Electricains : Help

p4u1_2

It sounds to me as if you need a dedicated radial circuit rated at 32A to supply both the cooker and hob. The cable required would be 6mm2 twin & earth. Both the cooker and hob can be supplied via the one cooker control unit. Having said all of this, you should check that the rating of the cooker and hob combined before going any further. The installation guides that came with the appliances should state the cabling requirements.

Bear in mind that this work must be certificated as per part P of the building regs effective January 2005. This being the case, I would suggest using a qualified electrician to do the work.

YorkshireBoy

p4u1 wrote:

Both the cooker and hob can be supplied via the one cooker control unit.

This would mean the 1.5mm2 cable on the single oven was protected ONLY by the 32A device back at the consumer unit. Clearly UNSAFE.

Your method would work only if a fused connection unit was used (perhaps in an adjacent cupboard) for the oven. This should be fused at 13A and supplied with 6mm2 from the cooker control switch.

p4u1_2

YorkshireBoy wrote:

This would mean the 1.5mm2 cable on the single oven was protected ONLY by the 32A device back at the consumer unit. Clearly UNSAFE.

Your method would work only if a fused connection unit was used (perhaps in an adjacent cupboard) for the oven. This should be fused at 13A and supplied with 6mm2 from the cooker control switch.

My point is that one circuit breaker, one cable, one cooker switch to supply both cooker and hob. I did not mention cable sizes from the cooker control switch to the appliances. See the following:

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/diy_electrics_cooker_circuits.htm

The cabling to each appliance should be 6mm2 as it is being protected by a 32A breaker. I understand your comment, but my concern, having used 6mm2 cable is protecting the appliances with a 32A breaker which is obviously a lot higher than the draw on any one appliance. For example, a fault develops in the cooker, with the hob switched off, excluding earth leakage faults, the current draw on the cooker would be 32A before the breaker trips.

homeless75

Update,

Just had another sparky in now and he went thrgough all connections with hubby and check every socket that he has changed or touched in anyway and says ... " everything is spot on ... do you want a job working with me mate ? "

How can there be such a vast difference in opinions from one to another ?

Hes coming back as we have requested him to do connections for dishwasher and will ask him to give us a written declarations that the whole thing is safe .....

So Thanks a million money savers ... appreciate all your posts and views ....

Thanks again

Homeless75