Electrical question - washine machine plug seized in socket

JimmyTheWig

shandypants5 wrote: »

:rotfl: nice artwork...

Thanks, I was chuffed with it.

No DONT do option 2.

That would mean the point where all 4 cables meet would be overloaded.

Agreed.

Option 3 would be the correct "circuit" but ideally you should run NEW cables from the places those 2 cables are fed from (ie the next 2 sockets allong the wall.)

I see your point. This would avoid having to hide the junction boxes in the wall.
But if you do this with new cables, where is the spur going to come from? Surely this will turn into option 4, with three new cables?

JimmyTheWig

P.S. I've got more than enough information to be getting on with this job, so do say if you're getting bored with the conversation...

shandypants5

I thought the spur would then come from the NEW socket?

So the electrical circuit would be the same as now, just the physical positions on the wall changed.

shandypants5

JimmyTheWig wrote: »

Am happy with multimeter. Presumably I'm looking for an AC potential difference between live and neutral within the one cable?

Yep.. I normally test every wire with my red test lead while my black is on a known earth.

That way I KNOW all the wires are live or dead before I touch them.

( I have seen some strange circuits where some wires go live when other circuits are switched off, and it hurts when you find them:rolleyes: )

JimmyTheWig

shandypants5 wrote: »

I thought the spur would then come from the NEW socket?

So the electrical circuit would be the same as now, just the physical positions on the wall changed.

Yes, so that's option 4.
Though I guess what you're saying is that options 3 and 4, from a circuit pov, are identical.

shandypants5

JimmyTheWig wrote: »

Yes, so that's option 4.
Though I guess what you're saying is that options 3 and 4, from a circuit pov, are identical.

Yep. electrically they are the same, but if you can do it without junction boxes then it would be "better".

How are you going to join the wires? (not chock block I hope)

If you REALLY want to relocate the socket, then I would use this method

1. fit another socket box in the wall next to or near the existing one.

2.one existing cable comes into origional socket from ring main
run A new cable from this up to your new socket.

3. another new cable down from new socket into the new box next to origional (this can be another socket or a proper junction box)

4. the other ring main cable connects here.

5. the boiler spur can be joined to ANY of these boxes where its easiest.

The main point is that no box should ever really have more than 3 cables in.

shandypants5

OR you could leave this lot as it is, and then make a NEW spur from a different socket on the ring main.
That way you would just need to run 1 cable to your new socket.

Depends where your sockets are located really.
You dont want too much decorating to do when your finished....

JimmyTheWig

shandypants5 wrote: »

How are you going to join the wires? (not chock block I hope)

I was planning on using what B&Q call a "connector strip". You know, the one where you break off however many you need. They come in a strip of about 10.
This could then be hidden under the floorboards.

It's what I used last time I had to sort out some lighting, but last time I was there noticed they had some 30A ones.

Ooh, just googled "chock block" and yes, that's the one.
What's wrong with these? What's a better way to join cables, other than fixing a box to the wall?

shandypants5

You should use something like this really. make sure its a 30a mains one though and not a 5A lighting circuit one.

Maplins sell them here.http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/50/jg33l.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.maplin.co.uk/searchtemplate.asp%3Fcriteria%3DMAINS%2520JUNCTION%2520BOX&h=34&w=50&sz=2&hl=en&start=12&um=1&usg=__Q4bhYkyu3DHmJkcJkrr0W_TCaEQ=&tbnid=M-MpalF6-LCyQM:&tbnh=34&tbnw=50&prev=/images%3Fq%3D%2522%2Bmains%2Bjunction%2B%2522%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG
BnQ will too I think..

If you DO use chock block you should put it inside some kind of electrical box/enclosure, so that if a connection comes loose, and it overheats at some point it doesnt set the floorboards alight..:eek:

Chock block is ok but its not as well insulated against fire, or people touching the terminals by accident.

(Ahem.... I have some chock block in my boiler cupboard wiring as a temporary measure.... its been there 5 years so far...:rolleyes: Shh.)

andrew-b

Having a junction box or similar in the same position as where the dodgy switch was may be no better as water could still drip on it. If anything it might be worse as water could possibly get into the connections inside more easily than a switch. As suggested already fixing any leaks is simpler!

I think you can use connector strips with a chocbox connector cover ( see http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Necessities_Index/Connector_Strips/index.html ) but you need to use suitably rated connector strip >= 30amp. As suggested by that product listing the latest IEEE wiring regs have requirements of ensuring no bare conductors and that the junction box is accessible- pretty much common sense though! Have a read of the article here for more detail: http://www.hager.co.uk/index.php?scr=800&id=3623

Hope that helps

Andy