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Golf experts?

Fork86
Fork86 Posts: 398 Forumite
Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
edited 15 September 2009 at 12:58AM in Motoring
Hey guys, just wanted to pick some of your brains about an issue I have been having with my Mk4 Golf (1.6 Auto). Here's a 'brief' history.

I had a reconditioned engine put in back in September, as well as a new water pump and coolant temperature sensor. While the car drove like new, I noticed the car would never warm up, or take ages to warm up, considerably cool back down if I drove at 35+mph, along with a string of STOP, check coolant' signs.

Having also noticed my car was quickly losing coolant (as well as some caramel/chocolatey sludge in the coolant bottle), we discovered the thermostat housing was cracked, and the coolant tank screw caps seal had diminshed

Once the screw cap, housing and thermostat were replaced, the coolant loss and heating up issues were immediately solved. The car now heats up to 90 in around 4-6 minutes.

I have now noticed that after driving for around 25 odd minutes, the needle on the temperature gauge rises ever so slightly a few mm's over the thick white line indicating 90 degrees C, and quickly comes back down to settle at the end on the 90 degree marker. Note though that the needle never rises to the red (130), and only seldom gets to the next white marking (100 degrees) before quickly climbing back down to 90. The fan seems to work fine when the car is still. I only notice the temperature to slightly fluctuate over the 90 mark while I am driving.

Now, after having driven other Mk 4's, am I right to assume that the temperature gauge should settle and not move at all from 90 degrees?

Does any one have any ideas what the issue could be? Is it a faulty thermostat, coolant temperature sensor (have had new ones fitted recently) or fan switch? Could it be more serious like a cracked head gasket/ dodgy water pump? (again, have had a reconditioned engine and the car hasn't actually over heated to 130 degrees).

While I would have thought the sludge in the coolant bottle could indicate a head gasket problem, I have heard the oil cooler could also be a cause of this.

Any opinions on this issue would be much appreciated.
Try to imagine nothing ever existed...
«134

Comments

  • Fork86 wrote: »
    Hey guys, just wanted to pick some of your brains about an issue I have been having with my Mk4 Golf (1.6 Auto). Here's a 'brief' history.

    I had a reconditioned engine put in back in September, as well as a new water pump and coolant temperature sensor. While the car drove like new, I noticed the car would never warm up, or take ages to warm up, considerably cool back down if I drove at 35+mph, along with a string of STOP, check coolant' signs.

    Having also noticed my car was quickly losing coolant (as well as some caramel/chocolatey sludge in the coolant bottle), we discovered the thermostat housing was cracked, and the coolant tank screw caps seal had diminshed

    Once the screw cap, housing and thermostat were replaced, the coolant loss and heating up issues were immediately solved. The car now heats up to 90 in around 4-6 minutes.

    I have now noticed that after driving for around 25 odd minutes, the needle on the temperature gauge rises ever so slightly a few mm's over the thick white line indicating 90 degrees C, and quickly comes back down to settle at the end on the 90 degree marker. Note though that the needle never rises to the red (130), and only seldom gets to the next white marking (100 degrees) before quickly climbing back down to 90. The fan seems to work fine when the car is still. I only notice the temperature to slightly fluctuate over the 90 mark while I am driving.

    Now, after having driven other Mk 4's, am I right to assume that the temperature gauge should settle and not move at all from 90 degrees?

    Does any one have any ideas what the issue could be? Is it a faulty thermostat, coolant temperature sensor (have had new ones fitted recently) or fan switch? Could it be more serious like a cracked head gasket/ dodgy water pump? (again, have had a reconditioned engine and the car hasn't actually over heated to 130 degrees).

    While I would have thought the sludge in the coolant bottle could indicate a head gasket problem, I have heard the oil cooler could also be a cause of this.

    Any opinions on this issue would be much appreciated.

    My advice would be get shot, i have a brand new golf and it has been in and out of the garage so much that one of their mechanics now drops off the courtesy car and picks up mine, he often has it over weekends to try and get a true appreciation of the problem, VW reliability my A RSE
  • cyclonebri1
    cyclonebri1 Posts: 12,827 Forumite
    Fork86 wrote: »
    Hey guys, just wanted to pick some of your brains about an issue I have been having with my Mk4 Golf (1.6 Auto). Here's a 'brief' history.

