Do i need a powerflush?

armyguy

So do you think it is a power-flush job then, are there any other possibilities, considering the alterations downstairs (shown on the diagram(the plastic piping and t junctions coming off the original copper pipes?)

Canucklehead

armyguy wrote: »

I've attached a diagram of the layout downstairs, i can't see upstairs layout as its under floor boards.

Also of note is (see pic for details) that the kitchen and living room rad have been added at a later time due to plastic piping T-Junctioning off original copper piping.

img196.imageshack.us/img196/9421/radsk.jpg

Hi

IMO this is the main problem.
I will assume that the pipes coming down the wall are in 10mm.
Rads on microbore are generally fed from a manifold so a pair of pipes will feed one radiator.
What someone may have done is feed another two rads from a pair of pipes intended to feed only one rad.
It won't work.
You need to trace where the pipework starts on the two pipes down the wall.
If I'm wrong have it flushed!(And check the pump)

There is nothing wrong with microbore (if it's so bad why are there microbore systems in new build houses? Buy a TRV and you will most likely find a reducer in it to 10mm.) This kind of thing can and will happen on 15/22mm flow and returns if the system is extended beyond it's capabilities.



GSR.

armyguy

I think your right Canucklehead, there defo is only 1 feed and 1 return 10mm pipes feeding all 3 rads downstairs with 2 of the rads t-junctioned off the main pipes. I'l trace it back today and let you know. Out of interest what is a manifold.

I'm assuming that i will need to have another feed down to the rad in the living room, or could i just put 22mm piping down the the one in the dining room instead of 10mm already in place then leave the 10mm feeds running off that to the other 2 rads? How much do you think this would cost roughly?

Canucklehead

Hi

Manifolds Also available in copper.

Not sure how to address the pipework. I don't know if you would have two spare ways on the manifold (if there is one) I would think re-doing it in 22 /15mm would look neater running down and along the wall.
Cost, don't know.

Maybe plumb1's contact could help you?


GSR

plumb1_2

armyguy wrote: »

I think your right Canucklehead, there defo is only 1 feed and 1 return 10mm pipes feeding all 3 rads downstairs with 2 of the rads t-junctioned off the main pipes. I'l trace it back today and let you know. Out of interest what is a manifold.

I'm assuming that i will need to have another feed down to the rad in the living room, or could i just put 22mm piping down the the one in the dining room instead of 10mm already in place then leave the 10mm feeds running off that to the other 2 rads? How much do you think this would cost roughly?

Just noticed your diagram, if you have 1 pair 10mm of drops feeding 3 rads:eek: It will not work, it will have to be re-piped. Best to put a drop to each rad, t'd off the main circuit. if you can post some pics that would help.

keystone

Canucklehead wrote: »

There is nothing wrong with microbore (if it's so bad why are there microbore systems in new build houses?

In case my earlir post in this thread has been misunderstood I didn't say there was anything wrong with it - I said I don't like it.

Cheers

AGBAGB

Does sound like pipework design. However sludge will make the problem worse.

Before going to great lengths it could be worth trying -

1. Some flushing/cleaning solution in the system
2. Turning all but one rad off.
3. Pump on max.
The faster flow to the one rad can sometimes clear out sludge
4. Same on the other two rads.
5. Empty, flush and refill.

pegasusheatingltd

Hi All, power flushing does work, infact it works fantastically if its done correctly. I know this as I do it.
British Gas are super expencive, thats how they can afford 10 TV adverts each day plus flyers ect ect. An experienced power flushing company should charge approx "£250 plus VAT if VAT registered to clean a system of up to 7 radiators. If the system is bigger than this then extra charges will be added. The total cost should include the cost of chemicals used, cleaner, neutraliser and inhibitor. Please note budget chemicals are useless. Always ensure the company doing the powerflush uses superior products. I and many others in this game trust Kamco, yes the chemicals are a touch on the expencive side but they work! DIY can clean your system but the results are not the same and mistakes are costly!! Add to this when you add a cleaner into your system it is circulated by the use of your own C/H pump, this is not a powerflush pump and also you cannot change the direction of the water as you do when you powerflush. Yes powerflushing is or would seem to be expencive but the results out weigh the cost, unless British Gas do the job.. The down side of powerflushing is quite simple. It cleans your system, if your system is held together by dirt and debris that is blocking pin holes then these pin holes will leek.. This is not the fault of the powerflush its the fault of the system.
Most insurance companies now are not paying out if they can pin the cause of the fault on sludge, black water or debris. In a way its a great get out of jail card fro them but it is logical, iron oxidisation is what is happening inside your system and I wouldnt put my name to a system that is on its way out because of rust. Shame they dont tell you this when they take your money..:(

armyguy

Hi, well its been a while because i had to go away. Anyway i checked my central heating system and i think it is what you guys have been saying, attached is a my manifold for feed and return, what i need to do is add one more run for the radiator downstairs but as you can see there is no space to add other runs. So my question is do i need to buy a bigger manifold or could i simply add a plastic manifold on the end of the ones currently there. Something like this > http://www.uk-plumbing.com/Hepworth-Hep2O-Two-Port-Manifold-Closed-Spigot-22mm-x-10mm-p-1892.html

Thanks


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Canucklehead

Hi,

Welcome home?

Looking at the photo I would be wary of the manifold.
If I were to do this I would first clean up the manifolds to see if the corrosion /leaks have made it risky to reuse.
If they are sound then cut the top end off and use the HEP20.
If you need to replace the whole thing then make sure you cut the microbore back with no burrs or dents so that when you push them into the joint the 'o' ring doesn't tear.(use silcone lube)
Refill with inhibitor.

Good luck


GSR.