Real wood oak flooring on UFH

leefire

Hi there I would really apreciate any help or advice. My Dad has had water underfloor heating put throughout his new bungalow, and had it screeded with cement. He has bought real wood flooring, Oak 18mm thick planks of all different sizes. What is the best way to lay it? Hoping to float it and just glue the joints will this be ok? How long does the floor need to dry out? and he also wants to lay it on an angle.

leefire

After much looking on tinternet im thinking a floating floor, glueing the joints. and laying a damp proof membrane with 2mm foam underlay ontop. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Doozergirl

I don't think you're supposed to lay solid wood over UFH! The heat variations can cause it to warp.

leefire

Well there is a lot of people whom say you cant, on the internet because of expansion ect. They say laminate or engineered wood is the best for less movement. Yet there are loads of sites that say real wood floor work very well, especially oak. I have spoke to people whom have used RWF on screeded UFH and said it works fine so I think all the laminate companies are just making it all up. Im very synical though.

Doozergirl

leefire wrote: »

Well there is a lot of people whom say you cant, on the internet because of expansion ect. They say laminate or engineered wood is the best for less movement. Yet there are loads of sites that say real wood floor work very well, especially oak. I have spoke to people whom have used RWF on screeded UFH and said it works fine so I think all the laminate companies are just making it all up. Im very synical though.

The company I was talking to about it only sold solid and engineered flooring. He was pushing us in the engineered direction obviously.

leefire

When ive looked at the real wood, engineered and laminate. The laminate looks rubbish and the engineered looks better but still it doesnt look as good as real wood floor.Wouldnt you think that they would make the engineered look the same. Band Q sell damp proof membrane and foam so i think im gonna go with that. I did find a good tip to see if your concrete floor is dry enough. Lay down a 1 mtr square of clear damp proof membrane and tape it down at the edges. Leave for 24 hrs and then lift it and if the floor is still wet then the underside of the DPM will be wet too.

1984ReturnsForReal_2

I dont think 18mm solid real wood floors are supposed to float....

I believe they need to be nailed or glued to the underneath.

jfj1958

leefire wrote: »

Hi there I would really apreciate any help or advice. My Dad has had water underfloor heating put throughout his new bungalow, and had it screeded with cement. He has bought real wood flooring, Oak 18mm thick planks of all different sizes. What is the best way to lay it? Hoping to float it and just glue the joints will this be ok? How long does the floor need to dry out? and he also wants to lay it on an angle.

Have a look at a product called elastilon. By far the best way to float a solid oak floor on concrete

jfj1958

Have a look at a product called Elastilon. This is by far the best wat to float an Oak floor on concrete. John

Mutter_2

You'll find all the answers here.http://www.nu-heat.co.uk/s.nl/sc.7/category.116/ctype.KB/KB.116/.f

leveller2911

1984ReturnsForReal wrote: »

I dont think 18mm solid real wood floors are supposed to float....

I believe they need to be nailed or glued to the underneath.

Hi 1984, take a look at www.junkers.co.uk I have fitted a few of these and they are very good. The floor is a solid timber floating floor (held down by the skirting at the perimeter of the room) which can be 18mm thick and pre finished.You put down a membrane and then the floor board click into place via a metal clip inserted into the bottom of the previous board.The clip in really well and nice n tight too.

Because its pre finished theres no waiting time when oiling or laquering.Junkers flooring can be used with underfloor heating as it has a very low moisture content to start with...