    I had a reconditioned engine put in back in September, as well as a new water pump and coolant temperature sensor. While the car drove like new, I noticed the car would never warm up, or take ages to warm up, considerably cool back down if I drove at 35+mph, along with a string of STOP, check coolant' signs.

    Having also noticed my car was quickly losing coolant (as well as some caramel/chocolatey sludge in the coolant bottle), we discovered the thermostat housing was cracked, and the coolant tank screw caps seal had diminshed

    Once the screw cap, housing and thermostat were replaced, the coolant loss and heating up issues were immediately solved. The car now heats up to 90 in around 4-6 minutes.

    I have now noticed that after driving for around 25 odd minutes, the needle on the temperature gauge rises ever so slightly a few mm's over the thick white line indicating 90 degrees C, and quickly comes back down to settle at the end on the 90 degree marker. Note though that the needle never rises to the red (130), and only seldom gets to the next white marking (100 degrees) before quickly climbing back down to 90. The fan seems to work fine when the car is still. I only notice the temperature to slightly fluctuate over the 90 mark while I am driving.

    Now, after having driven other Mk 4's, am I right to assume that the temperature gauge should settle and not move at all from 90 degrees?

    Does any one have any ideas what the issue could be? Is it a faulty thermostat, coolant temperature sensor (have had new ones fitted recently) or fan switch? Could it be more serious like a cracked head gasket/ dodgy water pump? (again, have had a reconditioned engine and the car hasn't actually over heated to 130 degrees).

    While I would have thought the sludge in the coolant bottle could indicate a head gasket problem, I have heard the oil cooler could also be a cause of this.

    Any opinions on this issue would be much appreciated.

    Yes, I think you are worrying for nothing. The problem seems to have been addressed. The "mayonase" in the water will have been due to the condensation produced by overcooling of the engine, does sometimes take a while to dissappear tho'. What you do seem to be seeing is the operation of the thermostat at point of opening, which is normally at about 87 to 91 C. I think its just a charachteristic of that particular stat:confused:
    The temps seem ideal to me, and you can see the system working.

    HWINITK obviously has a gripe with VW, probably justified in his particular circumstances, but I don't hold with the one make good, other make bad faction;)
    I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.

    Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)

    Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed
  • Pssst
    Pssst Posts: 4,803 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts
    Hmmm...doesnt sound like you have a problem. I wonder why it had a recon'd engine at such an early age?

    Trade it in for a Mk3. They are bomb proof.
  • Pssst wrote: »
    I wonder why it had a recon'd engine at such an early age?

    Its one of these modern reliable VW's, just need to spend several grand a year keeping it running, of course this is great as they dont depreciate too quickly :rotfl:
  • Fork86
    Fork86 Posts: 398 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    Hewhoisotintheknow, trust me, I have contemplated selling it, but between me and my dad investing 3,600 odd pound on 2 reconditioned engines (the first being a dud from heathrow motors.who apparently didn't actually change anything in my engine), I am tempted to keep it if there is any chance it will serve for a few years.

    pssst, the original headgasket had gone as a result of the failing cambelt and waterpump. I just don't understand why they made such a naff/vulnerable engine for these mk4's.

    Cyclonebri1, are you sure there isn't a possibility of an underlying issue? Also, I had a look at the coolant level, it seems to have been filled above the max fill line. Could that cause any problems?
    Try to imagine nothing ever existed...
  • Fork86 wrote: »
    Hewhoisotintheknow, trust me, I have contemplated selling it, but between me and my dad investing 3,600 odd pound on 2 reconditioned engines (the first being a dud from heathrow motors.who apparently didn't actually change anything in my engine), I am tempted to keep it if there is any chance it will serve for a few years.

    pssst, the original headgasket had gone as a result of the failing cambelt and waterpump. I just don't understand why they made such a naff/vulnerable engine for these mk4's.

    Cyclonebri1, are you sure there isn't a possibility of an underlying issue? Also, I had a look at the coolant level, it seems to have been filled above the max fill line. Could that cause any problems?


    Any decent car will have a pressure valve that will blow off extra coolant, not sure if your golf has one.

