though....i want a board overhang of around 50mm all round.

    I've also decided to have the legs around 600mm in from the edge and because my deck will be only around 200-400 above ground, the idea is that the legs will not be visible and the deck will look like it's floating.
    At least that's the idea.....in my head it'll look great just hope it does in real life!!!

    I was advised by the timber merchant when I got a quote to day that no further treating of the wood is necessary because it is supplied to me tanalised. any applications of ronseal or similar would not increase protection, but would alter the colour if i so wished.
    any cut ends i'll protect with sealant but the main joists will not need protecting.
    The decking boards will be stained though.....I'll decide on colour once it's done even if that's a couple of months away.

    thanks all
    :)

    Keen photographer with sales in the UK and abroad.
    Willing to offer advice on camera equipment and photography if i can!
  • Griggle
    Griggle Posts: 4 Newbie
    Seems you're on to it. I was going to mention the cut ends are important to seal. Another DIY mistake seen too is posts that are cut then that cut end placed into hole on soil and concrete poured around. The posts starts to rot at the bottom. Put a small paving slab piece or similiar into the bottom of the hole. Will help you level anyway and also keep the end off the soil.
  • darich
    darich Posts: 2,145 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Griggle wrote: »
    Seems you're on to it. I was going to mention the cut ends are important to seal. Another DIY mistake seen too is posts that are cut then that cut end placed into hole on soil and concrete poured around. The posts starts to rot at the bottom. Put a small paving slab piece or similiar into the bottom of the hole. Will help you level anyway and also keep the end off the soil.

    Griggle

    I might not bother with the slab because the idea is that the legs will be "dangling" in the hole - hanging from the frame which will be on temporary supports.
    When I put concrete in the hole it will completely encase the leg including the bottom face so it won't be in contact with the soil.

    Depending on the hole size and the volume a bag of postmix concrete I may place a few bits of broken slab to help increase the volume of concrete because I want my poured concrete to slope away from the legs so I don't have any standing water next to the wood.

    Thanks! :):beer:

    Keen photographer with sales in the UK and abroad.
    Willing to offer advice on camera equipment and photography if i can!
  • darich
    darich Posts: 2,145 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Update........

    I've been buying bits and pieces and building a bit here and there.
    Some of it has gone together really easily, other parts were hard going.

    I'm about 95% finished now and oiled it today with Cuprinol Decking Oil and Protector in a pine shade.
    Most of the boards are secured but many with screws missing since I was running low and wanted to get the boards down so I'll need another box of screws to complete it.
    Handrail is optional but I'll probably do it either next year or, same as the main deck, buy a bit at a time, treat the posts in the garage then build it on a nice day. Planning on a rope handrail since it's only around 300mm off the ground.

    Thanks to those who advised and here's a pic I took today on my phone
    IMG_0188.JPG
    All the materials in the foreground will be either used/binned or stored but the main deck is built. They're sitting on a step that I built so if I post any further pics I'll make sure the area is cleared!

    In general - it's very easy from a working it out point of view. But physically it's hard work - I ended up shovelling almost a tonne of concrete in the space of a around 10days when building the foundations!!!

    If anyone is really interested or wants to have a go, then let me know....I could post a few more pics showing the stages, with details of what I did.

    WOOHOO!!!!

    Keen photographer with sales in the UK and abroad.
    Willing to offer advice on camera equipment and photography if i can!
  • oz0707
    oz0707 Posts: 914 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Whats it cost you upto now then? Do you think you 2 days labour was optimistic? Looking good mind. Rope handrail will be cheeky feature.
    As much as diy can be mse you can also end up being a busy fool taking on these things. You could probably earn alot more pro rata doing your job for the same amount of time this has taken you than a joiner would charge you to do it (and they would also do it quicker)
  • darich
    darich Posts: 2,145 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    oz0707 wrote: »
    Whats it cost you upto now then? Do you think you 2 days labour was optimistic? Looking good mind. Rope handrail will be cheeky feature.
    As much as diy can be mse you can also end up being a busy fool taking on these things. You could probably earn alot more pro rata doing your job for the same amount of time this has taken you than a joiner would charge you to do it (and they would also do it quicker)

    Cost so far is very close to what I was quoted - after all it's still just buying the timber. I did use a building supplier for most of it rather than the decking supplier. Cost differences will be minimal.

    You're right - maybe 2 days was optimistic. However, I've enjoyed building it and have a great satisfaction knowing I built it from an idea and a drawing then bought the timber - no kit. I have saved a large amount on the cost I would have had to pay the joiner to build it so in that respect I'm probably a few hundred pounds better off.

    You're also right that a joiner may have charged me less than I would have earned in the time it took him. But as I've said - I've enjoyed and am now very satisfied with the (near) final product.

    I totally agree that you can be an MSE fool and spend hours and hours trying to save a few quid. In this case though, I enjoyed the work, and have saved, I reckon, possibly as much as 3-4 days of paying someone to build it - so probably as much as £700-800 saving.

    Rope handrail - I'm not fully convinced by that idea yet. I prefer the thought of the rear and possibly left side having a fence on them to form a barrier between the deck and the shrubs. The deck is no more than 300-350mm from the ground so the handrail is really an ornamental feature rather than a safety one.

    But that's further work that I'll enjoy and can adjust as I go to suit both my budget and circumstances

    :j:j:j

    Keen photographer with sales in the UK and abroad.
    Willing to offer advice on camera equipment and photography if i can!
  • oz0707
    oz0707 Posts: 914 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    rope = no painting
  • darich
    darich Posts: 2,145 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    oz0707 wrote: »
    rope = no painting

    Very true.
    I'll need to decide whether I want the good looks of a handrail/fence or the low/no maintenance of a rope!

    Keen photographer with sales in the UK and abroad.
    Willing to offer advice on camera equipment and photography if i can!
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