Central heating not working?

thursdaynext

Hi - I am hoping someone can point out the really obvious thing I missed or ought to know...

My central heating was working fine this morning, it was off when I went out & when I came back I bled 3 of the (cold) radiators. Then I put the heating back on.

But the radiators aren't getting hot! There's all the right noises (it's quite a noisy system!) so something is happening, and I still have hot water, but the radiators are just not doing anything.

Is this because of the bleeding - does it take longer for them to heat up after being bled - or am I clutching at straws and actually that's not a possible explanation?

Thanks!

arfurrrr

what boiler is it , does it have a filling loop or tank fed

thursdaynext

Er - you've lost me already I'm afraid, I am not what you might call technical... How would I tell?

arfurrrr

ok , have a look on the front of the boiler and tell me wat you can see , make , model etc etc ,

do you have a cylinder ?

thursdaynext

It says Baxi - that's all. The logbook says it was installed by British Gas in October 2000 if that helps...

In any case - I remembered I have home emergency cover on my home insurance, rang them & they're going to send someone tomorrow (I know that they're limited in what they do but a temporary repair to see me through Christmas would be enough...) Thank you for trying to help though!

keystone

I bled radiators now heating doesn't work but HW does says to me thats its a combi boiler. In "bleeding" the rads you've taken the pressure off the CH system. Whats the pressure reading on the guage? If low connect the filling loop and refill to iro 1.5 bar. Your CH will, I predict, now work unless there is another problem not yet identified.

Combs have a separate heat exchanger for DHW and CH and they have separate circuits. DHW circuit is always fed from mains whereas the CH is only topped up from mains when necessary.

Cheers

sandiep

What he says, above

2a1d

keystone wrote: »

I bled radiators now heating doesn't work but HW does says to me thats its a combi boiler. In "bleeding" the rads you've taken the pressure off the CH system. Whats the pressure reading on the guage? If low connect the filling loop and refill to iro 1.5 bar. Your CH will, I predict, now work unless there is another problem not yet identified.

Combs have a separate heat exchanger for DHW and CH and they have separate circuits. DHW circuit is always fed from mains whereas the CH is only topped up from mains when necessary.

Cheers

Didn't want to start a new topic.

Bled radiators, combi boiler says pressure is now 0.
The Filling loop was left on and hence I've tried the valves in various ways in order to increase the pressure but absolutely nothing happens.
This is th first time I've ever touched a boiler so I'm new to it all, but I'm pretty sure I've been doing things right.

I tried to ring the makers of the boiler for assistance but they were closed (despite it being in times they said they were open).
It's been off since yesterday and was hoping for a quick answer before having to ring the Letting Agent as they're useless.

Any help would be appreciated

*shivers*

keystone

2a1d wrote: »

The Filling loop was left on and hence I've tried the valves in various ways in order to increase the pressure but absolutely nothing happens.

Connected doesn't mean the valve is open. You said valves. Does the filling loop look physically like this one?



That on the left hand side which looks a valve is actually a check valve. If you've been screwing around (excuse the expression please) with the nut shaped device in the center it will have zero effect. The valve on the right is that which allows mains water to enter the boiler. It may have a round head as opposed to a lever or it may possibly have a slot which will take a plain flatbladed screwdriver. If its a lever then perpendicular to the valve is closed, parallel is open - just like your washing machine tap. Same for the screwdriver operated version. If they've fitted something like a rad valve then clockwise is closed and anti-clock is open. Sorry if thats a bit of an idiots guide but covering all bases at the outset helps. If you open the right hand (on the picture) valve then mains water should flow into the boiler and the pressure will start to rise - if the system is cold then stop when pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Can you describe what other valves may have adjusted, where they are and what you have done to them please? It may be that you have also turned off an isolator further down the ipiework toeards the mains.

Also please what is the model and make of your boiler.

This is th first time I've ever touched a boiler so I'm new to it all, but I'm pretty sure I've been doing things right.

It'll be OK.

HTH

Cheers

keystone

By the way is the loop on the right way round? There should be directional arrows on both the check valve and the inlet valve. These indicate the required direction of flow. The inlet valve will work if its going through the wrong way. The check valve will do what its supposed to do (prevent backflow) and if that is the wrong way round nothing will get past it 'cos its one way only.

Cheers

2a1d

Thanks for the quick reply, I'm gonna go up the loft now to check the things you've mentioned.

It's an Ariston Clas HE System (18, 24, or 30)