    I hope you never buy anything ffrom VW again!
  • Fork86
    Fork86 Posts: 398 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    Any decent car will have a pressure valve that will blow off extra coolant, not sure if your golf has one.

    I hope you never buy anything ffrom VW again!

    Don't worry, I won't be. It's either BMW, Lexus or Honda from now on.
    Try to imagine nothing ever existed...
  • cyclonebri1
    cyclonebri1 Posts: 12,827 Forumite
    Fork86 wrote: »
    Hewhoisotintheknow, trust me, I have contemplated selling it, but between me and my dad investing 3,600 odd pound on 2 reconditioned engines (the first being a dud from heathrow motors.who apparently didn't actually change anything in my engine), I am tempted to keep it if there is any chance it will serve for a few years.

    pssst, the original headgasket had gone as a result of the failing cambelt and waterpump. I just don't understand why they made such a naff/vulnerable engine for these mk4's.

    Cyclonebri1, are you sure there isn't a possibility of an underlying issue? Also, I had a look at the coolant level, it seems to have been filled above the max fill line. Could that cause any problems?


    No that simply reduces the air pocket that allows for expansion, it means it will blow off quicker if it over heats. No long term issue.

    Now youv'e added the head gasket went, this will also add to the mayo effect, no long term issues. Trust me, I'm a car docter;);)
    I like the thanks button, but ,please, an I agree button.

    Will the grammar and spelling police respect I do make grammatical errors, and have carp spelling, no need to remind me.;)

    Always expect the unexpected:eek:and then you won't be dissapointed
  • Sounds like you are worrying too much, but on saying that i would keep an eye on things and if they get any worse get rid of it. VW's reliability is shocking now, but the biggest scandal is the amount of oil they use, some of them need topped up monthly.
  • vaio
    vaio Posts: 12,287 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Fork86 wrote: »
    Hey guys, just wanted to pick some of your brains about an issue I have been having with my Mk4 Golf (1.6 Auto). Here's a 'brief' history.

    I had a reconditioned engine put in back in September, as well as a new water pump and coolant temperature sensor. While the car drove like new, I noticed the car would never warm up, or take ages to warm up, considerably cool back down if I drove at 35+mph, along with a string of STOP, check coolant' signs.

    Having also noticed my car was quickly losing coolant (as well as some caramel/chocolatey sludge in the coolant bottle), we discovered the thermostat housing was cracked, and the coolant tank screw caps seal had diminshed

    Once the screw cap, housing and thermostat were replaced, the coolant loss and heating up issues were immediately solved. The car now heats up to 90 in around 4-6 minutes.

    I have now noticed that after driving for around 25 odd minutes, the needle on the temperature gauge rises ever so slightly a few mm's over the thick white line indicating 90 degrees C, and quickly comes back down to settle at the end on the 90 degree marker. Note though that the needle never rises to the red (130), and only seldom gets to the next white marking (100 degrees) before quickly climbing back down to 90. The fan seems to work fine when the car is still. I only notice the temperature to slightly fluctuate over the 90 mark while I am driving.

    Now, after having driven other Mk 4's, am I right to assume that the temperature gauge should settle and not move at all from 90 degrees?

    Does any one have any ideas what the issue could be? Is it a faulty thermostat, coolant temperature sensor (have had new ones fitted recently) or fan switch? Could it be more serious like a cracked head gasket/ dodgy water pump? (again, have had a reconditioned engine and the car hasn't actually over heated to 130 degrees).

    While I would have thought the sludge in the coolant bottle could indicate a head gasket problem, I have heard the oil cooler could also be a cause of this.

    Any opinions on this issue would be much appreciated.

    The not heating up/water loss would have been caused by the failed ‘stat and cap as you suggest.

    The slight fluctuation in the temperature gauge is normal and nothing to worry about.

    The only thing I’d be concerned about is the “caramel/chocolatey sludge” this is normally indicative of head gasket issues although as every thing is back to normal now I’d guess the sludge was left over from the previous failed engine.

    I’d give the engine and rad a good flush out (it’s anti-freeze season soon) and if it doesn’t recur then you’re done.

    There are some VWs which have a water to oil cooler, if they corrode then you’ll get oil getting into the water so keep an eye on oil level too
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