Replace Storage Heaters

snafu_2

Any tips on draught reduction?

Yes. Fit new windows. Failing that, secondary double glazing can be very effective, even sheets of acrylic help, although there's often increased condensation in winter. Talk to a glazier, they often do simple kits. Shop around - is that possible on Orkney? - fit it yourself. It does make a huge difference.

Do a window a month or so, rather than shell out to do the whole lot at once. Start , like, today, before winter arrives.

It can be your new 'hobby' :eek:

Then do the other leaks - cavity wall etc.

Look for grants: Warmfront initiative now current etc. Be proactive. Google!

If you have a variable timed tariff, it's (often) driven by the Radio 4 Long Wave radio transmission. I kid you not. A sub-audible data transmission lives under the audio signal, and controls your meter time settings to stagger demand see:

radioteleswitch org uk

You may therefore have a 'radio teleswitch' fitted to your meter. Have a look. Normally, these control when the heating gets a charge, and usually control the hot water times too. Check it all out. Often, there's an indicator on the meter or tele-switch to tell you when you're on a low charge period. If not, fit a timer anyway. Then you can't leave the HW switched on all day.

For heat pumps, they're (usually) regarded as a top-up to your grid or main supply. So, when you win the lottery, you'd fit a wet boiler and stored water system, perhaps with an air-source heat pump in the loft, decent controls, and solar panels too.

Yeah, yeah.

Prices? A couple of grand for a stored water and rads system if you fit it yourself. Sky's the limit if you employ contractors. Have a look on the green worrior and eco-bonkers web sites or here. There's all sorts of tips.

Panel heaters - the cheapest 2Kw or 3Kw convector heaters with timer and a thermostat. Try Argos. (Where?) Just get a couple and see how you get on. About £30.00-£40.00, and they don't need to be oil-filled. They do need thermostats.

Remember they may not be on your cheap rate, though. Here, 3 hours of 3Kw on day rate is £0.39p per hour=£1.17. Compare that to your Storage heaters - check their rating too.

If you wall mount convectors, put the alu-foil insulator behind them from B&Q etc - it's got a polystyrene layer - attaches with paste or in my case double sided sticky pads.

Fix the draughts first.

Bon chance!
:T

orkneyviking

Thanks for the quick response; I now have a few more questions:

By fitting new windows, do you mean replacing both the glass and frame?

I would imagine the cost will be quite a bit for a three bedroom bungalow.

However, would it make more sense to invest in new windows & frames rather than secondary double glazing as a temporary fix?
(I have no DIY skills to bring down costs here..)

I will look again for grants, but I don't seem to fit in any of the applicable categories.

Can I fit a radio teleswitch to the meter myself? (Having no DIY ability)
And any recommendation on a suitable product?

If I fitted an air to air source heat pump in my loft, would that not draw the heat from the house?

Final question, I have fairly large storage heaters (~1m v 1.5m v 0.3m) x 3, how do I figure out how much electricity these specifically use?

I will have a look at the hot water storage tank, incase I am using the immersion to heat it. I know that I only have the top heating element turned on at the moment.


May thanks for all the extremely helpful advice.

paceinternet

The mention of a "stored water" or thermal store to power a wet heating system. Can you give some more info on the capacity of this type of system?
If you need an average of 19 kwh per day, you must be peaking at a minimum of 30kwh per day on the coldest days. Say, 6kw for 5 hrs? This is quite low compared with many gas fueled properties. But to store that in a water tank at a useful temperature may be impractical.

The term thermal store is also used for a buffer tank in a wet system that has multiple methods of heat input, often low temperature from solar, heat pumps and stoves. It doesn't really store any quantity of heat, but acts as way of blending the different temperatures into a useful output.

penrhyn

About 15 years ago when I lived in an all electric flat I replaced a very old Dimplex storage heater with a Creda TSR+ model.
The Dimplex used to keep all its heat to itself,the Creda was a great improvement.
It was economical for me to buy one as Creda were a GEC company and I was working for GPT at the time so could get a good discount.

The TSRs are fairly attractive and slimline, don't know who owns them now, most of the white goods were sold off to Indesit, prior to Lord (sweaty) George Simpson ( ennobled by Tony Bliar for flogging off Rover to BMW for £10) and his accountant Mayo ruining the company (bitter moi?)

O yes Radio Teleswitches are not a DIY job, you probably already have one with your present set up.
You should find a rating plate on your storage heaters somewhere, look for a wattage or Amperage figure.

Linky:-
http://www.credaheating.co.uk/

sarah_elton

Storage heaters aren't cheap to buy. I replaced the two in my flat which had both died. I had a large and a medium (the large sounds like the size of each of your three) and it cost about £800, so figure on around £1,500 for three large ones.

penrhyn

Don't know what you bought, but a 3.4Kwh Creda TSR costs around £400 inc VAT, expensive but not £800.

http://www.dealec.co.uk/acatalog/Creda_TSR_Sensor_Plus_Storage_Radiators.html

Fitting would be extra, you probably need a part P guy these days.

orkneyviking

My actions:

1. Alu-foil external heaters (cost £10's)

2. Get quotes for cavity and underfloor insulation (cost £100's)

3. Get quotes for replacing draughty windows and frames (cost £1000's)

4. Clarify whether my hot water tank is being heated by the immersion or the cheaper rated element

5. Confirm that my meter has radio teleswitch

6. Decide on best heating system:

a) Upgrade storage heaters (looks unlikely to pay back)

b) Replace storage heaters with convector heaters (as only need heat in evening)

c) Add an air to air source heat pump in the loft?

d) Change to a stored water and rads system (expensive)


Any advice on the above is welcome..

penrhyn

What about a wood burning stove, or is it peat in Orkney?

snafu_2

Yeah: wood burner. You could put the old window frames on it, too. :rotfl:

Replacement windows are just that. A man comes around, sizes up your wealth by looking at your car, then decides what surcharge to put on his commission. Get three quotes.

Some family run glazing companies, and there are a few, will let you buy and pay for a window at a time out of the quote, so you do one a month to spread the cost.
More air gap is better, and you'll need a FENSA certificate (google it) when the job is done.

GET THREE QUOTES

and check for grant eligability first, like Warmfront.

Sorry for shouting. :-)

Also don't rush into any of this. Take your time and consider the options. The wood burner could be a good idea too.

Viper_7

robsmum wrote: »

Just read your post aboutheating our hot water. We have storage heaters about the same age and agree they are expensive. We also have a big water tank with 2 controls. The top 1 is the emersion heater and heat during the day, the bottom is the Economy 7. Both should have controls them. .- but they have 2. Follow cable coming from tank and you will find . The second controls could be anywhere in house our are in the kitchen and on the wall, 2 socket like things together. Turn them both on and the 1 that glows during the day is your expensive emersion (top tank) TURN IT OFF. If we only have the big bottm tank on heated at night we have plenty of hot water always at a fraction of the cost.

I switched the cable over on mine - so the top immersion heater is on the low tariff.
tis only me here so plenty of hot water, and no matter how double insulated the cylinder is, a full tank is always going to lose more heat that just a partially full tank.

Made a big difference.