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Potterton Suprima 50 Lock Out problem

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  • Hi guys,

    Just moved in to a new house and it is fitted with a Potterton suprima 30 boiler and boilermate water tank. Having issues with the boiler and the tank. The first night here we couldnt believe how loud the boiler was and it seemed to be firing up every 20-30 mins for about a minute then shutting off. The boiler comes on, pilot light fires up, and the light on the panel goes green. Now i am sure the noise is a fan which needs replacing but thats not the main issue.

    Once the boiler shuts off after a minute or so the light on the panel switches to red and the pilot light goes out. I have the temperature dial on the boiler set to max. Question is, is this normal operation for this boiler?

    Now my boilermate tank is upstairs in the airing cupboard and provides us with plenty of hot water but despite how many times i set the manual time clock on the side of the tank the boiler still fires 24/7. The manual override switch is set to the time setting and i have entered the set times when i would like hot water but it seems to have a mind of its own.

    Can anyone help me out at all? Any advice would be gratefully appreciated.

    Thanks

    Ben
  • Hi all,

    Very informative thread. But I didn't quite see my problem.
    My Suprima was needing many resets at different times of the day. Most times it would come on in the morning (or evening), sometimes not. Sometimes it needed multiple resets.
    But now it does not come on at all. I have a steady red light and when power(mains) in first turned on and I get 4 or 5 clicks which match 4 or 5 lighting of the green light.

    I have checked PCB under magnification and do not see any visible faults. A year or 2 ago I did have to re-solder the ignitor but that's still good now. All other solder joints look good too and only mild signs or over heated PCB. Even still I did re-do the solder connections on the whole board.

    From what I have read I think I need to first check the ignition lead. I know there can be other reasons, and I would welcome to hear them. But before I open up again I am looking for confirmation (or not) on how to check the ignition lead. Is a simple continuity check good enough? What resistance is normal in this lead?

    Thanks for reading. And even greater thanks if you can help.
    Greeb
  • karl-123
    karl-123 Posts: 360 Forumite
    our kids got a suprima he bought a full boiler off e-bay
    for £10 :T plus £10 delivery ( 200 mile journey )

    he changed the gas valve, as his got power,but would not
    work, solenoid burnt out or stuck probably,

    second hand cookers are a bad idea :mad:

    but other parts
    are no different to any other thing
    people buy second hand computers out the newspaper
    full of dust, that are about to explode into flames :mad:
    and think nothing of it........:T
  • espresso
    espresso Posts: 16,448 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Ben1212 wrote: »
    Now my boilermate tank is upstairs in the airing cupboard and provides us with plenty of hot water but despite how many times i set the manual time clock on the side of the tank the boiler still fires 24/7. The manual override switch is set to the time setting and i have entered the set times when i would like hot water but it seems to have a mind of its own.

    The Boilermate is a 24/9 heatstore. The "manual time clock" is to program when the heating comes on and has no effect on the hot water. You need to search the net for a manual for your particular model.
    :doh: Blue text on this forum usually signifies hyperlinks, so click on them!..:wall:
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    Ben1212

    You need to understand a) how your system works and b) how the controls work. As Espresso has told you the boilermate is a thermal store (otherwise known as a sludge bucket). The coil inside still works as a heat exchanger but in the reverse way to a normal HW cylinder whiuch is what you seem to think it is. Your hot water is provided by cold water from mains passing through the coil and being delivered to you hot taps as hot water. Get yourself a manual and find out how it all works.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    Greeb

    Under what circumstances does it lock-out. HW on its own or CH on its own or both together?

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • keystone
    keystone Posts: 10,916 Forumite
    Mmmm - vanishing posts I see.

    Cheers
    The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits. - Einstein
  • gas4you
    gas4you Posts: 2,602 Forumite
    If the boiler won't reset for a while after locking out, then chances are it has cut out on overheat.

    If it resets straight away then it could be the infamous faulty pcb
  • gas4you wrote: »
    If the boiler won't reset for a while after locking out, then chances are it has cut out on overheat.
    If it does that, what next?
    I ask because mine has started doing that today. Same Suprima with a Boilermate II.
    It started with the boiler firing up for approx 10 seconds (green and amber light), then cutting out (amber light), then firing up again and cutting out. After a while only the red light kept flashing. When you press reset the whole process starts again.
    I switched both boiler and tank off thinking it would sort itself out - but to no avail.
    The boiler was serviced last August.
    Would I be looking to get someone to repair the boiler or someone to repair the tank?
    Many thanks.
  • Hi, I have a Potterton Suprima boiler at my flat with underfloor heating. Few months back, my circulating pump burnt out. The plumber replaced the pump and the flow switch. But after that intermittently my boiler light turns red. every few days. if i press reset it works. Now I would say it is happening more frequently, once every few days. Can you guys please help what could be the problem ? From what I hear it could be PCB. I will change it but want to be sure if thats the only problem.
    Anyway I can diagnose the problem myself before calling someone?

    Thanks
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