Waste pipe too high for new bath.

Canucklehead

GBY wrote: »

I'm in the process of installing a new bath, straight swap for the old one. However, due to the dimensions of the new bath the existing waste pipe needs to be lowered. It currently goes out the cavity wall where it is sealed in place. Basically the only option available is to create a new hole below the existing one and drop the pipe down, keeping a slight angle is possible.

Would I be better off hiring a suitable drill with diamond hole saw or could I drill smaller holes underneath and chip through? Also, what is the best way to fill the hole left where the pipe currently is?

Thanks.

Hi...a simple question with an easy solution seems to have become a bit complicated;)

...perhaps the OP will let us know how he/she gets on.

Corgi Guy

GBY

It's a terrace house with bathroom above the kitchen so it's brick cavity at that point. I'm happy to hire a drill if it will do the job quickly and more neatly. It will much cheaper than paying someon else to do it. Other half seems keen to get someone else in as she is missing her bath time!! I'm pretty good at most DIY, just good to know the options for this sort of job. The bit I'm not sure about is the best material to use to patch up the hole, due to location exterior vew is not a huge issue.

G.

GBY

Meant to say it needs to drop about 3 inches, it will be through the skirting then anyway, so couldn't go any further.

andyhop

hammer and chisel.....are you paid by the hour

tennement buildings in edinburgh are normally 36" deep

makita core drill and 50mm core is needed

speedy hire would do both for no more than £35 per day for diys

shown73

What about incorporating a srep up to the bath? Done properly, can look quite nifty.

dld2s

Core drill will look neater and be cheaper to hire in the long run, also, if you take your time into consideration making a hole with the hammer and chisel (and also thepain of maybe rapping your hand with the hammer :¬)) it would most likely work out dearer than the hire of a drill and corer

andrew-b

dld2s wrote: »

(and also thepain of maybe rapping your hand with the hammer :¬))

Done that a few times with 4lb club hammer :eek: - takes a good few days for the bruising to go down. I'd recommend getting a rubber grip with a collar around it to protect your hand. The grip slips over the handle of your chisel and costs a couple of quid from wickes (large or small) http://www.wickes.co.uk/Bolster-Chisels/Rubber-Grip-Large/invt/501627 .

Of course with the core drill you could still break your wrists if you don't use a drill with full clutch or arent careful how you use it! Equally you might get knocked over by a bus crossing the road though.....c'est la vie!

Andy

GBY

I've had another thought to solve the problem, if anyone is still reading this. Since the waste pipe drops straight into a hopper I could fit a trap nearer the wall where there is space and use a flexible waste pipe to attach the trap to the plug hole outlet. I would imagine I would need to be careful not to create a double trap but apart from that I can't see why that shouldn't work, unless I am missing something here. Be worth trying before drilling a hole through the wall.

Razor

I hope I'm wrong but it sounds like you are going to have the waste outlet lower than the waste pipe:eek:

Measure how far you need to drop it, stitch drill outside and bash a bigger hole inside, make good with sand and cement, job done 20 minutes, (including getting out ladders). You are using a shallow trap arnt you?

The hardest bit with DIY is getting started;)

GBY

No, there will still be enough of an angle to allow it to drain. I think after all I'll follow the sensible advice given here and drop the pipe. Yes, I do have a shallow trap.