Dulux Trade Paint -Ruined Walls!!

paullwill8

Ignore peoples negative comments regarding PVA. THIS STUFF WORKS WONDERS AS A SEALER AND PRIMER.
I have used Unibond Super PVA on many a job and never had any problems.
August last year i applied pva to a fairly large bathroom which was giving my customer all sorts of problems, ie peeling/flaking, painted on top with Dulux Bathroom paint and it is still fine.
If you use PVA use unibond super with 20% water added.
Good luck.

BC2K3 wrote:

Hi all, thanks for the comments!!

HazeyJ: I've been on to the builders, the management company and NHBC. Each blame each other and claim they cant help...however the builder (BOVIS) is complete joke! They always promise to return calls, and pass the case onto a manager... In about 30 calls I've not been contacted once! I'm now awaiting (so far 18 days) for a response to my 'written formal complaint' from the customer services Director. -Useless builder! :mad:

George and Paul: I've sanded the wall down and tested an area with normal Matt emulsion as I've been told the Supermatt is really only intended for 'new' plaster walls. Its better, but still patchy.
The wall is an internal wall and I'm pretty sure its not damp. (The marks on the pic were from where it was sanded).
One night this week I'm going for a sand down of the wall and a full PVA!! This is the only thing I've not done (but have used the Dulux Primer Sealer).
It still appears the emulsion is absorbed into the wall which I'm hoping the PVA will fix. The lining paper pic is not it 'falling' from the wall, thats how easy I can pull it of the wall! (No scraper or water required).

I'll have to be a bit careful when sanding as the wall IS only plasterboard, and too much sanding will rub away the paper layer and leave me the chalk filling!

Of course the fact that 3 people have now looked at my walls and scratched their heads is a bit of a worry...

I'll keep you all updated with the process, and any comments\advice always welcome.

LittleJo: If it would help I would! But I think that would cost me a load, and I might still end up paying for it! ....Ummm, anyone know a cheap Hitman...

Cheers!

hazeyj

Hi there...I havent heard from my suveyor friend as yet, but he maybe on holiday.

BC2K3

Hello all,
I'm still here! Unfortunatly I was busy working last week so spent the whole (baking) weekend doing the walls. (Sanded, Washed and PVA'd using Evo-Stik Super PVA (5parts water to 1 part PVA)).
I've been told to leave this for 2 days to fuly dry, so will be painting the walls before the weekend this week.
So far the wall 'feels' better (no rough spots) and has a varnish type finish...

Fingers crossed!! ;o)

George: Indeed you did recommend it, and I greatly appreciate your advice. I listened and went to B&Q, but on asking the assistant what PVA he recommended from the huge selection and explained what is was for...I got a 'you dont want to use that...' response!! LOL

Paulwill8: Cheers for the help, I've now taken the plunge and hopefully the PVA idea will fix it.

HazeyJ: Thank you for your help and for asking others. Well done for getting your problem sorting on the builders expence. )

Any developments I'll update you all with...its the least I can do for all the help I've had!

Cheers

god_dam_supermatt

IC that this thread has gone a bit cold lately, however i came accross it searching for people having problems with supermatt. I reallise that the problems you are having have little to do with the paint, however i have been useing supermatt as i have had my room freshly plastered. I sealed the ceiling with a watered down mix and since then have applied 3-4 coats of supermatt, after each coat it seems really patchy and dose not seem to be getting anybetter.

dont know if it will help but thought i would let you know the problems i have been having with that paint.

handyman.

you do not PVA anything when painting.

Come on people, think about it!! PVA becomes 'active' when wet. If you PVA then paint you are creating a sheet of paint on a thin layer of wet pva. Stupid stupid stupid.

You paint on new plasterboard/plaster with what is called a mist coat. This is non vynal emulsion watered down 20-30%. (something like dulux trade supermatt). See https://www.duluxtrade.co.uk and try and see where they advise this practice. These are the people who make some of the best quality paints around, just do as they say.

Nowhere on the dulux site does it say anything about pva. Could everyone please just learn this and do the job correctly.

What can happen if some muppet pvas, is you paint again in 2 years time, and the moisture reactivates the pva and you get bubbling and paint pealing off.

Could some people on this forum stop giving incorrect advise please

handyman.

As for supermatt being no good at coverage on walls, you must be doing something wrong, as its great.

Even a plasterer i know managed to put the stuff on with perfect results:)

BC2K3

:T - I thought this post had been deleted, as I searched to update it - but after about 20 pages I still couldn't find it...
Goes to show how many posts there are on this forum!

Anyway, I can only speak from experience - and I agree with PaullWill: PVA worked perfectly!

After I applied a very watered down PVA layer (1 part PVA:5 parts WATER), I left it to dry for 2 days then applied the Magnolia paint...

Went on perfectly; even got more coverage as it wasn't soaking into the walls.

Another coat later; I'm happy - walls look great.

Thanks for all the help and advice people.

<NO MORE DIY FOR ME>

windym_2

I am glad it's worked out. I have to say, I am in the non-pva camp. I have just mist coated my ceilings and walls with supermatt and am now on the first coat of colour.

I am using Albany which is a paint by Brewers and is fantastic. Coverage is good, even and the paint goes a very long way.

god_dam_supermatt

Ok i have now managed to get the ceiling perfect, and feel that i should say it wasnt really suppermats fault. Originally the patchyness was because of the bad plastering job that left dips in the ceiling. This coupleded with the medium pile roller i was using was creating shadows with the light comming through the window. I fixed this by sanding down the ceiling and filling it all over. However when i repainted i was getting a diffrent problem, roller marks ( even with watered down paint ) in the end i discovered that as i had used so much paint by this point the surface had become so pourous that its was drying B4 i had even finished my 1msq patch. Finially i sealed it with an oil based sealer and reapainted and it has come up perfect.

So altho supermatt seems to work fine after all it is worth bearing in mind that too many coats and ya !!!!!!ed.

Sorry Dulux for doubting your product, but if you do read this maybe worth bunging something about this problem on the tin/website.

P.S. i agree with handyman about the PVA, if you need to seal a wall why on earth would you use a water based product, get a proper sealing product and just do it properly. may cost a few more quid but the extra price of materials next to the labour you put in and a long lasting finish is well worth it.

George_Bray

god_dam_supermatt wrote:

... i agree with handyman about the PVA, if you need to seal a wall why on earth would you use a water based product, get a proper sealing product and just do it properly

It's interesting that we still haven't reconciled certain views on how appropriate it is to use PVA on a plasterboard wall, prior to painting with emulsion. I don't know. I haven't tried it. Some people say it won't work. I assume they mean it will cause problems either sooner or later. Others (including the OP, BC2K3) report that it works perfectly where other approaches may have failed.

So with the lack of a consensus, this thread has to a large extent failed. The advice will pretty much cancel out to zero for anyone reading this thread and thinking: "should I use PVA?"

In terms of using a water-based product, what's the problem? Plaster is water based, emulsion is water based, PVA is water based (as diluted) ...everything is water based!

Regards
George