Waste pipe too high for new bath.

I'm in the process of installing a new bath, straight swap for the old one. However, due to the dimensions of the new bath the existing waste pipe needs to be lowered. It currently goes out the cavity wall where it is sealed in place. Basically the only option available is to create a new hole below the existing one and drop the pipe down, keeping a slight angle is possible.

Would I be better off hiring a suitable drill with diamond hole saw or could I drill smaller holes underneath and chip through? Also, what is the best way to fill the hole left where the pipe currently is?

Thanks.
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Comments

  • ashcarrot
    ashcarrot Posts: 650 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Combo Breaker
    Can't you just raise the new bath by putting stuff(plywood whatever) under it ?
    Money, Money, Money ..... Banks/Casinos/Bookies give me all you money its a poor mans world....
  • GBY
    GBY Posts: 80 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    No, if I do that the side and end panels won't fit. There will be a gap.
  • Canucklehead
    Canucklehead Posts: 6,254 Forumite
    Hi

    Hammer and chisel . Make good with sand/cement.

    Corgi Guy.
    Ask to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)
  • GBY
    GBY Posts: 80 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    Thanks, GBY.
  • Inactive
    Inactive Posts: 14,509 Forumite
    Hi

    Hammer and chisel . Make good with sand/cement.

    Corgi Guy.


    Oh that is going to look really nice.:rolleyes:
  • Canucklehead
    Canucklehead Posts: 6,254 Forumite
    Inactive wrote: »
    Oh that is going to look really nice.:rolleyes:

    Hi..and your suggestion is...? OP could splash out on a core drill bit, appropriate drill and one of these but this is a money saving site after all.:D

    Corgi Guy
    Ask to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)
  • Inactive
    Inactive Posts: 14,509 Forumite
    Hi..and your suggestion is...? OP could splash out on a core drill bit, appropriate drill and one of these but this is a money saving site after all.:D

    Corgi Guy

    I would still sooner make a nice tidy job of it, it could avoid losing value on the property at the end of the day, so truly MSE.;)

    Drills can be hired.
  • Canucklehead
    Canucklehead Posts: 6,254 Forumite
    Hi

    Not sure which bit you have a problem with. The hammer/chisel or the sand /cement?

    What is your suggestion?

    Corgi Guy.

    Perhaps the OP could tell us how much lower the waste needs to be.?
    Ask to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)
  • cheekyweegit
    cheekyweegit Posts: 1,197 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    I had to have new bath raised by about 4 inches for drainage.

    I got round this or rather the tiler did, by putting a tile skirting on, as the rest of my walls were tiled to the floor and it looks fine with my bath panel sitting on top of the tiles. It doesn't look out of place at all.

    Hope this helps.
  • andrew-b
    andrew-b Posts: 2,413 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture
    To raise up the bath would mean building a solid base as a bath full of water plus the bather is pretty heavy. Also by raising the bath it then makes it more difficult to get in/out of.

    What sort of wall is it? Hammer and chisel wouldn't be so bad for the inner leaf which can be made good with mortar and covered up with plaster too if it's not hidden by the bath. But outside hammer and chisel on a brick outer wall might make a mess of it - depends how skilled you are with your bolster/cold chisel and condition of the bricks & mortar!

    You could drill a series of holes around the circumference of where the pipe will go (chalk it on the wall first) through the brick outer leaf (you'd need a decent 4" long or more masonry bit) and then knock out using a cold chisel and hammer in the centre. If you do it carefully enough and run a bead of sealant around the exit point of the pipe after then you'll barely notice. Match up the hole on the internal wall.. using your bolster/cold chisel, hammer and brute force, or use the same technique again and hope the holes match up (probably won't!). Matching up the holes between inner and outer walls would be the tricky bit and you might need to drill an explorartory hole or two. You don't have to have a diamond hole cutter...just it makes the job far easier/quicker/less messy and you won't get through a load of burnt out drill bits!

    I have a 12" drill bit that we've used with a standard corded hammer drill to drill through both leafs of the cavity wall in the past - you could use such a drill bit to drill a series of holes through both leafs of the wall rather than just the outer wall of my suggestion above.

    Andy
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