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help identify these lock types
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Phone CIS is my advice.:beer: Well aint funny how its the little things in life that mean the most? Not where you live, the car you drive or the price tag on your clothes.
Theres no dollar sign on piece of mind
This Ive come to know...
So if you agree have a drink with me, raise your glasses for a toast :beer:0 -
"Yale" is a brand of lock manufacturers not a type of lock . The first one as I said, is a mortice lock ie it is built into the door itself. It could still be a five lever lock. If it doesn't explicitly state it then there may be a British Standards kite number to indicate the specific standard.
Neither of those locks has 5 levers. In fact, neither of them has any levers. They are a different type of lock that uses pins, like a Yale lock. If you had read what I posted you'd have seen that. I also said that they are not as secure as a 5 lever lock.No reliance should be placed on the above! Absolutely none, do you hear?0 -
Neither of those locks has 5 levers. In fact, neither of them has any levers. They are a different type of lock that uses pins, like a Yale lock. If you had read what I posted you'd have seen that. I also said that they are not as secure as a 5 lever lock.0
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some good and decent advice from "what we can see"
my pennies worth.
The garage door if connecting into the main house should be a fire check door stamped and to a BS regs standard and should be inch and three quarters minimum thick if glazed the glass needs to be pyro glass bs approved your door looks a standard compressed door but i hope im wrong check these before worrying about the lock. The lock looking at its age is a 3 pin which isnt reccommended for insurance reasons but looking at the door the lock seems to be the strongest part.
The Patio
Again age shows its prob swinging arm euro lock i cant work out why the plate covering the lock is missing (is that the outside?)If so it makes the lock much more vunerable to break and enter.The shoot hooks are now dated and need other systems to support it just to ensure basic safety Im not a locksmith just a window fitter but could get through both these in seconds with a decent screwdriver or spade even less if i dont give a monkey about damage
Both locks could do with being replaced in case previous tennants have keys anyway but not difficult to replace 20 minutes tops and could do yourself:cool: hard as nails on the internet . wimp in the real world :cool:0 -
some good and decent advice from "what we can see"
my pennies worth.
The garage door if connecting into the main house should be a fire check door stamped and to a BS regs standard and should be inch and three quarters minimum thick if glazed the glass needs to be pyro glass bs approved your door looks a standard compressed door but i hope im wrong check these before worrying about the lock. The lock looking at its age is a 3 pin which isnt reccommended for insurance reasons but looking at the door the lock seems to be the strongest part.
The Patio
Again age shows its prob swinging arm euro lock i cant work out why the plate covering the lock is missing (is that the outside?)If so it makes the lock much more vunerable to break and enter.The shoot hooks are now dated and need other systems to support it just to ensure basic safety Im not a locksmith just a window fitter but could get through both these in seconds with a decent screwdriver or spade even less if i dont give a monkey about damage
Both locks could do with being replaced in case previous tennants have keys anyway but not difficult to replace 20 minutes tops and could do yourself
brilliant advice greenface!
garage door is wooden, probably standard compressed door as you have suggested. it does not have any fire checked stamp.
patio: yes, the photo is for the outside keyhole. now i know what the glue marks are for near the keyhole - the plate is missing leaving the marks!
i am now thinking if there is even any point of getting insurance with these locks if my claim is likely to be denied in the event of theft.
would you know roughly how much will it cost to replace both these locks? if less than 100, i might just get it done for safety, i dont want to spend money on someone elses property and if it is going to be expensive, i guess i will just have to live with it0 -
you can stick lipstick on pig but its still a pig.
What i would do
Replace the locks to prevent any previous tennants or neighbours that have been left keys in the past(less than £55/60).But its more the workings of a lock system than the lock (barrel) thats a problem.
Looking at the age and style of the compressed door between garage and house tells me it should never have been put there in the first place in case of a fire and/or explosion and replacing a lock in your patio may not be enough to please your insurance it needs other types and extra securities to make sure the door is secure when locked and cannot be forced/lifted but you can still get out from easily just in case and in little time.Insurance covers fire, floods,accidental damage not just theft and has to be benificial to your LL for you to be fully covered(possibly insisted on). Its really is worth taking out but also worth telling your LL your worries and if any claims are revoked because of their not meeting the regs they will be liable to compensate you
Find a day when you and your family have a bit of time dismantle the door handles remove the locks have a good look at them and WITH A FAMILY MEMBER IN THE HOUSE take them to be renewed:cool: hard as nails on the internet . wimp in the real world :cool:0 -
you can stick lipstick on pig but its still a pig.
Like that!
About the fire door. it's only an issue if you actually keep the car in the garage. Lots of people don't. Ours is full of the kids' bikes and things like that.No reliance should be placed on the above! Absolutely none, do you hear?0
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